自転車日本一周 1年目

天空のカントリーロード（re:日本一周#31）

31日目は福岡は、うきは市から走る

昨晩は、九州全体が初めて秋の空気に包まれたらしく、肌寒い夜風が強く吹いていた

高台に位置する道の駅うきはからは夜景も見えるけど、寒い風も吹き込んで来るので、この旅で初めて寝袋にくるまって寝て、

朝を迎えると雨が降っていた

雨雲レーダーを確認すると、1時間ほどで雨雲は去っていくっぽいので耐える

そして

すっかり晴れた7時。道の駅を出発

目指すは大分市だ。

31日目の道のり

まずは温泉の聖地 別府を目指すのだが、別府に辿り着くには90キロの道のりをほぼ登り続けるという九州山地横断をしなければならない

斜度はそうでもなさそうだが、90キロがほぼ登り坂というのはこれまた骨が折れそうだ

覚悟を決めて走り始めた

うきは市は大分との県境で、走り始めて30分ほどで大分県に入る

そして大分に入った瞬間に風景は山の中に入って、いよいよ九州山地越えが始まった

まずはゆるく40キロの登りを日田から天ヶ瀬まで走る

斜度はあまりなく、まだ余裕を持って天ヶ瀬まで辿り着いた

「これ意外といけるんじゃね？斜度もあんまり無いし！」

なんて余裕も出始めて、天ヶ瀬から次の玖珠町まで広い国道ではなくて距離をショートカットできる県道を選んで走り始める

しかし、ここからが本当の九州山地の始まりだった

この県道54号、本当に激坂で思わず足が止まる

ギアを軽くして登っても、重力と漕ぐ力が釣り合ってしまって、なかなか前に進まない

一番斜度があるところは立ったまま動けなくなってしまうくらいに

でもよく考えたらこの山道は当たり前だった

だってさ、ゆるい登りの国道を10キロ程度はショートカットできる県道なんて、その10キロ分登りがきついのは当たり前だし、そもそも県道のほうが通る人が少ないんだから、斜度とかが高いのは当たり前だから

「急がば回れ」ってまさにこのことだ

そうやって考えながら必死で登った

汗が目に入っても、もはや痛くないくらいには無我夢中で登った

そしてやっとの思いで54号を越える

54号を越えて、標高500メートルを越えると、美しい九州山地の姿が広がった

棚田と風車、山から吹き下ろす気持ちのいい風

汗をかいた身体を冷やしてくれる

標高500を超えると、またしばらくは山中のフラットな道のりになる。大体20キロほどは大した登りも無く、走りながら九州山地を楽しんだ

そして最後の峠、水分峠を登って、標高700mを越える。

水分峠からはいよいよ湯布院だ。

少し下って湯布院の町に入る

だが今回は湯布院はスルーだ

温泉も高そうだし、なによりもうすぐ別府の楽しみが待っていた

湯布院の町を抜けると、またしばらくは登り坂

次の別府に向けて走る

そしてここから絶景の高原道路は突然姿を見せた

それは別府に向けて山道を登っていた時

今まで鬱蒼としていた山道だったのに

突然道が開け始める

そして気づけば

あたり一面を草原が広がった

「え？ここ本当に日本？タイムスリップした？」

って思うくらいに突然に何もない高原に迷い込んだ感覚

青い空と風に揺れる草原しかないんだから、絶景もいいところだった

とにかく今目の前に広がっている絶景を信じられなくて、もう一度見渡してみる

名峰由布岳が見えた

やっぱりここは俺が走っている大分県に間違いなさそうだ

どこまでも草原が広がるから、ついついヨーロッパ、アルプスかなぁ？とかよくわからないことを考えてしまっていた

まばゆい緑が敷き詰められた高原のワインディングをひたすら走る

登り坂なんて全く気にならなかった

浮世離れした光景の中をふわふわした気持ちでいた

地球を感じながら走る

というかもはや宇宙なんじゃないかと思うほど何もなくて広大だった

車の影も人の影もない

地球と宇宙の区別ってなんだろう

地球だって、宇宙の中にあるんだから区別なんてしなくてもいいんじゃないか

そう考えると、とおい宇宙まで走って行ける気がした

フタコブラクダみたいな山が由布岳だ

このワインディングを走り続けたら本当に宇宙まで辿り着いちゃいそうな絶景でしょ？

そんな宇宙空間を1人で走ってたら、途中でロードに乗ってるおじさんと一緒になって現実に引き戻された

おじさんとは途中まで一緒に走って

途中の展望台で写真も撮ってもらった

展望台から見る湯布院の町を見ると、屋根の多くにブルーシートがかかっている

「あぁ、そうか。熊本地震の被害はここにもあったんだ」

初めて生々しい被害を見た

展望台も奥の方は崩落して入れずに、必死で復興を目指す人々の姿がみえる

でも、なぜかそんなに絶望する光景ではなかった。九州の方々の笑顔に触れて来たからかな

この人たちならきっと乗り越えていけそうだ

素直にそう思えるようなステキな方々に沢山会ってきたから

俺が今できることは、地震の被害を哀れむことでも、同情することでもなくて、被害によって観光客が減ってしまった九州が「こんなに安全で素敵なところなんだよ」ってみんなに分かってもらえるように身体を張って旅をすることだろう。そう思うと展望台からみえる町がやけに愛おしく感じた

展望台を抜けると、この天国みたいな美しい高原も終わりを迎える

よく考えたら不思議な話だ

埼玉から走り続けて、こんなに美しい風景の場所まで道は繋がってる

コンクリートジャングルも、高原も、海も、日本中全て繋がってる

道は繋がってるなんて当たり前のことだけど、こうやって実感するとすごく不思議で素敵なことだなぁと思った。カントリーロードを口ずさみながら、そんな不思議さを抱きしめる

カントリーロード
 この道ずっとゆけば
 あの街につづいてる 気がする
 カントリーロード
 ひとりぼっち おそれずに
 生きようと 夢みてた
 さみしさ 押し込めて
 強い自分を 守っていこ
 カントリーロード
 この道ずっとゆけば
 あの街につづいてる 気がする
 カントリーロード
 歩き疲れ たたずむと
 浮かんで来る ふるさとのまち
 丘を巻く坂の道
 そんな僕を叱っている
 カントリーロード
 この道ずっとゆけば
 あの街につづいてる 気がする
 どんなくじけそうなときだって
 けして涙はみせないで
 心なしか歩調がはやくなっていく
 思い出消すため
 カントリーロード この道
 ふるさとへつづいても
 僕は 行かないさ 行けない
 カントリーロード
 カントリーロード
 明日は いつもの僕さ
 帰りたい 帰れない
 さよなら
 カントリーロード

いつかウクレレでも弾きながら

ゆっくり歩きたい

そんな素敵な道だったなぁ

そしてヨコイシは九州山地横断をして、無事に別府の町へと降りて来た

別府の町に降りた瞬間、漂う硫黄の香りに引き寄せられるように辿り着いたのは、一番有名な「竹瓦温泉」という温泉

この由緒正しく風情あふれる外観は千と千尋の湯屋のモデルと言われたほどだ

なのに入浴料は100円

温泉県大分でもNo. 1の別府の中でもNo. 1なだけある

そしていざ入浴

この味が溢れる浴槽

シャワーなどはなく、体を洗うには桶で浴槽のお湯を救って洗う

お湯の温度は45度と激アツで、体が熱くなっても縁に座ってはいけないという、別府温泉特有のルールもある。

もし縁に座りようものなら、地元のおじさんからの叱責が飛び交うこと間違いない（知らずに俺がやったから間違いない）

そして山越えの疲れをゆっくり竹瓦温泉で癒した後は10キロ先の大分市街を目指して海沿いへ

山越えして来た山々を、改めて見ると達成感が湧いてくる

「こんな山を越えて来たんだ」

なんてちょっとした達成感を味わいながら、大分市街に辿り着く

今日は自分へのご褒美にネットカフェで眠った

走行距離 111キロ

福岡県うきは市→大分県大分市

総走行距離 3046キロ

今日もブログを見てくださりありがとうございます！最後に是非、下の日本一周自転車ボタンを押してブログランキングも応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周（自転車）へ


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