空になる(徒歩日本縦断#41)

41日目の今日は道の駅やまのうちで起床

トイレの裏というなかなか意味がわからないところで寝たけど人も来なくてぐっすり寝れた

そんな今日はいよいよ国道最高地点の標高2172m 渋峠に挑む

自転車ナビだから到達予想時間が早いだけ

今いる渋峠の麓、山ノ内町(標高590)から頂上までは26.4キロの妥協無き登り坂だ

しかもコンビニ一つない。明日の朝までの食料と水を積み込んだ重いバックパックを背負って本当に登り切れるのだろうか。未知の領域だからこその不安があった。だけどもうここまで来た時点で覚悟は決まっていた。目指すは頂上ただ一つ

朝の天気は薄曇りだったが、天気予報を見ている限り雨にはならなそうだったので午前8時。アタック開始だ。目標到達時刻は下山の時間も考慮して2時半。勝負の1日が始まった。

早速登り坂。まずは山ノ内市街を抜けていく

30分も登れば

一気に街を眼下に見下ろせるところまで来た

空も薄い青空が見えている。いい兆候だ

まだ軽い足を運んで、どんどん進む

本格的な九十九折やループ橋が始まったところで標高は1000mになる。

どんどん遠くなる街を見下ろしながら、不思議な気持ちになっていた。まるで自分がこれからいく世界が人も誰もいない宇宙のような、そんな気分だ。でもその感覚は間違っていない。今から誰よりも宇宙に近い場所まで行くんだから

なんて思ってたら、標高1200m頃には

霧が出始めて

1400m頃には視界が無くなった。

本当に宇宙みたいに何も見えなくさせなくてもいいのに…

正直1番辛かったのがこの標高1000から1500の間だ。勾配がきつくて足にきたのはもちろんのこと、濃霧で先が見えない怖さ。そしてまだまだ終わりの見えない永遠に続く九十九折に心が折れそうになる。

だけど歩き旅で一つ学んだことがある。

それは「全てを受け入れる」ということだ

暑さも、雨も、山も、風も、歩き旅というのは進むのが遅い分どうしても逃げ道がない時がある。そういう時に無駄にイライラしても、もうどうしようもないのだ。今この瞬間を乗り切るためには一回この状況全てを受け入れて、その上で打開策を考えつつ一歩ずつ前に進むしかない。

だから今回も全てを受け入れた。

霧がこの先頂上まで続いていても、ゴールが全く見えない九十九折が続いても、イラつかない、焦らない。大事なのは今この環境全てを受け入れて、その上で一歩一歩進んで、「無事に登り切る」ただそれだけだ。

この状況全てを受け入れた瞬間に、足取りも軽くなる。晴れたら晴れたで嬉しいし、このまま霧に包まれても良い経験になる。

そう思いながら

標高1500mを越えたあたりで、あんなに厚く立ち込めていた霧が晴れた。

神様からのご褒美だろうか。

正直疲弊が激しかった身体が一気に軽くなった

そして一気に青空が見え始める

標高1500から1700は勾配もそんなにきつくなくて、青空も見え始めた。まさにボーナスタイムだった。苦しかった記憶が全く無いほどに駆け抜けていった。

ただここから本当の試練が待っていた

それは標高1700から2000を超えるまで永遠に続く九十九折。勾配も九十九折も、最後の最後で追い討ちをかける勢いだ。しかも標高1700に行く時点で既に20キロ弱登り続けている体に最後の試練が待っていた

標高が高くなって息も切れていく


意思に反して足の動きがバラバラになっていく

それでも登り続ける。

自転車日本一周の時に群馬側からアタックしようとしたけど火山活動による通行止めでどうしてもこの憧れの地に辿り着けなかった。そんな悔しさが横石を動かす

標高2000を超えた時、今日1番の絶景が目の前に現れた。

高山植物の草原と横手山を駆け抜けるワインディングが目の前に広がる。

ちょうどこのアングルだけ霧もなく青空で、最後のご褒美だった。

この最後の九十九折を抜けてからは

雲の上を歩いているように錯覚させる断崖の道を残り2キロ歩く

目の前には大草原と雲海のような、まさにこの世のものとは思えない風景が広がった。

もう目指す頂点は目の前だった。

そして、午後2時

群馬県との県境を越えて

最後は今日1番の濃霧に包まれながらも、無事に憧れ続けた国道最高地点に到達。

やっと来れたという思いと、北海道の宗谷岬をスタートしてから、気づいたらこんなに遠くまで来ていたという気持ちが入り混じった。

一歩一歩は小さくても、その積み重ねは必ず大きな目標に辿り着く。当たり前だけど1番大切なことだろう。

そしてこの頂上にはスペシャルゲストが来てくれた

それは北海道の北の外れ、天塩で初めて会った同い年で日本一周しているライダーのゆーただ

天塩で初めて会ってから同じく北海道の新十津川の下徳富、それに月形キャンプ場で合流してくれたゆーたが、日本一周最終日の夜に横石を捕まえてきてくれたのだ。しかも国道最高地点で。

なんてロマンのある男だろうか。

もう言うことなんもねぇよ。ありがとよ。

今日はゆーたと2人で

なんとも風景のいい、標高1600mのキャンプ場で宴会だ。最後の宴会だ。

最高の夜にしような。

歩行距離 37キロ

長野県山ノ内町→群馬県中之条町→山ノ内町

総歩行距離 1364キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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