徒歩日本縦断

地獄の別れ道（徒歩日本縦断#46）

46日目の今日は道の駅風穴の里で起床

そんな乗鞍アタック2日目の今日は標高1300mの場所にある乗鞍高原中腹のキャンプ場までの19キロ。距離的には大したことないが朝から横石の身体は歩く気持ちにならなかった

完全にガスって時折ぱらつく雨のせいもあったが、それ以上に今日の道のりは日本でも屈指の危険度を誇るトンネル群が続く道のりを8キロも歩かなければいけなかったからだ。

どうしても歩き出す一歩が踏み出せない

怖い、寒い、濡れたくない

とりあえずテントを片付けてから朝8時まではぼーっとしてた

だけど流石にこれでは嫌なことを後回しにしているだけだ。「次に雨が止んだら絶対歩き出そう」そう決めて8時40分。小康状態になってきた空を半分睨みながら歩き出す

深い朝靄に包まれた梓湖はどこか不気味でどこか神秘的だ。

歩き始めて早々、猿たちが姿をあらわす。

自転車の時も十分怖かった猿だけど、歩きとなれば進むペースが遅い分猿との接近時間も長くなるわけで、怖い。まさか最初の難関が猿だったとは。

牙剥き出しで威嚇してくる猿を刺激しないようにそーっと歩きながら、

歩き始めて2キロほどで、これから8キロに渡って続くトンネル群に差し掛かる。

死なないための最大限の配慮をしようと、バックパックに反射材とヘッドライトを後ろ向きにくくりつけて、いざトンネルの中へ

一つ目のトンネルはそんなに怖くなかった

歩道もギリギリあったし、明るい

「なぁんだこんなもんか」

二つ目のトンネルも怖くはない

洞門からのトンネルパターンで明るいし道幅は広くもないが狭くもない。

正直油断した。

「あ、これならいけるわ」

そのままの勢いで三つ目

「おかしいな？歩道どこいった？」

「え？なんでこんなに暗いの」

「は？道幅狭すぎんだけど」

頭の中がいきなり変わるトンネルの厳しさにハテナマークでいっぱいになる。

どのくらい狭くなったかというと、歩行者がいなくてもトラックが通ると車同士すれ違えない時があって、トンネルの出入り口で渋滞が起きるくらい狭い。そこに突っ込んでいくイレギュラーな歩行者の怖さは容易に想像できるだろう

加えて路肩は

なぜか川のように湧き水が流れている区間がたくさんあって、迂闊に路肩に寄りすがることもできない。この真っ暗な中で足でも滑らせて転んでそこに車が通ったらそれこそお陀仏だ。（実際3.4回足滑らせてヒヤヒヤした）

そしてこの入山トンネルでは世にも珍しい物が見れる

トンネル内で道が分岐しているのだ。

横石は高山方面へ向かうから右へ。

ただこれがまためちゃくちゃ怖い。

右に向かうためには交通量の多いトンネルを渡らなければいけないのだが、迂闊に振り向いた瞬間トラックなどがきたら頭がアンパンマンみたいにパーンと飛んでいきそうで振り向いて確認することも怖い。

アンパンマンと違って、横石に交換する頭はない。

ちなみにトンネルは車が進入してきた瞬間、騒音が響くから車との距離感が分からなくなるので確認するためには振り向かなければいけないのだ。

なんとかトンネル内分岐をクリアしてホッと一安心

先ほどまでは不気味だった梓湖も、トンネルの怖さに比べれば眩い光だ。

そんな外の世界に安心するのもつかの間。

次は延長1キロの奈川トンネルへ

このトンネルは1番暗いトンネルだった

驚くなかれ、これは夜の写真ではなくてトンネル内の横石の目線の写真だ。

路側帯がどこにあるかもわからない。

みなさんは目を閉じて歩いたことがあるだろうか。好奇心でやったことがある人は多いと思うが、目を閉じて歩くと10歩ほど進んだ時点で言いようのない身体がフワフワした感覚と恐怖で進めなくなる。まるで永遠の闇をさまようようなあの感覚。それが1キロ続くと思ってもらって構わない。

それはもう地獄のトンネルだ。

自転車で通った時は高山側からで、しかも下りだったから怖かったがここまで怖くはなかった

松本側から通るとほとんどのトンネルが登り基調だし、必然的にトンネルにいる時間も長くなるのだ。

泣きそうになりながら奈川トンネルを抜けると、国道158号のトンネルも残り2個となる

ラスト一個手前の親子滝トンネルは1番長くて2キロ以上あったと思う

相変わらず暗いが、ここまで恐怖が続くと感覚が鈍ってくるのがまた怖い。もうそこまで「怖い」という感覚は無くなっていた。今になって思えば怖いという感覚は常に持っておくべきだったけど人間そこまで緊張感を持続させることは難しい。（8キロ、2時間に渡って死の恐怖と戦い続ける怖さ）

そして最後の前川渡トンネルを抜けるとすぐに

交通量の多い国道158号のトンネル地獄が終わって、いよいよ乗鞍に向かって県道84号に折れる。84号はまだ若干トンネルはあるが、その先でマイカー規制がかかっているために交通量は激減する。

やっと緊張の糸が解けた横石の気持ちは明日に向いた。

明日の乗鞍アタックが雨だったり、荒れていると、どうしようもないので天気を再確認しておこうと乗鞍の公式ページを確認（峠に挑む前はその一週間前くらいから常に天気予報をいくつものウェブサイトで確認して、不測の事態に備えて計画を何重にも練っている横石なのです）

明日は天気が回復するのは知っていたが

今日、まさかの乗鞍スカイライン（岐阜側から登るルート、長野側はエコーライン）は自転車通行止めになっていた。自転車ということは当然徒歩もダメだ。霧は霧だが、そこまで濃霧というわけでもないのになぜ！？そりゃ確かに標高2700mの世界を下界と比べるのは間違っているが、「なぜ通行止になっているか？どのくらいの濃霧、強風で通行止めになるのか？」きちんとした基準が分からないと明日晴れても登れないかもしれない。急いでスカイラインの管理事務所に電話確認。

帰ってきた回答はこうだ。

「霧に関しては視界10ー20もない濃霧が続くと通行止め。強風に関してはいくつかの観測点で風速10mを越えると通行止の可能性がある」

なんと厳しい規制条件だろうか。

標高2000を越える山岳道路ならばもはや当たり前の霧や強風ですぐに通行止になるらしい。

困った。だがこれはあくまで岐阜側の話。長野側のエコーラインなら規制条件が違うかもしれない。

一縷の望みをかけてエコーライン側にも電話確認。すると予想外の回答が返ってきた

「うちは今日も通行止めじゃないし、明日も大丈夫だと思いますよー！このくらいの霧や強風じゃ通行止めにはなりませんよー」

スカイラインと違ってなんて緩い回答だろうか

管轄が違うだけで密接に接しているこの二つの山岳道路の規制条件がこんなに違うとは。

どうやらスカイラインは過去に事故などがあり規制が厳しいらしい。

なのでスカイライン側からは登れなくてもエコーライン側からなら登れる。なんてことが頻繁にあるという。これはこれから日本一の道路に挑もうとする、全自転車乗りに聞いてほしいくらいの話だ。ただエコーライン側から登ると地獄のトンネルが待っているので、トンネルまでは車に自転車を積んで、乗鞍高原からアタックすることをオススメするが…

とりあえずこれ以外にも観光センターなど、様々な関係各所に電話をして確認した結果、明日エコーラインからだったら相当天気が崩れない限り登れるようだ。はぁ、一安心…

せっかくここまで徒歩で地道に来たのに登れないなんて泣いても泣けない話だ。

そんな情報をかき集めながら歩いていたら

気づけばトンネル群が終わってからの本格的な登り道も登って、標高1300mまで来ていた。今日の目的地のキャンプ場まですぐだったので、まずは腹ごしらえといこう

乗鞍高原は多数の飲食店やペンションが立ち並ぶ観光地なのでご飯に困ることはない。

いい雰囲気のアビーロードというカフェ？にお邪魔した

千円でピラフカレーとサラダを頼んだが、量が千円のそれではないくらいの大盛りだ。

味も大満足。

夜はやっていない店が多いので、午後1時半の遅めの昼飯でこの量は本当に助かった

2日前大量に買い込んだ補給食やリンゴも、残りわずかになっていたので明日のアタックのために少しでも残しておかなければならなかったから、本当に助かる。

そしてキャンプ場の受付へ

美鈴荘という温泉宿が運営しているキャンプ場らしく、せっかくなのでキャンプを張る前に日帰り入浴することにした。トンネルでススだらけになった汚れを落とせるのは本当にありがたい

北アルプスらしい硫黄成分たっぷりの火山温泉だ。淡い水色をした白色の温泉は硫黄で芯から温まる。

そしてしばらくは休憩所でダラダラして、17時にキャンプ場へ

宿から少し離れた綺麗な川沿いのこじんまりしたキャンプ場…

って、誰もいないやないかい！

毎度のことながら今日もクマに怯えながら眠ることになりそうだ。ただ、明日はいよいよ日本一の峠にアタックするので早めに寝よう。どうか獣の気配がしませんように…

歩行距離 19キロ

長野県松本市

総歩行距離 1525キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


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