54日目の今日は道の駅柳津で起床

岐阜市街から7キロしか離れていなくて、ベッドタウンの中にある小さな道の駅で、「絶対寝れないやん…」なんて思ってたら意外や意外。割と静かで普通に寝れた。
そんな今日はいよいよ滋賀県に入って、琵琶湖岸にある道の駅までの47キロ。ロングコースになるので5時に起きて5時半には出発した。
最近は日暮れが早いので、なるべく早めにスタートしたかったのだ。

朝日が昇る前に歩くのは久しぶりだ
凛とした空気を吸い込みながらひたすら西へ

6時を過ぎると日が昇ってくる
今日はこれから日暮れまで、長い道のりになりそうだ
まぁ歩き始めはもちろん元気満タンなので、ルンルンで歩いている横石

長良大橋を越えている途中に、城を見つける
「墨俣城」歴史好きには有名な城だ。織田家が斎藤家を攻略するための拠点として、秀吉が敵の目を掻い潜って材料を川から流して一夜で作ったと言われる伝説の城。朝からテンションが上がるではないか。

そして次の橋を渡って大垣市に入る。
スタートから5キロほどでもう大垣市だ
やっぱりある程度の都会になると小刻みに街が変わってくれるので、歩きがいがあるというか、歩くリズムが生まれていく。
大垣で朝ごはんを済ませる。
そこそこ都会の大垣は鉄道好きには馴染みの土地で(横石は鉄道もそれなりに好き)ムーンライトながらの発着地であり、青春18切符の季節には大垣からの電車の着席をめぐる、名物「大垣ダッシュ」が毎日起こっている。横石も持ち前の足を駆使して今まで青春18切符の旅で3回大垣ダッシュに参加した笑
そんな、謎に感慨深い大垣を後にして一路関ヶ原を目指していく。
大垣に着いた時点で朝の8時。8時までに12キロ稼げたので、まぁまぁの余裕を持ってこの先歩くことが出来そうだ。
なんてったって今日は47キロだし、この後は関ヶ原も含めて見所満載だし、余裕があるのに越したことはない。

河原には綺麗な曼珠沙華が咲き乱れ、秋の風が吹いている。
今日は暑くなってはいるが、やはり秋なのであまりきつくない、柔らかな暑さだ。

大垣の次の町、垂井は戦国1の智将だと勝手に横石が思ってる竹中半兵衛出生の地らしい。ほんとに岐阜は通る町それぞれに男心をくすぐる歴史ロマンが詰まっている
そして大垣から10キロほど進んで関ヶ原に入る

カントリーサインからして武将感を全面に打ち出しているのが流石だ
関ヶ原に入ってからはもう、天下分け目の戦い一色の町となった

町全体に関ヶ原の戦いの時は各武将が布陣していたらしい。昔ここでは確かに天下分け目の戦いが行われていたことを知る

ということで流石に全部回れるわけではないが、道中にあった徳川家康の陣である桃配山に登る

「ここに確かに天下人がいた」
鳥肌モノだ。家康はここから関ヶ原を見下ろして戦況を見守っていたのだ。

ちなみに関ヶ原は町並みも風情のある素敵な町なので、歴史好きな人は間違いなく訪れたほうがいい。

色んな武将の陣地が至る所にあるので、好きな武将の陣地に行ってみるのもまたロマンだろう(ちなみに横石が一番好きな武将は立花道雪なんだけど、関ヶ原の戦いの時にはすでに亡くなっている笑)

今日は名峰伊吹山もしっかり見えて、それはそれはアルキニストにはたまらない気候。今回は登れなかったけどいつか登りたいなぁ近畿最高峰。
そんな関ヶ原を越え、峠を越えるといよいよ滋賀県に入る

近畿地方にいよいよ入るぜー!!
新潟からの長野、岐阜は全部が本当に広かった。県をこうやって越えるにもいくつもの山を越えなければいけない超難所だったけど(まぁほとんど好きでそれに挑んだようなもんだけど)無事にクリアしていよいよ近畿というわけなのです!!
ここまで32キロ歩いて時刻は午後2時過ぎ。なかなかいいペースだけど、足も疲れてきたので滋賀に入ってから最初のコンビニで長めの休憩を入れる。

そのあとは中山道をひたすら西へ、一直線に琵琶湖を目指す。
横石的に今まで山ばかりで、1ヶ月ほど広い海のような風景を見てなかったので、今日はどうしても日暮れ前までに琵琶湖に辿り着いて、その雄大な景色を拝みたかったのだ。
かといって無理は禁物。
なるべく無理のないペースで適度に休憩を入れつつ琵琶湖(今日の目的地)まで残り6キロのところに来た。時刻は午後4時半。6時にはほぼ真っ暗になるので本当にギリギリだ。
夜ご飯も途中買わなければいけないことを考えたら、残り1時間で6キロ…
既に40キロ歩いている身体にムチ打って、ラストスパートの琵琶湖ダッシュは始まった。
ほぼ競歩のような早歩きでぐんぐん進む。
もはや今日歩いている中で一番足取りは軽かった。
それだけ「琵琶湖みたい!頼む!」の気持ちで横石は動いていたのだ。
残り1キロで6時のタイムリミットまで10分
ここからは1分経つごとに日が暮れていく
本当にギリギリのラインを攻め続けて歩き切った結果…

黄昏時、真っ暗になるギリギリの午後6時ちょうどに無事ゴーール!!
なんというか、感動した。
本当に1ヶ月ぶりの山とは違う雄大な風景。
思わずバックパックを投げ出して湖側までいって喜びを爆発させる
乗鞍以来の達成感に包まれた横石は、そのまま琵琶湖が真っ暗になるまで見守って、すぐそばの野宿地である道の駅へ

今日は近江母の郷というところで野宿するのだが、何か見覚えがある道の駅だった。
どうやら自転車日本一周の2年目で訪れていたみたいだ。次は歩きでここまでくるとは感慨深い…
ということで明日は滋賀県をひたすら南下していきます!明後日には京都に着く予定なのでお楽しみに!おいでやす!舞妓さん!
歩行距離 47キロ
岐阜県岐阜市→滋賀県米原市
総歩行距離 1785キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

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