お遍路の始まり(徒歩日本縦断#61)

徒歩日本縦断61日目の今日は徳島のホテルで起床。無事に台風も過ぎ去り、多少風は強いが朝から晴れ間が見える。

そんな今日はいよいよ四国八十八箇所のお遍路スタートだ。

これからの過酷な修行に備えて朝はホテルのバイキングで

朝ごはんとは思えない料理を並べてみた

もちろん残さず食べて、エネルギー満タン

そして朝7時半。

徳島駅をスタートだ。

まずは1番札所である霊山寺まで13キロ歩いて向かう。

駅を出てしばらく歩いて吉野川を渡り、

街中をのんびり歩くと

いよいよ1番札所の案内が出てきた

そして午前10時半に霊山寺に到着

まずは霊山寺にある販売所でお遍路に必要な服装や道具一式を揃える

金剛杖や白装束、納経帳に経本、納め札など、お店のおばちゃんと相談しながら一式を買い揃える。数珠に関してはおばちゃんに「お接待だよ」と言っていただき、無料で頂いてしまった(お接待とはお遍路さんに様々な差し入れや施しをすること。これをすることでお接待する側も徳を積めると言われる)

そして一式を揃えた横石はいよいよ俗世界と別れを告げ修行の道へと入るために1番札所、霊山寺の山門をくぐるのである

白装束は死に装束とも言われ、その昔四国お遍路の厳しい道のりは志半ばで野垂れ死ぬ人たちも多かったので、いつ死んでもいい覚悟のために着衣すると言われる。

金剛杖は「同行二人」といい、一人ではなく、常にお大師さま(弘法大師=空海)と二人で歩いているという意思だ。

ここから果てしない修行が始まるわけだが、大まかな道のりはこんな感じ

徳島は「発心の道場」と言われ、文字通り始まりの地だ。まずは1番から内陸に入っていき、12番札所の別名「遍路ころがし」の異名をとる山奥の札所焼山寺まで向かっていく。そこからまた海沿いに戻っていくのだ。

徳島の札所は23、総歩行距離は約220キロだ

まぁ解説は後々また入れていくとして

まず1番札所の門を一礼してくぐる

お遍路の参拝にはきちんとした作法があり、それをその通りにこなしていく

最初にもらった教本を読みながら、一つ一つぎこちなくこなす。

お経だって葬式以外で読むのはほぼ初めてだ。

周りの人に聞かれるのをどこか恥ずかしく思いながら、ついつい小声で数珠片手にお経を唱えていく。

納札もお経も本堂と大師堂の二ヶ所で行うので、一つ一つのお寺がなかなか時間がかかる

かといって納経帳だけ記してもらっては、スタンプラリーと一緒だし、せっかくやるならお経を唱えながらとことん「四国八十八箇所」を実践したかった。

人間誰しも最初は初心者。横石だって旅に関してはだいぶ色んなことをしてきたが、お遍路に関しては初心者なのでわからないことは恥を忍んでバンバン聞いた。

ただ一つ問題なのはお遍路初心者とは思えないくらい日焼けしていて、「逆打ち(88番から逆に回ること)してきたんですか?」ってかなりの人に言われることだった。その流れで「いや、今日始めたばっかです」とはなかなか言いにくい世の中である。

そんなぎこちなさもありながら、無事に1番札所の参拝をやり切り(なんだかんだ買い物の時間も合わせたら1時間以上いた)

2番札所へ向かう

2番極楽寺は1.2キロしか離れていなかったのですぐに到着

極楽寺でもまだまだぎこちない参拝を30分ほどかけて済ませて、3番金泉寺へ

歩きお遍路の道は

こういう風にきちんと道しるべがあるので迷うことはほとんどない。

この親切さも四国の方々のお接待なのだろう

3番金泉寺も3キロほどしか離れていないのですぐに到着。

ここら辺までは札所間が本当に近いので、車でお遍路を始めた方とも毎回会って挨拶を交わしていた。その度に「早いなぁ」と言われるが、車は信号待ちもあるし、駐車場に入れる時間もあるので、歩きが追いつくのは当然くらいの距離感だ。

そして4番大日寺へ

大日寺へは3番金泉寺から5.3キロ。

歩きお遍路ならではの舗装されていない昔からの遍路道を進んでいく。

何百年も前から人々はこの道を通って巡礼をしていたのだ。

そして今回横石は一回もスマホの地図を使わずに、紙の地図だけでこのお遍路をやりきることにした。紙だとまだまだ不安感もあるが、それ以上にその不安感が冒険心を呼び覚ます。

気づくとなかなかの眺望。

こうやって森の中を抜けた時に見える眺望がたまらない。

そしてなかなか珍しい光景も

ツアーには珍しく「外国人が案内する歩きお遍路ツアー」なるものをやっているらしく、クソ狭い獣道のような場所で奇跡の大渋滞が起きていた。ちなみにこのツアーの方々は少し遠い4番を飛ばして5番に行くらしいので、この渋滞はすぐに終わって道が別々になった。色んな方に「頑張って!!」や徒歩日本縦断の看板を見て「写真撮らせて!」なんて言われて少しくすぐったかったけど嫌な気分ではないなぁ。ツアーは歩くのもゆっくりだし、またどこかですぐに追いつくだろう。

そして山道を5キロ進み

4番大日寺へ

だいぶ参拝手順にも慣れてきたし、お経を唱える恥ずかしさもなくなってきた。

なによりお寺に入るごとに広がる日本ならではの趣溢れる文化的な景観も楽しめるようになってくる

普段の旅は10キロごとに休憩くらいなので、こうやって札所間の距離が近いと、その都度止まって、参拝もして、と体力はまだ残っているのにそこに15分-30分も留まって前に進めない気持ちが少し歯痒い気持ちもあったけど、段々とそんな気持ちも浄化してきて、純粋に様々な日本の文化を回るお遍路の醍醐味が見えてきた気がした。巡礼もまた「前に進む」という行為なのだ。

そして次の5番地蔵寺までは1.5キロ

この時点で午後3時になっていた。

納経時間は午後5時までなので、「そろそろ野宿先を決めなきゃと」地蔵寺の人に相談に乗ってもらい、今日は7番札所まで進んで、7番と8番の間の公園で野宿することにした。

このまま参拝を端折って歩けば8番までも5時までに辿り着けるけど、お遍路を始めてまで急ぎたくはなかった。ゆっくり色んなお寺の色を見ていたかったのだ。

そして地蔵寺の大イチョウの下で休んでいた時。目の前を見とれてしまうほどに美人な外人さんが白装束にバックパックを背負って颯爽と通り過ぎた。

実はこの人、1番札所から歩き始めたタイミングがほぼ一緒で、会うたびに軽く会釈をしていたのだ。多分同い年くらいの本当に綺麗な人だ

ただ少し疲れているみたいで、木陰で休む横石の隣に腰を下ろしてきた。

そこでまた微笑みかけてきたので、思い切って話しかけてみると、どうやらデンマークから来たらしい。しかも歩きお遍路を一人でするのだそう…荷物は少ないので多分野宿ではないけど、それにしてもすごい。

今日は疲れたのでもうここらへんで終わりと言っていたので、横石とはもう会わないだろう。たとえ横石も今日ここで休んでいたとしても。そもそも北海道からここまで2000キロほど歩いてきた横石の歩く距離、スピードは普通の歩き遍路の人とはもはや違うので、追いつくことはあれど、共に歩くことも、追い越されることもないのだ。

緑色の綺麗な目だった

「Good luck」

そう別れを告げて歩きだす。

と、なんとなく小説っぽくカッコつけて書いてはみたけど

向こうからしたらこんな真っ黒な日本人どうも思ってないと思う。笑

そんな地蔵寺を後にして6番安楽寺へ6キロほど歩く

道中にはこうやって沢山の休憩所が用意されていて、本当に四国の方々の優しさが垣間見えてくる。横石も少し休憩しよう。

1番から10番までは距離がそれぞれ短いので、時間が過ぎるのもあっという間に感じる。気づけば3時半だもん。

そして安楽寺へ

安楽寺であの外国の方率いる歩きツアーの人たちに追いついて盛大な歓迎を受ける。多分30人くらいはいたと思うけど、よく卒業式で先輩を送り出す時にやる、手のアーチ並みに歓迎されてしまった笑

この安楽寺から今日最後の札所十楽寺までは1.2キロしかない

午後4時半に十楽寺に到着

実質午後から始まった四国お遍路ではあるが、こうして半日回ってみて、やはり参拝の時間がある分、普通の旅路より歩く距離は短くなる。だけども時間もあっという間に感じる。これはまだ札所間の距離が短いからだろう。長いところでは札所間の距離が90キロにもなる。そうなった時に横石がどう思っているかは分からないが、初日は半分地に足がついていないようなふわふわした感覚で終わった。

ようやく少しだけお遍路が始まった実感が湧いてきた感じだ。

そして夕暮れの中

今日の野宿予定地である公園に向かう

明日はいよいよ最初の難所、遍路ころがしの異名を持つ山奥の秘境焼山寺へと向かう。

遂に四国の大自然に牙を剥かれるのかな。と思いながらもそんな過酷な道を楽しみにしている今の横石なのであった。それではまた明日

歩行距離 35キロ

徳島県徳島市→徳島県阿波市

総歩行距離 1973キロ

お遍路歩行距離 22キロ

1番霊山寺→2番極楽寺→3番金泉寺→4番大日寺→5番地蔵寺→6番安楽寺→7番十楽寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加してるのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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  • Scotland is certainly a really attractive nation, as well as annually it is actually seen by groups of travelers from the United States, France, and even Italy or Spain. However, I can certainly not withstand the perception that Poles happen listed below primarily for work. Hardly any individual taking leave in July, August or even September will definitely think about Scotland. Due to the fact that of the prices that are definitely antagonistic for some tourists, possibly it is. On the other hand, the property of Nessi and guys in kilts is actually most definitely worth a short or even lengthy quest. Perhaps it is great to believe about it now, when the value of the extra pound is dropping, and also thereby our company will pay out a lot less for a holiday in Scotland? Glen Affric in early spring season Why is it worth it? Scotland is predominantly a splendid garden in the north of the nation. In Scotland, I have actually presently been actually able to enjoy seals, dolphins or even deer. Scotland is actually also a traditionally intriguing property (who viewed Brave Heart?), Where you can see splendid rock palaces (Edinburgh, Stirling, Linlithgow, Eilean Donan). 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Edinburgh – Some suggestions for checking out Scotland Trip in Scotland must most definitely begin along with its own resources. Edinburgh is a lovely medieval a city with characteristic rock properties. Coming from the primary street, the alleged The Royal Mile hooking up the previous imperial fortress with the Queen’s summertime royal residence (Palace of Holyroodhouse) runs a system of fascinating tiny streets (the supposed close), generating a maze through which it is actually really worth receiving dropped. It takes around pair of days to go to Edinburgh, but you can extend this time around as much as 4. In the case of a quick see to Scotland, you can likewise restrict yourself to Edinburgh only, devoting one day on a circular trip through bus in the Scottish plateaus (nearly every trip company in the capital delivers it). In this way, a minimum of momentarily our experts are going to experience the atmosphere of a genuine property of hazes. An also far better idea is to lease a vehicle for someday and happen an independent excursion (the course and attributes of the coordinated excursions perform certainly not always satisfy everybody). Such a self-guided scenic tour will possibly take our company at the very least 10 hrs. For a slightly longer trip (albeit still restricted to a few days) from Edinburgh, I will suggest to strike in two instructions: Isle of Arran or even Loch Lomond. Arran is called Scotland in miniature. Investing two or even three times on the isle, we may appreciate the appeal of the west shore, loosen up on the seashore, climb the best top of the isle– Goat Fell, along with admire the grassy mountains and also take pleasure in the space. Loch Lomond is among Scotland’s pair of national parks, a gorgeous pond surrounded through hills as well as rainforests. On the technique, you can likewise explore Stirling Castle. There is actually a direct train coming from Glasgow in both paths. nation Scotland, scottish Scotland, application Scotland, conservative Scotland, relevant information Scotland, scotland Scotland, our team Scotland, edinburgh Scotland, little one Scotland, cult Scotland, map Scotland, iona Scotland, menu Scotland, trip Scotland, information Scotland, background Scotland, cars and truck Scotland, ship Scotland, uk Scotland, train Scotland, celtic Scotland, glasgow Scotland, shetland Scotland, culture Scotland, tay Scotland, bus Scotland, headlines Scotland, education Scotland, bit Scotland, navigation Scotland, cookie Scotland, covid Scotland, sporting activity Scotland, availability Scotland, video recordings Scotland, highland games Scotland, area Scotland, golf Scotland, scots Scotland, meals Scotland, whisky Scotland, budget Scotland, visitscotland Scotland, gallery Scotland, bulletin Scotland, arbroath Scotland, heck Scotland, roadway Scotland, distilleries Scotland, st andrews Scotland, drink Scotland, see scotland Scotland, europe Scotland, castles Scotland, future Scotland, encounter Scotland, blog site Scotland, dundee Scotland, steering Scotland, sports Scotland, covid-Scotland9 Scotland, transport Scotland. Low Budget Travel? Scotland, like the entire of Great Britain, is not one of the most inexpensive locations. Nevertheless, you can easily find a great deal of treking trails and campsites here. Additionally, in Scotland the tent may be set up practically anywhere, so travelers may likewise rest in the wild. What is vital within this case is actually global accessibility to clean water– our experts can locate mountain range falls, streams as well as streams practically anywhere. The best renowned and also some of the absolute most attractive hiking routes in Europe is the so-called West Highland Way. As a result of the outstanding views, I enthusiastically encourage Longer journey? Just how around north along the west coastline as well as at that point back to the quieter, albeit a lot less amazing eastern? Numerous tourists in Glasgow, takes a learn to Mallaig (sometimes going to Glencoe or even Fort William en route) after that check outs Isle of Skye (the absolute most wonderful of the Scottish islands), then head along the shoreline towards Ullapool, as for Durness, heading back seeing Inverness, Fort Augustus (Loch Ness), Aberdeen and also Cairngorms National Park, and ultimately St Andrews. Is it feasible by buses as well as trains? Certainly it is possible, yet you are going to miss a lot, so it is better to rent a vehicle for a minimum of component of the vacation. And don’t be actually tricked due to the traveler catch of Loch Ness– as a matter of fact, there are actually lots of much even more stunning places all around Scotland country Scotland, scottish Scotland, application Scotland, tory Scotland, details Scotland, scotland Scotland, our team Scotland, edinburgh Scotland, youngster Scotland, creed Scotland, map Scotland, iona Scotland, menu Scotland, travel Scotland, information Scotland, past Scotland, automobile Scotland, ship Scotland, uk Scotland, train Scotland, celtic Scotland, glasgow Scotland, shetland Scotland, society Scotland, tay Scotland, bus Scotland, news Scotland, education Scotland, bit Scotland, navigating Scotland, biscuit Scotland, covid Scotland, sport Scotland, accessibility Scotland, online videos Scotland, highland video games Scotland, community Scotland, golf Scotland, scots Scotland, food items Scotland, whisky Scotland, spending plan Scotland, visitscotland Scotland, gallery Scotland, bulletin Scotland, arbroath Scotland, heck Scotland, roadway Scotland, distilleries Scotland, st andrews Scotland, cocktail Scotland, go to scotland Scotland, europe Scotland, castles Scotland, potential Scotland, take in Scotland, blog post Scotland, dundee Scotland, steering Scotland, sports Scotland, transport Scotland Glenelg The climate could be unpredictable. 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In the situation of a low-budget vacation, rest in a tent or stay merely in hotels (cost regarding PLN 80 per evening)., Whiskey, visit at minimum one whiskey as well as instruction fish and chips with white vinegar at minimum once. I hope that through this post I encouraged my buddies (:-RRB-) yet likewise unfamiliar people to journey to Scotland. It’s really worth a hundred opportunities! I invite you to see, so I am actually still below. Attractive Scottish coastlines. Loch Lomond Backpack. Iona- very small isle, white seashores. Island of Skye. Glencoe. Eilean Donan Castle. Island of Arran. Scotland is actually definitely a truly gorgeous country, and also every year it is visited by groups of vacationers from the United States, France, and even Italy or Spain. Arran is actually contacted Scotland in miniature. Scotland, like the entire of Great Britain, is actually not one of the most inexpensive destinations. 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  • Scotland is definitely a really attractive country, as well as each year it is actually explored through groups of travelers from the United States, France, and even Italy or even Spain. I can easily not stand up to the feeling that Poles come listed below primarily for work. Hardly anyone departing in July, August or September are going to think about Scotland. Possibly it is due to the costs that are actually most definitely unfriendly for some visitors. At the same time, the land of Nessi and guys in kilts is absolutely worth a short or longer adventure. Perhaps it is actually excellent to consider it today, when the market value of the extra pound is dropping, and also thereby our experts will pay less for a holiday in Scotland? Glen Affric in very early springtime Why is it worth it? Scotland is actually mainly a terrific yard in the north of the nation. 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The resources itself, the marvelous Edinburgh, likewise ought to have attention, especially during the course of the summertime celebrations. country Scotland, scottish Scotland, app Scotland, tory Scotland, details Scotland, scotland Scotland, our team Scotland, edinburgh Scotland, youngster Scotland, creed Scotland, map Scotland, iona Scotland, food selection Scotland, trip Scotland, records Scotland, past history Scotland, car Scotland, ship Scotland, uk Scotland, train Scotland, celtic Scotland, glasgow Scotland, shetland Scotland, lifestyle Scotland, tay Scotland, bus Scotland, information Scotland, learning Scotland, little Scotland, navigation Scotland, biscuit Scotland, covid Scotland, sport Scotland, access Scotland, online videos Scotland, highland games Scotland, area Scotland, golf Scotland, scots Scotland, food Scotland, whisky Scotland, budget plan Scotland, visitscotland Scotland, gallery Scotland, email list Scotland, arbroath Scotland, hell Scotland, road Scotland, distilleries Scotland, street andrews Scotland, beverage Scotland, see scotland Scotland, europe Scotland, castles Scotland, potential Scotland, experience Scotland, weblog Scotland, dundee Scotland, steering Scotland, sports Scotland, covid-Scotland9 Scotland, transportation Scotland. Edinburgh – Some concepts for checking out Scotland Traveling in Scotland need to certainly begin along with its financing. Edinburgh is a wonderful medieval a town with characteristic rock buildings. From the major street, the alleged The Royal Mile hooking up the past royal castle along with the Queen’s summertime palace (Palace of Holyroodhouse) runs a network of intriguing little roads (the alleged shut), creating a puzzle in which it is actually really worth acquiring shed. It takes approximately two times to check out Edinburgh, yet you may expand this moment as much as four. When it comes to a short visit to Scotland, you can also confine yourself to Edinburgh just, devoting 1 day on a big salami by bus in the Scottish highlands (nearly every traveling company in the funding delivers it). Thus, at minimum momentarily our team will really feel the setting of an actual land of hazes. An also far better concept is to lease an automobile for one day as well as happen a private journey (the program as well as attribute of the managed excursions carry out not always match everybody). Such a self-guided excursion will probably take our company a minimum of ten hrs. For a slightly longer journey (albeit still confined to a few times) coming from Edinburgh, I will advise to attack in two directions: Isle of Arran or even Loch Lomond. Arran is phoned Scotland in miniature. Devoting pair of or three times on the island, our experts may take pleasure in the charm of the west shore, kick back on the seashore, climb the best peak of the isle– Goat Fell, and also admire the grassy hillsides and delight in the area. Loch Lomond is actually one of Scotland’s 2 national forests, a stunning lake neighbored through hillsides and woods. On the means, you can easily additionally visit Stirling Castle. There is actually a straight learn from Glasgow in both directions. country Scotland, scottish Scotland, application Scotland, conservative Scotland, information Scotland, scotland Scotland, our company Scotland, edinburgh Scotland, little one Scotland, cult Scotland, chart Scotland, iona Scotland, menu Scotland, travel Scotland, records Scotland, history Scotland, vehicle Scotland, ship Scotland, uk Scotland, learn Scotland, celtic Scotland, glasgow Scotland, shetland Scotland, culture Scotland, tay Scotland, bus Scotland, information Scotland, education and learning Scotland, little Scotland, navigating Scotland, biscuit Scotland, covid Scotland, sporting activity Scotland, access Scotland, videos Scotland, highland activities Scotland, community Scotland, golf Scotland, scots Scotland, food items Scotland, whisky Scotland, budget Scotland, visitscotland Scotland, gallery Scotland, newsletter Scotland, arbroath Scotland, heck Scotland, street Scotland, distilleries Scotland, st andrews Scotland, alcoholic beverage Scotland, visit scotland Scotland, europe Scotland, castles Scotland, future Scotland, experience Scotland, blog post Scotland, dundee Scotland, driving Scotland, sports Scotland, covid-Scotland9 Scotland, transportation Scotland. 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Many travelers in Glasgow, takes a train to Mallaig (sometimes checking out Glencoe or Fort William en route) after that sees Isle of Skye (the best gorgeous of the Scottish islands), at that point head along the shoreline towards Ullapool, as much as Durness, heading back visiting Inverness, Fort Augustus (Loch Ness), Aberdeen and Cairngorms National Park, and also finally Street Andrews. Is it feasible through learns and buses? Obviously it is possible, yet you will definitely skip a great deal, so it is actually considerably far better to rent a cars and truck for at least component of the travel. 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