徒歩日本縦断

最初にして最大の難関（徒歩日本縦断#62）

62日目でお遍路2日目の今日は阿波市の土成中央公園で起床

国道沿いにあるめちゃくちゃちっちゃい公園だったから色々心配だったけど、予想以上に静かでしっかり寝れた。

そんな今日は8番札所から12番札所まで。

そして最後待ち構える12番札所は最初にして歩きお遍路最大の難関と言われる焼山寺である

土成中央公園から8番熊谷寺までは2キロほど。お寺の納経所は7時からなので、それに合わせて7時ちょっと前に歩きだす。

2キロなんて文字通り朝飯前なので、速攻で到着

厳格さ漂う雰囲気のお寺だ

お経がどこからか流れてくる気持ちいい朝に参拝とはなんとも粋なもんだ。

ということで熊谷寺の次は2.5キロ離れた9番法輪寺へ

まだ朝の清々しい空気を吸い込みながら歩いて

難なく辿り着く。

8時過ぎになって参拝客も増えてきて、それぞれと挨拶を交わしながら参拝、納経と済ませて法輪寺を後にする

次の10番切幡寺までは4キロ

「ま、次も余裕でしょ〜」

なんて思いながら鼻歌交じりで歩く

今日は夏と勘違いしてしまうほどに緑と青が良く映えた秋空だ。前を行く歩き遍路の人に追いつき、少し話して追い越して、切幡寺へ

そして、切幡寺では本堂にたどり着くまでにまさかの階段333段攻撃が待っていた

「これから大本命の焼山寺なのに…体力消耗したくない…」なんて思いながらも登るしかない

階段はある意味一番足にくる。

一歩一歩ゆっくり進んで、多少の汗をかきながらも本堂へ

参拝を終えて下に戻ると

商店の方からお接待を頂いた

ちなみにお遍路ではお接待を頂いたら「南無大師金剛遍照」と三回唱えて自分の札を渡すのが礼儀だ。最初は恥ずかしかったけどせっかくなので横石もそんな儀式をこなして、次の11番藤井寺へ向かう。

藤井寺まではここから約10キロ

初めて札所間の距離がそこそこ空くことになる

というか多分札所10番まではビギナーズラック的な優しさがあるのだろう。本番はここからだと言わんばかりに藤井寺まで10キロ歩くことに

といっても横石としてはむしろ札所間の距離はこれくらい空いてた方が歩きやすい。なんてったって徒歩日本縦断は基本ロングウォークなのだから。

新しく出来たらしい遍路小屋の空海庵で靴ずれ防止のため蒸れた靴を脱ぎながら五分ほど休暇を挟んで藤井寺へ向かう

藤井寺へ向かう道中はいよいよ四国らしい自然が広がる

広大な緑の真ん中を1人歩いていくと

目の前には吉野川にかかる沈下橋が現れる

沈下橋は、わざと橋を低くかけて、いざ増水した時には沈むように設計することで橋が壊れるのを防ぐ工法だ

澄んだ水のせせらぎに包まれながら橋を越えて、テクテクと歩いて

午後12時前に

11番藤井寺へ

そしてここで持っていた昨日の夜買ったおにぎり２つで昼ごはんを済ませる。こんなもんじゃ全然足りないけど、遍路道沿いには予想以上にコンビニや商店が無かったのだ。ちなみに朝はおにぎり１つしか食べてないけど、この状態で遍路最大の難所焼山寺へ挑むことになってしまった。

焼山寺へはここから約13キロ。ひたすら未舗装の山道を進む。この道は現存する遍路道で唯一、空海が歩いた1200年以上前から変わることのない遍路道なのだ。まさに歴史ロマン。だけどそんなことを言ってられないくらいの難所である。

その理由の１つが、「遍路ころがし」と言われるほどに急峻かつ未舗装の山道。

しかもただ登りがあるだけではなく、標高600mまで登って降りて、また800まで登って降りて、最後に700まで登って降りるという悲劇のおまけ付きなのだ。その山道の半分以上が斜度でいうと30-40はあるであろう過酷な道のり。もちろん途中で商店などもあるわけなく、ここから13キロはひたすら山と向き合うのだ。

ということで12時半に登り始めた

コースタイムは「健脚5時間、平均6時間、弱足8時間」だそうだ。横石がどのくらい歩けるか試せるいい機会にもなる。

登り始めて早々

きつい山道だ。ここから最初の休憩スポット長戸庵までの3.2キロはただひたすら登り続ける

横に落ちたら死ぬだろうなっていう道がひたすら続いているのもまた怖い。さすが1200年前から変わらぬ道のりである

ただし、登れば登るほどいい風景が観れるのもまた山の魅力である

30分も登ればもうこの絶景

水曜どうでしょうの企画で大泉洋が四国八十八ヶ所を回っていた時「四国は気づいたら絶景しかなくなる」と何も店がない皮肉で言ってたけど全くその通りだ。絶景なんて見に行こうとしなくても気づいたらそこに広がってる。

だがそれ以上に慣れない急峻な山道は本当にキツイ。止まらない汗を抑えるために

お遍路用のバンダナというか、手ぬぐい。

お経が満遍なく書かれた逸品を巻いて気合を入れる。

これは修行や。そのために横石はお遍路に来たんだ。

そう自分を奮い立たせて、まだまだ始まったばかりの山道を登っていく

そして3.2キロ登り続けて長戸庵へ。

ここまでで1時間弱かかってしまった

やはり舗装路の1時間と山道の1時間は進む速度が違うらしい…

だけどここから横石はだんだん山道を歩くコツを掴む

どんどん高くなっていく標高と相変わらず広がる絶景を眺めながら、歩くペースもどんどん上がっていく。横石なりに掴んだ山道のコツは重心を低く、忍者のように移動することだ。

自然と歩くペースが上がって、気づけば

30分と少しで3キロ先にある次の休憩所、柳水庵まで来た。倍近いスピードでまさに忍者のように登り下りをしてきたけど、流石に疲れたので少し休憩

水を遠慮なく汲ませていただくとする

柳水庵に来た時点でちょうどほぼ中間地点

長戸庵より少し下がった位置に柳水庵はあるのだが、ここから2.2キロ先にある最後の休憩所の浄蓮庵までは一気に800mまで駆け上がる難所だ

そしてこの浄蓮庵までの登りが横石のメンタルを初めて折りかける。

2.2キロなんて舗装路だったらすぐなのに、永遠にも感じてしまう長さがそこにあった。

止まらない汗、消耗していく足、杖に頼りながらなんとか登る。

そして何よりお腹が減って意識が若干ふわふわしてきた。

予想以上にこの山道は体力を消耗させてきたらしい。

「このままじゃ倒れる」

直感でそう思ったので、慌ててバッグの中にある唯一の食料である飴を噛みながら一気に10個食べる。

飴だって１つ１つは小さいけど、10個あればそこそこの量はあるわけで。

倒れるギリギリのラインのカロリーを摂取したことで、また回復して歩き出す

そしてたまにある階段のような登りもまたキツイ。一段一段の重みが違う。

息も絶え絶え、なんとか最後の休憩所までたどり着くと

階段の上にはどでかい弘法大師様が鎮座していた。

なぜかわからないけど鳥肌が立ってしまい、静かに一礼。

弘法大師様も同じように汗をかきながら、この道を修行したんだろうか。そう考えると、一気にこのお遍路に意味が待たされる気がして、鳥肌がたったらしい。

そしてここからゴールの焼山寺まではラスト4.5キロ。もうこのまま標高800mの地点から少しずつ降って700mの焼山寺まで行ければいいのに、そうは問屋がおろさないと、まずは400mまでおろされて、そこから最後、地獄の300mアップが待っている。ちなみに最後は1.5キロで300mアップなので、平均斜度は恐怖な25パーほどになる。地獄の始まりだ。

地味にマジでキツイのが、消耗した足を襲う下り。

マジで膝が笑うってこういうことなんだって実感する。ただただきつい。

しかも

「え？ほぼ垂直じゃんこわすぎ死ぬ」ってとこに限って

なぜか岩場で、しかも濡れたコケというオマケ付き。

そりゃ「遍路ころがし」って言われるわけだわ。多分ここを通ってる人の3分の1はどこかで1回は転んでる。横石も例に漏れず1回尻餅ついて、1回バランス崩して滑落しそうだった。

というか今日の朝からすでに30キロ歩いてきてこの山道は、気をつけていても足がもつれるよ

もはや「怪我しない」ことに全てを注ぎ込んで

ラストの登りに挑む

登りももちろんコケの垂直みたいな岩場があるわけで、まさか徒歩旅中に使うと思わなかったという勢いで左手で岩を確保しながら三点支持を使ってしまった

今日焼山寺を歩き始めた歩き遍路さんほぼ抜いたんじゃね？という勢いでラストを気合入れて登り、午後3時半

夢にまで見た焼山寺に到着

コースタイムの半分の3時間で登り切ることが出来た。徒歩旅で鍛え上げられた足腰なだけある。それにしてもきつかったから、きっと歩きお遍路が初めての人は本当にキツイだろう

事実、歩き遍路の50パーセントはこの焼山寺辺りでリタイアするらしい。

さらにそこから無事に88箇所回りきれるのは30パーセントという。

道が整備された現代でもこの数字。改めて四国お遍路の厳しさを痛感した

そんな横石といえば、もちろん焼山寺はきつかったけど、体力メーターでいえばまだ余力はある。

ということでここから2時間で11キロを下山して

煌煌と光るコンビニに駆け込んで、今日初めてのまともな飯。

そして目的地のキャンプ場に到着した

周辺の野宿スポットは、今までの歩きお遍路さんのマナーの悪さもあり全て野宿禁止になってしまったらしい…

お遍路といえど旅人だ。自分たちだけ楽しければいいのではなく、後世まで旅をし易いようにマナー良くは鉄則なのに…

まぁそんなことは今更言っても仕方ない

今日は疲れたなぁ…

テントを張った後にコインシャワーを浴びて、サイダーでお疲れの乾杯をした

歩行距離 44キロ

徳島県阿波市→神山町

総歩行距離 2017キロ

四国お遍路

8番熊谷寺→9番法輪寺→10番切幡寺→11番藤井寺→12番焼山寺

総歩行距離 66キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

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