徒歩日本縦断

アドベンチャーロード（徒歩日本縦断#73）

73日目の今日は四万十市にある竹島大師堂で起床

昨日の大雨の中逃げるように駆け込んだこの場所だったが、広いし綺麗だし、電源で充電できるし、とにかく至れり尽くせりの有難いお堂だった。

そんな今日は天気も良くなるそうなので一気に40キロ先の四国最南端足摺岬（あしずりみさき）にある最果ての札所、38番金剛福寺まで行って、さらにそこから15キロ元来た道を戻って野宿予定地まで行く予定だ（お遍路では来た道を戻って次の札所に行くことを打ち戻りという）

距離にして55キロの長距離移動となるが、天気も安定しているしなんとかなるだろう

ということで朝6時に出発

そんな今日のみちのり

まずは四万十川を渡って対岸へ

朝のうちはまだ小雨がぱらついていたがみるみるうちに雲が切れて

気づけば青空に

だけどまだ地面は水たまりだらけなので、なるべく濡れないように下を見ながら歩いていると、水たまりに七色の光が反射する

「水に浮かんだ油かな」

そう思ってそのまま先に進むと

今度は増水した川にその光が映り込む

「え？！」

驚きと同時に空を見上げると

山と山を繋いで巨大な虹が目の前に現れた

言葉を失うくらいの光の橋渡し

数えてみたけどしっかり七色

昨日、泣きそうなほどの大雨に打たれて寒さに震えながら歩いて、荷物も軒並み濡れて、心が折れそうになったけど、その苦労全部が虹の向こう側に消えていった気がした

「雨上がりの空に七色の虹が架かる」
って そんなに単純じゃない
この夢想家でも
それくらい理解ってる

大量の防腐剤
心の中に忍ばせる
晴れた時ばっかじゃない
湿った日が続いても腐らぬように

たとえば100万回のうち
たった一度ある奇跡
下を向いてばかりいたら
見逃してしまうだろう

さぁ
空に架かる虹を今日も信じ
歩き続けよう
優しすぎる嘘で涙を拭いたら
虹はもうそこにある


そんな虹は数分で消えてしまい…だけど歩き出す活力としては最高のプレゼントを貰った

ここから10キロほどは山道だ

空の青と山の緑が雨上がりの今日はやけに綺麗に映えていた

1.6キロと四国にしては長いトンネルを通ってしばらく歩くと下ノ加江という集落に出る

足摺岬から約25キロ手前にあるこの集落には足摺岬に行くまでの最後の補給地点であるローソンがあるので、今日1日の食料と明日の朝の分まで買い込むことに

バックパックは重くなるが、ここから明日ここに戻ってくるまでの往復50キロは食料を買う場所はないので仕方ない。

そして、改めて歩き出す

ここからは一気に海沿いの遍路道となる

荒々しくもどこか寂しい、最果ての香り漂う足摺岬へと続く海を眺めながら5キロほど歩くと

遍路道は砂浜を行くことになる

珍しい砂浜の遍路道は「大岐の浜」と呼ばれる1.6キロ続く美しい海岸線を歩く道になっていて、潮の匂いを全身に浴びながら普段歩かない場所に心は踊る

誰もいない砂浜で心の赴くままに叫びながら歩いていたけど、500mほど歩いてからトラップに気づく。

そう。砂浜を16キロのバックパック背負って歩くとめちゃめちゃきつい。

足が沈むので普段の3倍くらいきつい。

それでもなんとか端っこまで来ると

さらなるトラップ発動

なんと前日の大雨で向こう側の道路に渡るための砂浜が川になっていた

水量もまぁまぁあるけど、これを渡らなければ大岐の浜で立ち往生だ

覚悟を決めて靴を脱いで渡る

なんというアドベンチャー

これは本当に遍路なのか疑問に思いながらも子供な横石は割りと楽しみながら川を越えて、崖を登って国道に合流。

そしてここからまた5キロほど歩いたところで以布利という港町に出る。

そして以布利からまたもや遍路道は海岸へ

ますます「これは本当に遍路道なのか？」と思うほどの荒れた岩場に出る

足元に気をつけながら少し進むと

写真右奥の山に突っ込む遍路道になった

ますます不安だ…

だけどなぜかここでも少しワクワクしてしまう

お遍路という名のアドベンチャーをしている気分だ

海岸から山に入ると早速の洗礼

いつ崩れるかわからないレベルの錆びた細い鉄橋を渡ったり

「頭を下げなさい」と怒られる倒木の下をくぐったり

昨日の大雨で完全に川と化した遍路道？を川上りしたり

極め付けは「ここ絶対人通ってないやん」と突っ込みたくなるような獣道よりもひどい道ならざる道を木々をかき分け進んで

ようやく海の見える舗装路に出ることができた

これは間違いなくアドベンチャールートだったなぁ…（2.3回滑りました笑）

最果ての地に相応しい試練の道を乗り越えたご褒美のこの青い海

最南端足摺岬まで気付けば残り10キロを切っていた。険しい道のりに越えるのが必死で、本当に「気付けば」だった

そして足摺岬手前6キロでは懐かしい小屋が

ここは自転車日本一周の1年目の時にお遍路ではなかったけど泊めていただけた遍路小屋なのだ

3年前はまだ素敵なオーナーさんの元で綺麗に保たれていて、洗濯機や電源、シャワーも使える素晴らしい無料宿泊施設だったけど、今はもう廃止になってしまったらしい…

確かあの日はシャワールームのすぐそばにスズメバチが巣を作ってて、カイトと2人で死ぬ気でシャワー浴びにいったんだっけな笑

忘れられない思い出だよなぁ

今は軒下に張る蜘蛛の巣が寂しさを助長する

三年前の暑い夏の日。横石は確かにここにいた

流れる月日の速さを感じながら少し感慨に浸りながらも最果ての地、足摺岬までは残り6キロ

思い出を振り返るのはここまでにして、前に進む

南国らしいジメッとした暑さの中を歩いて

午後3時ちょうど、四国最南端 足摺岬へ到達

お遍路を始めてから12日と半分で辿り着いた最果ての地

すぐそこに38番金剛福寺はあるけど、まずは岬を一望しなければ。

ということで展望台に登る

水平線が果てしなく広がる。

まさに最果ての海、そのままだった

日本最北端から2500キロ歩いて四国最南端まで来たんだと、その事実に少し鳥肌が立つ

そんな事実を噛み締めて、いざ38番金剛福寺へ

やはり最南端のお寺なだけあって、庭園の雰囲気が南国感のある暖かなお寺だった

広い本堂と大師堂に参拝を済ませて、ここからは元来た道を以布利まで15キロ打ち戻る

時刻は午後3時。日暮れまでには戻りたいが、ギリギリか…

アドベンチャーをクリアするのに時間がかかってしまったから仕方がないが、少し急ごう

夕暮れ近づきオレンジに染まる田舎町の雰囲気を味わいながらも早足で戻って

午後5時に残り5キロで最後の山道だ

流石にあのアドベンチャーした遍路道は薄暗い中では危険なので遠回りにはなるが細い県道から戻ることに

まぁそれでも充分怖いけどね

急いで歩きながら写真を撮ったのでぶれぶれだけど、山の日暮れの怖さは伝わると思う

そして6時ちょうどになんとか今日の野宿場所へ

ここは、以布利にあるじんべえ広場という、公認で野宿が認められたお遍路に優しい最高のスポットだ

奇跡的にシャワーもあったので4日ぶりに汗を流して

カップ麺で夜ご飯を済ませる

明日はいよいよ高知最後の札所に参拝して、明後日には愛媛県だ。

お遍路も距離的には折り返しを過ぎることになる。天気もしばらくは安定するみたいなので安心して寝ようと思う…

それではまた明日

歩行距離 55キロ

高知県四万十市→土佐清水市

総歩行距離 2499キロ

お遍路総歩行距離 548キロ

38番金剛福寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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