徒歩日本縦断

爪痕を残して（徒歩日本縦断#76）

76日目の今日は宇和島市津島町の道の駅で起床

温泉併設の道の駅で、しかも広い東屋もあり、四国の道の駅の中だったら野宿偏差値70はあるようなところだった。

ただ朝の冷え込みはひどく、なかなか寝袋から出れない身体を無理やり起こしてテントを片付ける

そして朝の6時。冷え込む中で歩き始める

まだ明るくなり始めた空の下、早速峠へ

そして峠の頂上で2キロ近くある長い松尾トンネルに入る

長いとはいえ、明るいし歩道もあるし、怖さは全くない。この時期になってくるとトンネルは暖かいのがまたいい。

そしてこのトンネルを越えたところで

少しずつお店が増えてきた。宇和島市街に入ってきたらしい

そして

宇和島の中心地に朝の8時に到着

だいたいスタートから10キロほどだ

そしてこうやって久しぶりに市街地に来ると、とにかく誘惑が多い…

すき家、ココイチ、スシロー、ガスト…

普段の生活では当たり前なものかもしれないが、今の横石にとっては特別すぎるものなのだ

だけども「節約節約」を合言葉に今日もコンビニでおにぎりとパンを一つずつ朝飯に買って食べる。

コンビニで朝飯を買うついでにいつも通りトイレへ。すると異変が起きる。

「ウィィイィン」

なぜかボタンを押してもないのに作動するウォシュレット。

「まぁすでに座ってるしいいか、間違えて押しちゃったのかもしれないし」と思って特段焦ることも無く止める

そして数秒後、また作動するウォシュレット

こいつどうやらバグっていて、座ると作動する仕組みになっているようだ

ということはお通じが終わったら死ぬ気で早くお尻を拭いて立たないとやばいのでは？

なぜこんなことで朝から悩んでいるのか自分でもわからないが、死ぬ気でお尻を拭いて立ち上がった瞬間。

「ウィィイィン」

ウォシュレットくんは今や遅しと飛び出してきた

時間は止まり、なすすべも無くウォシュレットの水を浴びる横石。

朝から付いてない…急いで持ってるタオルで拭いてそそくさとコンビニを飛び出した。

こんなこと文句も言えないわ。恥ずかしくて。

そんな宇和島市街のプチハプニングも太陽の光ですぐに乾いて、国道56号を北上。

2.3キロ進んだところで、県道57号にそれて41番札所のある龍光寺へ向かう

龍光寺はここから10キロほどで、緩やかな田舎道の坂を標高200mほどまで上がるが、斜度は緩すぎてわからないくらいだ


そして登り切るとのどかな田園風景が広がる

ここまでくれば龍光寺はもうすぐそこだ

スタートから22キロ。午前10時半に龍光寺に到着

龍光寺では参拝を済ませた後、ベテランお遍路さんらしき人に今後のルートの相談に乗ってもらっていた

というのも今日。41番龍光寺→42番仏木寺とここまでは札所の距離も3キロ無く、なんの問題もないのだが、42番仏木寺→43番明石寺が鬼門なのだ。

距離にして10キロ強とあまり長くはない距離だが、標高500mの歯長峠という峠を越えなければいけない。そして歯長峠は、去年の西日本豪雨で数多くの場所が土砂崩れになっていて未だに通行止の未舗装遍路道がたくさんあるのだ

その場所を詳しく教えてもらって、改めてルートを立て直して、龍光寺を出発

次の42番仏木寺は30分ほどのどかな田園風景の中を歩く

そんな仏木寺までの道のりは距離こそ短いがコスモス咲き乱れる本当にきちんと手入れされて綺麗な道のりだった

そして仏木寺へ

立派な山門をくぐって参拝。

そしていよいよ鬼門の43番明石寺に向かって歩き出す

最近ハマってるローソンの塩おにぎりで気合いを入れる。これ本当にコメ本来の味がして美味しいし安くて量もあるから重宝してる

「まぁ、鬼門といってもルートは大体把握したし、大丈夫だろ！」そんな軽い気持ちでいざ指示された遍路道へ向かおうとすると

まさかの言われていなかった区間が崩落で通行止めに。この時点であんなに綿密に立てた計画はパーになる

そしてこの県道から逸れる通行止めの遍路道は本来めちゃくちゃ近道なので、それが通れないとなると九十九折りが続く県道をひたすら歩かなければならないという事態に…距離にして3.4キロは遠回りか…だけど通行止めじゃ仕方ないので割り切って県道を歩き始める

舗装された県道でさえ、土砂崩れの爪痕はいまだに生々しく残っていた。言葉を無くしてしまう

しばらく登り続けて歯長峠の頂上に辿り着くと、狭いトンネルを500mほど通って、

トンネルを抜けるとここからは下りなのだが、下りの遍路道は通行止になっていなかったので遍路道を行くことにした

そして横石は災害の本当の怖さを肌で実感することになる

その有様は「なんでこの遍路道を通行止めにしないんだ？」と言えるレベルだった

崩落した遍路道をよじ登り

流された橋を迂回し

根元から倒れた木を橋代わりにして渡り

極め付けはもう道なんか見えないレベルで倒れ重なった倒木たちを、時に乗りこえて時にくぐって越える、最後の最後の難関だ

乗り越えなければいけない時は少しでも足を滑らせれば怪我は免れないような高い場所で、本当に慎重に越えていった

そしてようやく県道に出て今来た道を振り返ると

本当に西日本豪雨という未曾有の災害の恐ろしさを思い知ることに

どうやらこの遍路道は私有地なので復旧が進まないというのが、この荒れ方の背景にあるらしい

歯長峠から下る未舗装の遍路道は通行止にこそなっていないが、どうかここを通ることは避けて欲しいと思う。怪我をしたり、何かあってもおかしくない道だ。

そして県道に遠回りしたり、荒れすぎた道に苦しんでいたら、気づけば予定時間を大幅に遅れて明石寺に着いた

本当なら1時半に着いているはずが、もう3時前だ。そりゃ歩く距離が伸びたので当たり前だが、計画を練り直す。

今日は進めたら60キロほど歩いて大洲市街まで行きたかったが、この時間からあと25キロは間違いなく無理だ。いや、またナイトハイクすればいけないことはないが、無理してまでやるものでもない。

そうなると今後の予定も立て直さなければいけないが、今日はあと15キロほど歩いて大洲市に入ったところにある東屋のある国道56号沿いの休憩所を目指すことに。

現在午後3時で残り15キロなので予定到達時刻はちょうど6時だ。

明石寺は山の中腹にあるので、降りると西予市街に出る。国道56号をひたすら北上し

市街地から風景は夕暮れの田園風景へ

そして今日最後の峠はまたもや標高500m級の鳥坂峠

既に歯長峠の予期せぬ通行止めや土砂崩れで疲労がたまっているが最後の力で登って

長さ1.2キロのトンネルを抜けると

大洲市にやっと入る。

だいぶ暗くなってきたので急いで山を下って

予定通りの18時ちょうどに目的地の休憩所に到着。こじんまりしていていいところだ。トイレもあるので安心して眠れそう

今日は予期せぬハプニング続きで疲れたなぁ…明日からはさらなる山岳地帯。気を引きしめなければ

歩行距離 53キロ

愛媛県宇和島市→大洲市

総歩行距離 2649キロ

お遍路15日半

総歩行距離 698キロ

41番龍光寺→42番仏木寺→43番明石寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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