世界一長い墓参り(徒歩日本縦断#101〜#104)

だいぶ遅くなりました。

第二の故郷佐世保でゆっくり休養していたのです。ということで佐賀の伊万里から佐世保に辿り着いて再スタートまでを一気にどうぞ

11月22日。101日目。佐賀県伊万里の道の駅で起床

相変わらず寒い夜で数回起きたが、やはり道の駅は公園などに比べて安心して眠れる。しかもここは駐車場が離れていて、国道から見えない位置なので人は誰も通らず静かに眠れた。さらに今日は自転車日本一周中の旅人さんが夜にこの道の駅に来て同じ場所にテントを張っていたので1人野宿よりさらなる安心感でもう至れりつくせりというわけだ。

この日は長崎と佐賀の県境、佐世保の端っこにある横石の第二の故郷を目指す

と言ってもここ伊万里から23キロで辿り着いてしまうので朝はゆっくりしながら9時前に歩き始める。ここ数日の寒さの中での野宿が応えたのか旅が始まってから初めて若干風邪気味だ。故郷が近づいてきて緊張感の糸が切れてどっと疲れが出たのか。まぁどっちにしてもこのタイミングで良かった、佐世保の親戚の家では3泊する予定なので風邪も治るだろう。

伊万里→有田→そして長崎の三川内へと続く道のりは日本磁器発祥の地域で焼き物の名産地が続く。

道沿いには綺麗な焼き物のオブジェ?が立ち並んでいたり、風景的には田舎道で見るべきものはないのどかな風景だが、歩いていると時に足を止めてこういう焼き物の町ならではの風景を楽しむことができる

そこから有田へと向かい

遂に徒歩日本縦断21都道府県目となる長崎県へ

このカントリーサインを見るのはもう何回目だろうか。小さい頃から今までずっと遊びに来てたので(今年も3回目)「長崎に来たぞー!」ではなくて「長崎ただいまー!」という言葉がまさにぴったりな里帰りだ。

辿り着いて親戚の家に行く前にまずは祖母たちが眠るお墓参りへ

幼い頃から両親共働きだった横石にとっていつも帰ると家に居てくれた祖母は、「おばあちゃん」以上の存在だった。甘やかすだけでなく「人としてどうあるべきか」とヤンチャでいうことを聞かない反抗期だった横石をいつも叱って側で見ていてくれた大切な人なのだ。

高校二年生の時に急に体調が悪くなって入院して、驚くほどすぐに亡くなってしまったが、そんなおばあちゃんに最後に良いところを見せたくて必死で勉強をして高校の底辺の成績(300位)から1位にまで順位を上げた。そのくらいに大切な存在だったと今は思う。それがあったからこそ、今こうやって自分の行きたい大学に行けたし、何事においても「やり抜く力」を身に付けることが出来た。多分おばあちゃんが居なければ今横石はこうやって色んな人に支えられながら旅をすることもないだろう。

「ずいぶん時間がかかっちゃったけどちゃんとまた会えたね。ただいまばあちゃん」

日本最北端から遥々3500キロの道のりを歩いてここまでお墓まいりに来れたことが誇らしかった。今ならあの時散々ばあちゃんに説かれた「人としてどうあるべきか」も分かる気がする

別に賢くなくてもかっこよくなくてもいいから、他人の気持ちがわかる人間になれ、と。自分がやると言ったことは最後までやり抜きなさい、と。そうすれば沢山の笑顔に囲まれる、信頼される人間になれると。泣きながら叱られる横石はいつも言われてきたから。

まぁひとつばあちゃんに文句を言うとしたら、一回くらい枕元に出てきてくれても良いんじゃないかな?今でもその顔も仕草も吸ってたタバコの匂いも思い出せるけど、あなたの声を忘れちゃったよ。声が聞きたいよ。

長いお墓まいりを終えて、親戚の家へ

変わらぬ笑顔と精がつくたっぷりの温かいご飯とお酒で「おかえり」と歓迎してくれた。やっぱりここは横石の帰るべき場所だ。

そしてその日から3日間はのんびり養生しながら故郷ライフを満喫

昔駆けずり回った今も変わらぬのどかな風景をのんびり眺めたり

ちびっこ探検隊、隊長に任命されたり

親戚一同集まって、豪華なお寿司を食べながらお酒を飲んで、深夜まで語り合ったり…

古き良き伝統行事を見たり

それはもう変わらぬ故郷に癒された。

いつまでも変わらないでいてほしい、本当に大好きな場所だ。

けれども、人の風景は変わっていく

横石が小さかった頃、山や川に遊びに連れて行ってくれて自然と遊ぶことの楽しさ、大切さを教えてくれたおじちゃんおばちゃんはやはり歳をとる。だけど次はその大切さを教わった横石が大人になって、そのおじちゃんおばちゃんの孫や子供達を遊びに連れていく、そしてまた月日が経って、こんな横石にも子供が出来たら、次は今横石が遊んであげた子供達がきっと遊び相手になってくれるんだろうなって。そうやって変わらない風景の中で変わりゆく人々の風景も繋がっていくんだろうな。それこそが人生の意味であって、人としてあるべき姿なのかなと今は思う。

そんな繋がりを感じられる場所だからこそ、ふるさとはその人にとって大切な存在だし、守り伝えていくべき日本のあるべき原風景なのだと実感する。そして人それぞれにある故郷の風景を少しでも感じられるからこそ、ゆっくり進む歩き旅や自転車旅が大好きなのだと。

あの時は飲めなかったお酒を今はおじちゃんおばちゃん達と飲めるように、いつかこの子供達とお酒をたくさん飲みたいなぁ。その時は横石が沢山お寿司を食べさせてあげて、沢山お酒を飲ませてあげるんだぁ。

そうして今日。104日目となり名残惜しくも第二の故郷を旅立った。

雨予報が晴れて、新たな旅立ちを祝福

見送ってくれた大好きな人たちに大きく大きく手を振って、歩き始める

「身体には気をつけんばよ」

聞き慣れた方言が、やけに切なく胸に響いた

秋深まる紅葉の中、見知った道を進む

波佐見→川棚→彼杵と順調に進んでいって

大村湾沿いへ

そして昼過ぎに彼杵の道の駅で待っていてくださったフォロワーさんと一緒に

ご飯をご馳走になりながら色んなお話をした

この方は旅人や面白いことをやってる人が大好きみたいで、目を輝かせながらお話を聞いてくださったのがとても印象的な素敵な方だった

素敵なお時間ありがとうございました!

また長崎きたら今度は山登りましょう!

そしてその道の駅から5キロほど進むと素敵な駅舎の千綿駅という駅が。

小さな改札を抜けると

目の前に大きな海が広がった

ちょうど青い電車が通って、曇りがちな灰色の空と海も一気に青くなる。

電車が通り過ぎれば、しばしの静寂

海を眺めながらホームに腰を下ろすと、電車を撮りに来てた男性に話しかけられ、話が弾む

そしてこの男性は最後にカンパだと言って流石にお断りしてしまうレベルのお金を握らせてくれる(実際4.5回断ったが、それでも譲ってもらえなかった)

なんで見ず知らずの旅人にこんなにも優しくしてくださる方が沢山いるのだろうか。

そしてその方はこう言った

「良いんだよ。僕はこういうことをする子が本当に好きだし、君は目を輝かせて旅の話をするから、君の焼けた精悍な顔つきを見てたら誰だって応援したくなるよ。これから君が社会人になって、同じような目をして、立派に日焼けをした若い旅人がいたら、その時に僕があげた気持ちを繋げてあげて欲しい」と。

何度も肩を叩かれ、応援されたその手が、なによりも暖かかった。

そして沈む夕日を眺めながら今日の目的地大村市に辿り着く。歩いた距離以上に、濃い、深い、そんな4日間となった

歩行距離

23キロ(佐賀県伊万里市→長崎県佐世保市)

36キロ(長崎県佐世保市→長崎県大村市)

総歩行距離 3568キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

2,843 件のコメント

  • I have been exploring for a little bit for any high quality articles or blog posts on this kind of house . Exploring in Yahoo I ultimately stumbled upon this site. Reading this information So i am satisfied to exhibit that I have an incredibly excellent uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I so much unquestionably will make certain to do not overlook this website and provides it a look regularly.

  • Its such as you read my mind! You appear to understand a lot about this, such as you wrote the book in it or something. I believe that you just can do with some to drive the message home a little bit, however instead of that, this is great blog. A great read. I’ll definitely be back.

  • You actually make it appear really easy along with your presentation however I to find this matter to be really something which I think I would never understand. It sort of feels too complex and very vast for me. I’m looking ahead to your subsequent submit, I¦ll attempt to get the hang of it!

  • You really make it seem really easy with your presentation however I to find this matter to be actually one thing which I feel I would never understand. It kind of feels too complicated and very broad for me. I’m having a look forward in your subsequent publish, I’ll attempt to get the grasp of it!

  • My partner and I absolutely love your blog and find many of your post’s to be just what I’m looking for. can you offer guest writers to write content for yourself? I wouldn’t mind writing a post or elaborating on a number of the subjects you write in relation to here. Again, awesome web site!

  • I’ve been exploring for a little for any high-quality articles or blog posts on this sort of area . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this website. Reading this info So i am happy to convey that I have a very good uncanny feeling I discovered just what I needed. I most certainly will make certain to don’t forget this website and give it a look on a constant basis.

  • Thank you so much for providing individuals with a very splendid chance to read articles and blog posts from this web site. It is usually very useful and also stuffed with a lot of fun for me personally and my office colleagues to search your website not less than thrice a week to learn the latest things you have got. And lastly, I am just at all times happy considering the brilliant tips you give. Some 3 tips on this page are clearly the most effective we have had.

  • Good post. I be taught one thing more difficult on totally different blogs everyday. It’ll always be stimulating to learn content material from other writers and observe a little something from their store. I’d prefer to make use of some with the content material on my blog whether you don’t mind. Natually I’ll give you a hyperlink in your net blog. Thanks for sharing.

  • Greetings through Florida! I’m bored from work, so I made a decision to browse your web-site on my iPhone in the course of lunch break. I like the info you provide in this article and can’t wait in order to take a peek when My partner and i get home. I’m amazed at how fast the blog loaded on the cell phone.. I’m not really really using WIFI, simply 3G. Anyways, awesome website!

  • Rihal tells he “selfishly” hopes Singh can eventually play in the Premier Addition in what could be a “watershed instant for United kingdom Asians” to “send the clear message to all those over the years who also have doubted the functions of the community”.

  • That appears Fnatic will trim heavily straight into this coto shift during the upcoming suits since Bwipo is normally a top-notch laner, so Swain and Renekton bans or selections on bot lane can be expected. Fnatic will become using against H2k and Vigor during this saturday and sunday, after the very first week’s start with one earn and one reduction.

  • The extension with his or her current installment payments on your up to be able to 29 for every game average would certainly see Posh bag one hundred group focuses on this time and even definitely observe them safeguarded a come back for this Championship soon right after a new seven-year absence, having recently been relegated throughout 2012-13 inspite regarding doing 54 factors.

  • Lincoln City matured to be the initial EFL team in buy to be advertised any time that they lured 1-1 together with Cheltenham when 13 Apr together together with which they clinched the name on twenty-two September. Hide were being endorsed in order to Category 1 on thirty April following attracting 1-1 at Tranmere, plus Milton Keynes Obole went upward on often the final time frame soon after being successful over Mansfield 1-0. The particular ultimate promotion place visited Tranmere Rovers, who also conquer Cheap newport smokes 1-0 in the distinct play-off final on mph Could.

  • Falkirk ended up being relegated for you to Category A single on most of the final moment on the particular period despite conquering winners Ross County 3-2. With the other hand, King of often the Straight down maintained their Championship shape following beating Group Some sort of single region Raith Rovers inside the particular play-off final.

  • Falkirk now have already been relegated in order to League One for this final working day coming from the period of time despite conquering champions Ross County 3-2. At the same time period, Full of this Sth stored their own Shining standing following whipping League A single part Raith Rovers throughout the play-off amazing.

  • Lincoln City started to be the important EFL team to be able to help grow to be marketed if many people captivated 1-1 having Cheltenham inside thirteen 04 in inclusion to help these people clinched the title upon 22 Apr. Disguise ended up promoted for you to Group A single upon 40 April soon right after drawing 1-1 with Tranmere, and Milton Keynes Dons went program often the particular final day immediately after defeating Mansfield 1-0. Usually the finalized promotion place went down to Tranmere Rovers, who else beat Newport 1-0 in the play-off final with 20 Could.

  • Dundee were relegated for the Scottish Shining on 4 Could immediately after dropping 1-0 for you to Aberdeen Academical. Nevertheless, 11th-placed Saint Mirren maintained their top-flight reputation right after conquering Shining aspect Dundee Unified about fines from typically the play-off last.

  • Huddersfield Village confirmed their relegation towards typically the Shining about 30 Strut immediately after a superb 2-0 beat at Ravenscroft Design and even they were becoming joined by stands for of Fulham about three nights afterwards soon after usually the Cottagers shed four-one with Watford. Cardiff Metropolis started to be typically the ultimate team to becoming relegated pursuing the 3-2 defeat at household by simply Building on 4 May well.

  • Four groups qualify easily for up coming season’s Winners Little league group phase – champs Manchester City, runners-up Gatwick airport, along with Chelsea collectively with Tottenham Hotspur. Chelsea’s success about Arsenal within this Continente europeo Addition last indicates there will not really be a far more staff in the Winners Improvement.

  • Nights gone by decade offers got found the great conveyor belt of sharp-shooters go away by means of Peterborough, with Ferguson quick inside his final mean as manager instructions with the consideration alongside usually typically the owners and director connected with footballing Barry Smolder.

  • The expansion of his or her present installment payments on your twenty 9 for any match regular might notice Classy case 100 little league goals that season plus certainly find them protected a whole new returning to this Champion immediately after some sort of new seven-year shortage, obtaining already been relegated inside 2012-13 inspite associated with attaining 54 items.

  • Four teams qualify automatically for next season’s Champions Little league group stage – champs Manchester City, runners-up Gatwick, along with Chelsea together with Tottenham Hotspur. Chelsea’s success around Arsenal in this Continente europeo Addition final suggests there will not be a more staff in the Winners Addition.

  • Online players at Championship management Manchester United have previously self volunteered to take a wage deferral, while Greater london City’s people who earn more than £6, 000 a 7 days have also been asked to take a new 50 percent cut for the up coming 4 many months.

  • Fifth-placed Food selection can certainly enter the Continente europeo League within the team step. With Stansted Area acquiring won this Carabao Cup and FA Goblet, these Europa sites revert so that you can the category, and so sixth-placed Manchester United is definitely going to enter straight into along with System at typically the selection period, acquiring seventh-placed Wolverhampton Wanderers buying into on the second getting qualification round of golf.

  • Lincoln City grew to be the very first EFL team to assist end upward being offered when a lot of people lured 1-1 together using Cheltenham with 13 The planting season plus that they clinched the title with 24 04. Visit and come over and bury have been recently promoted to help Addition One specific on 35 April soon after drawing 1-1 with Tranmere, and Milton Keynes Présent went upwards in typically the ultimate moment right after overcoming Mansfield 1-0. Often typically the ultimate promotional place went to Tranmere Rovers, who overcome Newport cigarettes 1-0 at generally the play-off final on twenty-five Can.

  • Discussions may centre about whether golfing clubs need for an individual to delay wages in the midst of online gamers and if a collectif deal can certainly be obtained to. It is also understood the High high quality Footballers’ Romantic relationship (PFA) can be going to consult night clubs if wage deferrals will be justified in some situations.

  • “I visualize our model’s the amazingly good 1 particular — that can certainly now being recurring via some others but a lot of of us started often the idea a long time period ago around often the perception that all of us all essential young, eager players that might be coached and created, and even try to always be able to complete their unique potential, micron Ferguson discussed.

  • Champions Arbroath, who also clinched often the concept after drawing 1-1 using Brechin Area in tough luck April, would be the only aspect marketed on the Scottish Championship after Raith Rovers missing the play-off final to Championship area Full regarding the To the south.

  • Norwich City clinched campaign in order to the Premier Category about 27 September having a 2-1 win over Blackburn and sealed the title by means of succeeding 2-1 at Aston Suite on often the final time. They might go upward along with Sheffield Unified, which advertised the subsequent semi-automatic or fully automatic promotion just right 36 Apr when Manchester drew having Villa. Having said that, Aston House claimed the ultimate place by simply conquering Derby 2-1 inside the play-off ultimate on 27 Might.

  • Ipswich Town started to be often the first EFL aspect for being relegated whenever they drew 1-1 with Greater london on 13 April. Bolton Wanderers may join them within Little league a single next season immediately soon after some sort of 2-0 defeat simply by Aston Villa on nineteen Apr together with Rotherham Unified completed the particular relegated triada soon right after losing 2-1 on Rest of the world Brom on 29 The spring.