振り返れば(徒歩日本縦断#108)

108日目の今日は天草半島の南端に位置する牛深の道の駅で起床

道の駅というより水族館のような造りの変わった施設だったが、至る所に軒下があり、奥まって人が来なそうなところにテントを張ったおかげで熟睡できた。

まだ6時だが眠い目をこすりながらテントを片付けて、6時40分発の長島という鹿児島の島に行くフェリーに乗り込む

朝焼けの中で煌々と光る船の光が男心をくすぐる。熊本県は今回の旅では天草諸島しか行くことができなかったが、それでもまた新たに色んな熊本を見ることができて良かった。

そしてここからフェリーで30分もすれば蔵之元港という長島の1番北に到着する。いよいよ本土最後となる鹿児島県に上陸するのだ

30分なんてあっという間で、朝焼けのオレンジが薄い青に変わった朝の7時10分に鹿児島県上陸。23都道府県目だ。

港で着替えて靴紐を結んでたら早速釣りをしに来たみかん農家の方に差し入れをいただく。やはり鹿児島とは相性がいいみたいだ。自転車の時から鹿児島に来るとやたらと声をかけていただき親切にしていただけるというジンクスの持ち主なのだ。

謎のゴリラに見守られながら長島縦断をスタート。ちなみにこれからちょくちょく未確認生物UMAが出てくる長島町。遊び心がある素敵な島だと思ってほしい。

今日は快晴。鹿児島にまで入ると南国らしいヤシの木が立ち並び、海と空の青に良く映える。

ちなみにここ長島はだんだん畑と花の島と呼ばれるようで、文字通りに島のいたるところに段々畑が広がる。

先に通ったヨツが昨日「マチュピチュのようだ」と言っていたが、これは確かに小さいマチュピチュのような日本ではなかなか見ることのできない風景だ。しかも桜島が近いからなのか、土は赤土でこれがまたなんとも言えない南国感を感じさせる

問題は段々畑が続くということは山の斜面に立ち並んだ島だということ。山の斜面ということはアップダウンが激しいということ。

100歩譲って眺望がなかなかお目にかかれない新鮮な美しさだったので許せるが、これがただの道でこのアップダウンだったら発狂しそうだ。だって登って降りても平坦なんて本当にないまますぐにまた登りなんだもん。

そして14キロ歩いて人魚がいる広場へ

「お?ここ広いし海を一望出来んじゃん」くらいの気持ちで人魚の裏に回って海を眺めると

まるで遠く離れた北海道の積丹ブルーを彷彿とさせるようなコバルトブルーが広がっていて息をするのも忘れるほどに見入ってしまう。

何層にも別れた青が目を飽きさせない。

深い青に爽やかな青、海と空の境目は限りなく白に近い青。

なんと素敵な島だろうか。なかなか見ることのできない圧巻の段々畑にこの青い海。そしてなにより人も優しく、この海を見ながらボケーっとしてたら車でこの海を撮りに来ていたご夫婦の方にお昼代のカンパまで頂いてしまった。

今日は20度はありそうな暖かい日。

四国で出会った渡り蝶のアサギマダラがそこからさらに南へ。この地まで渡っていて優雅に飛んでいた。どうやらこの蝶も横石と同じルートを辿って南下しているようだ。

どうだい?君も、波照間まで来ないかい?

そういえば昔タクマが言っていた

「俺ら後ろを振り返らなくなったよなー」

そう、北海道を歩き始めた頃はどのくらい進んだのかやけに知りたくて、何度も何度も後ろを振り返って、その度にさっき見た風景がまだすぐ近くにあることに絶望したものだが、いつのまにか横石は後ろを振り返らなくなった。

いや、正確には振り返る必要が無くなった

後ろを振り返ったところで前に進むことは出来ないから。徒歩日本縦断を始めた時点で横石が次に後ろを振り返る時は、日本最南端の波照間島に辿り着いた時だって覚悟ができた。

ただ最南端に着いてしまえばもうその先に道はない。あるのは今まで歩いてきた道のりと足跡だけだ。だから前に進むこと=元来た道を戻ること、となるのだ。その時まで横石は後ろを振り返ることはもうないだろう。

長島が綺麗すぎて、好みの風景すぎて、ついつい立ち止まって長居してしまったが、お昼ちょうどに無事17キロを歩き縦断を完了。いよいよ阿久根市に入る。

この橋を渡れば天草諸島→長島と続いた島旅を終えて本土に戻るというわけだ。

ちなみにこの橋は海峡にあり潮と潮がちょうどぶつかり合うので、息ができないほどの凄まじい風とともに小さな渦潮がいくつも出来ていて見応えたっぷりだった。最後の最後までエンターテイナーな長島を名残惜しみながら越えて本土帰還。

帰還してすぐに後ろから話しかけられてお昼ご飯分のパンを頂いたり、そこから30分ほど経ってからさらに違う人におにぎりを頂いたり、とにかく九州の人は優しい。そういえばジョーも「気温が暖かいように、人も暖かいよ、九州」と言っていたが確かにその通りだ。改めて思う

そして本土に入った途端にあんなにたくさんあった段々畑がパタンと消えたのがまた不思議な感覚がする。本土には本土ののどかな風景があるのだ。

そこからまた10キロほど歩いて阿久根市街へ

いなかの商店街をまっすぐ南へ進んで

南国バスっていう響きとこの傾き具合がたまらない

気づけば日が暮れてきた。

海沿いなことも、ここが西の果ての方ということもあってまだまだ日は差して明るいがやはり16時を超えるとガクッと寒くなる

夕日が沈む絶景の道を南へ

日が当たる右半身が火照る

随分と独善的な美しさだ

夕日が目立つ代わりにその他の全ては黒に染まる、だがシルエットがあるからこそ夕日が支えられてて際立つし、時には黒が主役の時だってある。この写真だってシルエットが美しいからこそ絵になるのだ。

そして今日の目的地。道の駅阿久根に到着

ここから夜は予想外の方向へ、長い夜が始まった

歩行距離 40キロ

熊本県天草市→鹿児島県阿久根市

総歩行距離 3732キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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