徒歩日本縦断

ラムネ色した宇宙（徒歩日本縦断#112）

112日目の今日は本部港のすぐ近くにある崎本部緑地公園管理棟の軒下で起床

昨日の夕方近くのLAWSONで買い出ししていた時に出会った旅人さんと2人でテントを張ったので沖縄初めての野宿は安心して眠ることができた。

そんな今日はいよいよ沖縄本島を南へ

名護湾を海沿いに南下してから本島を縦断して南側の海に出て宜野座村という場所を目指す30キロの道のりだ。宜野座村にはインスタで応援してくださっているプロダイバーの方が別荘兼ペンションのようなものをやっているので、ありがたいことにそこに無料で泊まらせてことになっている

曇り空の中、朝8時にスタート

まぁ30キロだし、ゆったり行こう

せっかくの沖縄で時間もあるし、最後の旅くらい島時間を味わいながら行くくらいがちょうどいいだろう

それにしても沖縄の海は曇っていてもこの透明度と色合い

何度も足を止めて海を眺めてしまう

そりゃそうだ。ただでさえ海なし県埼玉の男横石。日本中旅をしてたくさんの海を見てきたが、いくら海に慣れても、綺麗な海は格別だ。

歩き始めて1時間もすると雲がどんどん飛んでいって青空が覗き始めた。ヤシの木が立ち並ぶ道は12月にしてはありえないほどに暖かい風が優しく吹く

そして進んでいくと、突然騒がしくなる道路

前を見るとテレビでしか見たことのない反政権、反基地のデモがまさに今行われていた

規模としては数十人だけの小さな規模だろうが、それでも怒号のようなものまで飛び交う熱量に圧倒される。行き交うトラックに轢かれてもいいくらいの勢いで身を呈して訴えているその姿は、交通の妨げになっていることはもちろんだが、なぜかやけに切なく見えた

フェリーの中でも米軍問題に関して沖縄県民にそのリアルを聞いたが、やっぱり危険であっても、こんなにも反対デモを行う理由はそれなりのものがあって（いつか詳しく書けたらなぁと思います）ニュースで見ただけでは全く他人事で、正直「何やってんだろ」としか思えなかった基地問題が肌に直で感じることで物凄くリアルに横石の身体に飛び込んできた。もちろん賛成反対それぞれいて、よそ者の横石にはそういう問題をここで書くのも知識がない今はダメな気がするので、いつか…

そんなことを考えているうちに空はさらに晴れてきて

名護市に入った頃にはもはや暑くなる

12月なのに20度は越えているだろう

感覚的には本州の晴れた10月と同じ気温で、まさに1番過ごしやすい気候だ。

そして名護市街にはこんなものが

沖縄といえば！のこれA＆W

四年ぶりに食べたかったけどちょうど朝兼昼ご飯を済ませてしまっていたのでまた楽しみにとっておこう

正午になり、北部の都会である名護市街を抜けて名護湾を海沿いに進んでいく

太陽が上に昇るにつれて、雲は切れ、青空が目の前に広がる

海は次第に青さを増して

「美ら海」と称される沖縄の海の本気を垣間見る

世間では初冬だというのにジリジリ照りつけて肌を焼く太陽とそれに呼応するように青く透き通るコーラルリーフの海。風は爽やかに焼けた肌を包み込んで、海風を運んでくれる

重いバックパックを置いて、海風を吸い込みながら伸びをしてみた

あぁ、なんだろう。この感覚は

ここは間違いなく日本なはずなのに

いや、地球なはずなのに

足がうまく地につかない

こんな夢みたいな海を眺めていたら

歩いて旅をしているはずなのに

宙に浮いているみたいだ。

ラムネ色をした宇宙がそこにあった

気づけば横石は夏でも泳げない最北の自然の厳しさ溢れる美しい海から、冬でも泳げる最南の夢を見ているような楽園の海に来ていたようだ

ずいぶんと長い夢を見ている気がする

歩いて歩いて歩いて、大好きな日本を旅する不思議な冒険の夢

その夢がもうすぐ醒めるのが、どこか怖くて寂しくて、だけど歩き抜いた先の風景が見たくて…

どうせ醒める夢ならば、とことんその夢を楽しもうと思う。

小学生の頃の夏休み、お盆も過ぎて、残り少ない夢のような時間をカレンダーの日付とにらめっこしながら名残惜しむあのなんとも言えない切なくて美しい少年時代の感覚。

その感覚を想起して、たまらなくノスタルジーな気分になってしまった。

そんな横石を現実に引き戻すのは地鳴りのような音と共にすぐ上空を飛んで行ったオスプレイの飛行訓練

これは確かに怖い

こんなのが平気で住宅地の上を飛んでいるのだから心配になる気持ちもわかる

実際横石も、遠くでトラックが事故ったのかと思ってしまうような音を聞いたし、空震と言うのだろうか、低空飛行な分、身体の髄までその振動が響き渡った。

こののどかで美しい南の島が平穏で、今のままの島時間が流れてくれたらいいなぁと、今は祈ることしか出来ない。

そして道は海沿いを離れて本島を縦断するために内陸の山越えへ

と言っても細長い沖縄本島を縦断するのは7キロほど歩けばいいだけなので、言葉ほど大したことはない。山も標高100mほどの峠なので、植生が本土と全く違う沖縄の自然を楽しみながらのんびり歩いていく。

12月でも蝶は舞い、特に沖縄でしか見れないようなツマベニチョウなどの大型種が優雅に舞う姿は圧巻だ

そして峠の頂上で宜野座村へ

この1日で肌もさらに黒くなった気がする

これは確かに沖縄人が黒い理由もよくわかる

実際こんなに黒くてもあまり浮かない、横石にはありがたいのが沖縄だ。

まだまだ綺麗に咲き乱れるハイビスカスを眺めながら、宜野座村の中心を目指す

宜野座村は人口5000人ほどの長閑な村で、さとうきび畑も沢山の場所にあるような、古き良き沖縄を味わえる村だ。

春になると阪神タイガースのキャンプ地となることでも有名らしい。

そして16時前には村の中心部へ到着

これでもかというくらいにゆったり風景を眺めながら歩いてきたが、やはり30キロだと早めに着くもんだなぁ

今日お世話になる方とは18時に待ち合わせなので、村にあった良い雰囲気の食堂に入る

そして定食の安さに目を引かれて、ついつい注文

600円で沖縄そばがついてこの量だ。これはもう頼むしかないだろう。

朝ごはんを10時に食べてから何にも食べてなかったのでお腹も満たされて

コーフィーを飲みながら優雅にBlogをup

女将さんと話しながら、色々宜野座村のことを聞いていたが、地元の常連さんが来た途端女将さんと常連さんの会話が全く聞き取れなくなった。

いや、本当に何を話しているのかわからないからびっくりだ

聞こえた単語は「忘年会」「待ち合わせ」くらいなもんだ。女将さんは横石と話すときは手加減してくれていたのを実感する。ありがたや…

そして気づけば常連さんと

宮古の焼酎で乾杯。

まだ日も明るいうちから沖縄の人よく飲むよく飲む

勧められてついつい水割りを5杯ほど夕方から飲んでしまった。

それにしても見ず知らずの旅人を飲み会の輪の中に入れてくれるなんて、やっぱり沖縄の人も暖かいもんだ

そんなこんなで18時になってから、待ち合わせの場所へ移動。

そしてここから横石史上最も驚くべき宿に泊まることになる。（腰抜かしそうになった）

沖縄県本部町→宜野座村

歩行距離 30キロ

総歩行距離 3835キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


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