平和の礎(徒歩日本縦断#117)

117日目の今日は南城市のゲストハウス結縁で起床

南国感あふれる外観と陽気なしまんちゅオーナーさんのいるステキなゲストハウスだった

そんな今日は沖縄南部ぐるっと一周後半戦

糸満市にある平和記念公園やひめゆりの塔を見学しながら那覇に戻る

距離的には26キロほどなのでじっくり見学の時間も取れそうだ。午前8時半に歩き出す

天気も快晴だし、言うことなし!

強い風に押されながら陽気に歩き出して

糸満市に入る。

そしてさとうきび畑広がる道沿いを進んで

平和祈念資料館に到着

広大に広がる綺麗な敷地は広島の平和記念公園を彷彿とさせる。やはり空気がどこか違う

そして中へ

写真撮影は禁止なので無いが、一言で言うと壮絶だった。リアルなガマの様子や、悲しい現状、逃げ惑う人々、殺されていく人々など、日本で唯一地上戦が行われた場所という悲惨さは来てみて改めてわかることがあった。

そしてもう一つありがたいなぁと思えたのは、展示が大平洋戦争から復興までの歴史に沿って詳細に記されていたことで、「受験生の時にここに来たら本当に勉強になっただろうな」と思えるくらいの日清戦争からの日本や世界全体の歴史を学ぶことができた。

全体を鳥瞰できるからこそ見える大平洋戦争の惨状。そして、横石は北海道から歩いてくる中で色んな戦争の歴史を学んできた

だからこそ点と点で学んで肌で感じた歴史が最後の地沖縄で線として繋がったという感覚に取り込まれる

例えば沖縄戦一つを取っても、沖縄戦が開戦してから、沖縄を取り囲む艦隊を攻撃するために1週間前までいた鹿児島で特攻隊が組まれ、それでも降伏しない日本を降伏させるために広島と長崎に原爆を落とす。当たり前ながら全てがつながっている。その全てを知って、受け入れて、歩きてきた。

そして沖縄戦で亡くなった国籍を問わない全戦没者の名前が載った平和の礎に来た時、なぜか涙が出そうになる。

あぁそうか

歴史の出来事になっているとはいえ

この人たちにももちろん名前があって

家族がいて、故郷があって、叶えたい夢もあったんだ

だからだ、そのリアル感が急に脳裏に浮かんできて、涙が出そうになったんだ

そんな当たり前のこともわかっていなかった自分に改めて腹が立った

あくまで歴史の出来事と捉えていた自分の傲慢さだ。歴史の出来事なんかじゃない。これは本当にあった人と人の物語なんだと。人と人の物語があったからこそ、今の横石たちがいる。当たり前すぎることを教科書で学んだだけで分かった気になっていたのが情けなかった。

でもここで改めて学べてよかった

改めて手を合わせてまた歩き出す

ここから3キロほど南へ行ったところにあるのがもう一つの訪れたかった場所。ひめゆりの塔だ

道端に揺れるさとうきび畑から流れてくる風を吸い込んで、

ひめゆりの塔に到着

ここは沖縄戦の時に学徒の看護婦として激しい戦場の中陸軍病院に送り出された沖縄県立第1高等女学校の女子生徒たちを慰霊した場所

資料館もあったので、もちろん入館して勉強することに

ひめゆり隊員たちのストーリーと並行しながらさらに沖縄戦を深く学ぶ

彼女らの学校は沖縄随一の名門だったらしく、そんな未来ある彼女らまで戦火の渦に呑まれたと思うとどうにもいたたまれなくなってしまう

さらに、個人個人のストーリーを覗かせてもらうことで、歴史がさらに肌感を持って頭の中に入ってくる

犠牲になった100余名の顔と性格とどうやって亡くなったかまで正確に載せられている資料を見ていると、それだけで胸がたまらなく締め付けられる。

15歳という若さで敵陣に突入していった女の子、重傷の友を背負って死んでいった女の子、ガス弾にやられて即死した女の子、どれもこれも目を背けたくなるような、かといって実際にあった本当の出来事だ。

そしてふと、ある女の子の資料に目がいった

可愛らしい女の子で、最期はひめゆり隊が解散になった後に南部戦線で犠牲になった女の子だ

その女の子の最期の言葉

「もう一度弾の降らない空の下を大手を振って歩きたい」

これを見た瞬間、今日一日我慢していた涙が溢れた。

「そうか、今俺がこうして当たり前のように歩いて旅をしていることそれ自体、この時代には決して当たり前じゃないことだった」

鉄の雨が降り注いだあの時から、現代に至るまで、自分たちは決して忘れてはならない尊すぎる命の上に立って生活しているんだと。

決して、決して、もう繰り返してはならない過去なのだと。重すぎる犠牲の上の今なのだと。そう改めて思うし、こればっかりは偉そうながら皆さんに伝えるべき事実だと思ったのでここに記しておく

さとうきび畑は静かに、止まることなく揺れていた。

歩行距離 29キロ

沖縄県南城市→那覇市

総歩行距離 3956キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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