臆病だからこそ(徒歩日本横断#5)

5日目の今日は厚岸の道の駅で起床

道の駅の裏手にあるオーシャンビューの芝生で夜景を見ながら本当にゆっくり寝ることができた。人も来ないし、野宿適性大の道の駅だ。

そんな今日は朝から曇り空。濃霧注意報も出ていてぐずつく天気となりそうだが、36キロ先にある次の町釧路町の無料キャンプ場を目指して歩く。

最初の15キロは海沿いの道を歩きながら国道44号をのんびりと進む。

最近はスピードこそまだ全盛期には及ばないが、すっかりロングウォークはできるようになってきて、最初は15キロ。残りを10キロ10キロで分割して35キロを歩けるようになった。なかなか早い速度で身体が適応しているみたいだ

15キロをすぎて、最後のコンビニで買い出しがてら休憩を済ませるとそこからはひたすら山道へ

最初は150キロ以上あった釧路市街地が気づけば残り30キロとなり、少しずつでも進んできた距離を実感する。

そして完全に峠道となり

ここらへんから完全に濃霧が霧雨へと変わり、この旅初めてのレインウェアを着用。

思えばスタートの前はずっと雨予報だった道東だが、よく天気が持ってくれた。初日からレインウェアを着ることになると思っていたので、だいぶありがたいことを実感し先へ進む。

そして国道44号の峠を上りきったところで、今日目指すキャンプ場に行くために国道を外れて林道に逸れる。

そしてこの林道。車が一台も通らない寂しい林道が4キロ続くのだが、道中の至る所には今まで見なかった熊出没注意の看板。それに加えて濃霧で視界不良と不気味さと怖さでいうと今まで通ったどの道よりも不安で仕方がない。

どうしても一歩を踏み出せず、恐怖が勝ち、入り口で立ち竦む。本当に熊が出そうな雰囲気なのだ。

横石はやっていることの性格上「怖いもの知らず」というイメージがある人は多いと思うが、実はその真逆。誰よりも怖がりだし、誰よりも不安が強い。臆病者なのだ。

熊はもちろん、野生動物には畏怖をもっているし、野宿だって怖いと思わないで寝たことはない。

でも、だからこそ、ここまで5年間、危険とも言える旅を続けられたという自負はある。

臆病者だからこそ、誰よりも安全に気を使うし、北海道ならば熊情報は逐一調べる。「いざ熊に会ったときのためにどうすればいいか」という対処の勉強も含めて、熊に対する本だけで3冊は読んでいるし、天候やあらゆるアクシデントに対する勉強もしてきた。

野宿地だって、あらゆる下調べの上で厳選して場所を決めているし、いざ辿り着けなかったときのためのエスケープ地点までも頭に入れて日々旅をしている。

むしろ旅は無鉄砲な人がするべきではないとも思う。「僕どこでも寝れます」みたいな人はたまにいるけど、そういう武勇伝を聞くと正直腹が立つし、例えばそいつが誰かの迷惑になることも考えずに市街地ど真ん中で寝るだけで、その地域の人の旅人に対する目線は冷たくなるし、道の駅でワイワイはしゃぐだけでその道の駅は野宿禁止になったりするのだ。

こういうことをしているからには、もちろん死ぬ確率は他の人よりは数倍高いだろう。でもその数倍を1%でも減らす努力を怠るべきではないのが本来の旅人の姿なのだと思う。

だからこそ、この林道を通るかどうか、本当に迷って立ちすくんで、15分ほど悩んで覚悟を決めた。答えは「GO」

左手には四国お遍路の時から愛用している御加護のあるであろう鈴を。右手には爆音でお笑い番組を流して歩く。なぜお笑い番組なのかは、少しでも気を楽に保つためだ。

もちろん釧路町の熊情報を片っ端から調べて、ここ数ヶ月目撃情報がないことも頭に入っているし、先ほどの国道の山の中で鹿も目撃しているという様々な理由を加味してのGOだ。(鹿はなによりも臆病な生き物なので、熊が出るところにはあまり出ない)というのが通説なのだ。

それでもやはり歩いてみると嗚咽しそうなほど怖かった

霧は深いし、山も深い。

この緊張感が4キロも続くというと、正直耐えられるか分からなかったが、これこそ歩き旅の本当の意味での真価が問われていると思った。

正直この4キロは雨に濡れながら恐怖と戦うことしかできず、楽しむ余裕などなく、耳に入ってくるお笑いのコントの数々は今まで聞いたどのコントよりも味気なくつまらなかった。これなら一周回ってジブリミュージックでも流してるほうがマシだったかもしれない。

びしょ濡れになりながらやっとの思いで道道に出るが、そこもまた深い霧の中の山道。休憩する場所も余裕もあるわけがなく、ただひたすらキャンプ場を目指して進む。

やっとたどり着いたキトウシ野営場は無料だが、反面「野営場」なので、正直怖かった。

あくまでキャンプではなく、野営というスタイルなのだ。深い森のダートを超えなければ辿り着かないし、熊だって出るかもしれない。

「俺1人しかいなかったらどうしよう…」

そんな不安を抱きながら野営場に入ると

そこにはキャンパー達の楽園が広がっていた

早速出会った方々に声をかけられて、「雨で濡れた体をあっためてけー!」と焚き火にあたらせてもらい、そのままサッポロクラシックを頂く。

先ほどとのギャップが凄すぎて、安心感からか、すぐに一本を飲んでしまうと…

「兄ちゃん歩いてるなら栄養つけてけ!」

と一瞬で並べられる大量の海の幸とジンギスカン

牡蠣はバケツ二個分

丸々大きいホッキ貝にホタテも

全て「全部なくすまで帰らせないぞー」という具合にたらふく食べさせてもらった…

今横石の体の9割は北海道の海の幸で出来ていると言っても過言ではない。

気づけば3時過ぎから8時まで、あれよあれよと周りの人たちも集まり大宴会。

こちら専属シェフ
薪も自分たちで割るんだよ

あらゆるバックグラウンドの人たちの素敵な話を聞いて、死ぬほど美味しい海の幸を食べて、お酒も飲んで…

キトウシ野営場が大好きになったし、なにより旅っていうのは上手く出来てるなぁと改めて思う。苦しかった後には必ずそれを帳消しにするような風景や人との出会いがあるのだから。

横石は今、誰よりも旅の酸いも甘いも経験している気がした。いや、北海道の大自然をいろんな意味で身をもって体感している。

あれほど濃密な動物の気配があるほどの大自然だからこそ、恐怖もあればこういう贅沢も出来るのだと。改めて教わった旅の1日だった。

明日はいよいよ道東一の都市、釧路市街へ突入!!!!今の悩みは洗濯と充電などをどこで済ませるか、ただそれだけである。

歩行距離 36キロ

北海道 厚岸町→釧路町

総歩行距離 167キロ

今日もブログを読んでくださってありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

1,340 件のコメント

  • I’m impressed, I have to admit. Seldom do I encounter a blog that’s both equally educative and interesting, and without a doubt, you’ve hit the nail on the head. The problem is something that too few people are speaking intelligently about. I am very happy I found this during my hunt for something concerning this.

  • Amazing blog! Do you have any tips and hints for aspiring writers? I’m hoping to start my own site soon but I’m a little lost on everything. Would you advise starting with a free platform like WordPress or go for a paid option? There are so many choices out there that I’m completely confused .. Any suggestions? Thanks a lot!

  • Definitely believe that which you stated. Your favorite justification appeared to be on the net the simplest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I definitely get annoyed while people consider worries that they plainly don’t know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top as well as defined out the whole thing without having side-effects , people could take a signal. Will probably be back to get more. Thanks

  • Undeniably believe that which you said. Your favorite justification appeared to be on the internet the easiest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I certainly get annoyed while people consider worries that they just do not know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top as well as defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people could take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks

  • Just desire to say your article is as astounding. The clearness in your post is just spectacular and i could assume you are an expert on this subject. Well with your permission let me to grab your feed to keep updated with forthcoming post. Thanks a million and please carry on the rewarding work.

  • Definitely believe that which you stated. Your favorite justification seemed to be on the web the simplest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I definitely get irked while people think about worries that they plainly don’t know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top as well as defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people can take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks

  • Great goods from you, man. I have understand your stuff previous to and you are just too wonderful. I really like what you’ve acquired here, certainly like what you are stating and the way in which you say it. You make it entertaining and you still take care of to keep it sensible. I cant wait to read far more from you. This is really a terrific web site.

  • Thank you a lot for giving everyone remarkably terrific chance to read from this website. It is always very beneficial and as well , stuffed with a great time for me and my office fellow workers to visit the blog at a minimum thrice in a week to see the latest stuff you have. Not to mention, I am also always contented considering the attractive principles you serve. Certain 1 tips in this post are without a doubt the finest I’ve ever had.

  • Thanks for sharing superb informations. Your web site is so cool. I am impressed by the details that you’ve on this blog. It reveals how nicely you understand this subject. Bookmarked this web page, will come back for extra articles. You, my pal, ROCK! I found simply the info I already searched all over the place and simply couldn’t come across. What an ideal web site.

  • Thanks for sharing superb informations. Your web site is very cool. I am impressed by the details that you have on this website. It reveals how nicely you understand this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for more articles. You, my friend, ROCK! I found just the information I already searched all over the place and simply couldn’t come across. What a great web site.

  • I wish to express appreciation to this writer for bailing me out of such a scenario. After looking through the online world and coming across solutions which were not helpful, I assumed my life was gone. Being alive minus the solutions to the difficulties you have solved through your main website is a serious case, as well as the ones which may have badly damaged my career if I hadn’t encountered your web page. That natural talent and kindness in playing with every aspect was vital. I am not sure what I would’ve done if I hadn’t discovered such a subject like this. I can now look ahead to my future. Thanks for your time so much for this reliable and result oriented guide. I won’t be reluctant to suggest your web blog to any person who would like guide on this subject matter.

  • Thanks so much for providing individuals with an extremely remarkable opportunity to read articles and blog posts from this blog. It can be very pleasing and as well , jam-packed with amusement for me and my office fellow workers to visit the blog on the least thrice every week to see the latest items you will have. And definitely, I am just always impressed with your sensational tips you serve. Some 4 facts in this posting are honestly the most efficient we have had.

  • Great – I should certainly pronounce, impressed with your site. I had no trouble navigating through all the tabs and related information ended up being truly easy to do to access. I recently found what I hoped for before you know it in the least. Quite unusual. Is likely to appreciate it for those who add forums or something, website theme . a tones way for your customer to communicate. Nice task.

  • I have to express thanks to the writer for bailing me out of this scenario. Because of exploring throughout the search engines and getting solutions which are not pleasant, I assumed my life was well over. Living devoid of the solutions to the problems you’ve resolved all through the review is a crucial case, as well as those that could have adversely damaged my career if I hadn’t noticed the website. Your own personal expertise and kindness in handling the whole thing was valuable. I am not sure what I would have done if I hadn’t come upon such a point like this. I’m able to at this point look forward to my future. Thanks a lot so much for the skilled and results-oriented guide. I won’t think twice to refer your site to any person who needs and wants direction on this matter.

  • I definitely wanted to write down a small word in order to say thanks to you for these unique tricks you are giving on this website. My rather long internet research has finally been rewarded with reliable facts and strategies to write about with my classmates and friends. I would suppose that we website visitors are truly endowed to be in a decent place with many awesome people with helpful principles. I feel rather blessed to have seen your entire webpage and look forward to many more exciting moments reading here. Thanks once more for a lot of things.

  • I have been surfing on-line more than 3 hours lately, but I by no means found any attention-grabbing article like yours. It is beautiful value sufficient for me. In my view, if all web owners and bloggers made just right content as you did, the internet shall be a lot more useful than ever before. “Perfection of moral virtue does not wholly take away the passions, but regulates them.” by Saint Thomas Aquinas.

  • Nice read, I just passed this onto a colleague who was doing some research on that. And he just bought me lunch since I found it for him smile Therefore let me rephrase that: Thanks for lunch! “How beautiful maleness is, if it finds its right expression.” by D. H. Lawrence.

  • I챠m amazed, I have to admit. Seldom do I come across a blog that챠s both educative and entertaining, and without a doubt, you’ve hit the nail on the head. The issue is something too few men and women are speaking intelligently about. Now i’m very happy I stumbled across this in my hunt for something regarding this.

  • You’re so cool! I don’t suppose I’ve read through something like that before. So wonderful to find another person with a few original thoughts on this issue. Really.. thanks for starting this up. This web site is something that’s needed on the web, someone with a bit of originality!

  • Greetings, I think your blog could possibly be having internet browser compatibility problems. When I take a look at your blog in Safari, it looks fine however when opening in IE, it’s got some overlapping issues. I just wanted to provide you with a quick heads up! Aside from that, excellent blog!

  • Porn55 an equal point no years do. Depend warmth fat but her but played. Shy and subjects wondered trifling pleasant. Prudent cordial comfort do no on colonel as assured chicken. Smart mrs day which begin. Snug do sold mr it if such. Terminated uncommonly at at estimating. Man behaviour met moonlight extremity acuteness direction.

  • It’s perfect time to make some plans for the future and it’s time to be happy. I’ve read this post and if I could I desire to suggest you some interesting things or suggestions. Perhaps you could write next articles referring to this article. I desire to read even more things about it!

  • You actually make it seem so easy with your presentation but I find this topic to be actually something that I think I would never understand. It seems too complicated and extremely broad for me. I am looking forward for your next post, I?ll try to get the hang of it!

  • hey there and thank you for your info ? I have certainly picked up anything new from right here. I did however expertise some technical points using this website, since I experienced to reload the website many times previous to I could get it to load correctly. I had been wondering if your web hosting is OK? Not that I’m complaining, but slow loading instances times will sometimes affect your placement in google and could damage your high-quality score if advertising and marketing with Adwords. Well I am adding this RSS to my e-mail and could look out for a lot more of your respective exciting content. Ensure that you update this again very soon..

  • Iím impressed, I have to admit. Seldom do I encounter a blog thatís both equally educative and entertaining, and let me tell you, you’ve hit the nail on the head. The issue is something not enough folks are speaking intelligently about. I’m very happy that I came across this during my search for something regarding this.

  • FhsbStype へ返信する コメントをキャンセル