徒歩日本縦断

これが広島（徒歩日本縦断#92）

92日目の今日は東広島の公園で起床

市街地の駅から500mしか離れていないのに人一人来ない静かな公園で「うわ！ここ最強！穴場発見！」なんてテンション上がって寝てたのに、午前3時くらいから10分おきに目がさめる

原因は寒さだ

ここ東広島の西条は標高250ほどあり、しかも盆地で底冷えがひどいらしく、今朝も3度ほどまで下がっていた。

ちなみに横石の寝袋の快適温度は8度までなので、超冬用に着込んで寝ても寒いものは寒いのだ。

「死ぬぞこれ」ってほどは着込んでるし、寒くないのだが、気持ちよく寝れるわけでもなく、半分寝不足で朝を迎えてしまった。

しかしここは公園だし、寝過ごすわけにもいかずに6時半には凍える手でテントを片付けて7時過ぎに出発。

今日は35キロ歩いて広島市街へ

その後さらに8キロ歩いて招待されている広島お好み焼き屋さんへいく。

寒さに関しては、「ま、歩き出せば温かくなるやろ」くらいの勢いで歩き出したが、朝のうちの冷え込みは末端にくる。手が半分死んだ状態になって慌てて手袋を装着して東広島市街の細道を抜けていく

そして5キロほど細道を歩くと、国道二号線に合流。

ここからは15キロほどひたすら緩く山を下っていくボーナスタイムだ。

靴もほぼ完璧に馴染んだので、やっといつも通りの歩行スピードと疲労感で歩くことが出来ている。しかもこんなにボーナスな道は滅多にない。歩き旅だと、下り坂でも急な坂は登り以上に疲れるときがあるので、緩い下り坂は本当にありがたいのだ。

ただ一つ問題があるとすれば、国道二号線のくせに山を下る最初の10キロは全く歩道もなく路肩もなく、割とトラックとスレスレで歩かされていたことか。いくらこんな状況も慣れているとは言っても怖いものは怖い

だけど秋真っ盛りの山道でしかも下りとなると気持ちいいし、10キロを過ぎて仕舞えばあとは歩道をのんびり歩くことができる

そして坂道もだんだんと平坦になっていき

のどかな集落が点々とする川沿いの道へと繋がっていく。ここらへんはのどかなのだが、未だに西日本豪雨の復旧作業が途中で生々しくもあった

気づけばあんなに寒かったのにノースリーブになるほどに身体も温まり、足も良い感じに温まり、今日は調子がいいみたいだ。

歩調もそれに合わせて早くなっていき、午前中に20キロ歩いて山を下り終えた頃に

道は瀬野川沿いの道になったので、しばらくは河原を歩くことに。

まるで小さな京都鴨川のように地元の方々の生活の一部となっている場所だったようで、道行く人と気持ちよく挨拶を交わしながら進んでいく

途中、中国地方の名物コンビニポプラに折角なので寄って昼食を済ませて

相変わらず広島市街まだあと10キロとは思えないのどかな川沿いを進んでいたが、だんだんと高い建物は増えていって

あっという間に100万人都市広島っぽく住宅街の中に突入した。

それにしても広島はいい街だ

このくらい旅してれば、いい街かどうかの判断は子供達でわかるようになる。

広島の子供達は満点レベル

挨拶もきちんとしてくれるし、横断歩道を渡るときは手を挙げるし、なにより素直に「頑張ってください！」とか「すげぇー！」とか声をかけてくれるのが本当になによりの励みになる

この素直さと元気さはいくつになっても見習わなきゃいけないなぁなんて改めて思うわけだ

ちなみにどことは言わないが、あまりいい街ではないとこういうことは一切ないので本当に両極端なのだ。

「子供はその地域の鏡」とはよく言ったものだ

そんな子供たちに笑顔をもらって、

おっちゃんには差し入れをもらって

「ああ、やっぱ広島いい街…」なんてしみじみ思いながら大都会ゾーンへ

大阪以来の100万人都市に少し圧倒されながらも平和大通りを進んで、目指すのはただ一つ。

そう平和記念公園だ。

自転車日本一周の時にも訪れたが、改装工事もしたらしいし、なによりあれから四年が経ち、日本をさらに深く旅し続けた今だからこそ感じることもあるのではないかと思ってどうしても再訪したかったのだ。

記念公園に辿り着くと、やはり聖域のような空気感。この大都会の中に突如訪れる静けさと祈りの空間はそれだけでも何かを考えさせられるほど異質なのだ。

どこかの修学旅行？の中学生が式典をやっていたので、代表のスピーチを最後まで聞いて黙祷を捧げて、原爆資料館の中へ。

実はここ、横石が訪れた2016年の次の2017年から今年まで改装で閉館していたので、まさに示し合わせたかのようにまた今年も運良く訪れることが出来た。

改装した後の展示を見て思ったのは「人」によりフォーカスした展示になっていること。

亡くなった人、遺された人々、その周りの人々、その全ての方々のエピソードにフォーカスしていて、感情移入をより深くすることができる。

ちなみに改装前は今よりも生々しい展示が多かった。それは言ってみれば「グロイ」とも言えてしまうのだが、その生々しさで感じる悲惨さもあった。その分改装後はより小さい子供でも見やすくなっていたのだ。

ここまでは読書感想文みたいになってしまったが、「人」にフォーカスした展示の意味は本当に大きくて、最初はうるさくて煩わしかった小学生たちが気付けば無言で展示を真剣にみている。中には涙を流す子供もいる。その涙は決してグロいから、怖いから、泣くのでは無いと思う。もちろんその気持ちもないわけではないと思うが、それ以上に「人」とはなにか、「生きる」とはなにかを幼心に感じ取っているに違いない。

さらにたくさんいた外国の方々も気づけば目が潤んで、精悍な顔つきで展示を眺める。

そして横石はというと、また今年も展示は写真に撮ることが出来なかった。なんていうんだろう。カメラを向ける行為自体が失礼だし、もったいない気がした。多分今後いくら来ても、この展示は写真には収められないと思う。その覚悟は永遠にできなくていい。

そして展示を見ていると、ふいに今さっき広島市街を歩いていて笑顔で挨拶を交わした小学生たち、それに今までの旅で出会ったたくさんの人たちの笑顔が思い浮かんで、涙が出そうになる

何気ない日常を一瞬で奪った原子爆弾という戦争兵器。そのかけがえのない犠牲の上に立って今横石たちは生きているし、子供達は笑って街を歩けている。その事実を決して忘れてはいけないのだと、そして二度とこの子たちの笑顔を絶やすわけにはいかないのだと、そう誰もが思える場所が原爆資料館なのだと。

資料館を後にして平和記念公園の外に出た


原爆ドームを前に国境、年齢問わず沢山の人たちが黙祷を捧げている。

そして強く思う。

ここは負の遺産なんかではないと。

言い方に語弊があって不快な思いをする方がいたらあらかじめ謝っておきたいが、日本中旅をし続けてきた横石が言うんだから間違いない。

だってさ、こんなに世界中の人が訪れて、ただ一心に平和に対する祈りを捧げる場所、他にはない。過去から現在、そして未来永劫に繋がる人々の祈りが詰まってる場所なんだと。

そんな場所を負の遺産と呼ぶにはあまりに忍びないし、ここはたしかに悲惨な歴史の場所だけど、それはあくまで歴史なんだと。人は歴史に学ばなければいけない。そして今はその歴史を繰り返すまいと全人類が平和に祈りを捧げる場所になっているのだと。だからここは負の遺産などではないんだと。そう思う。

「日本を知る」というのはこういうことなのかな、と再確認できる場所だった。

そうして横石は歩く。

そう、お好み焼きへと向かって。

明日には広島を出るので最終日の夜は美味しい思いをしにいくのだ。

市街から8キロほど離れた五日市周辺にある「ちんちくりん」というお好み焼き居酒屋の店員さんがフォロワーで今日ご招待されたのだ。

しかもその子は20歳で分割して自転車で日本一周しているそう。まるで昔の横石とそっくりなので是非話を聞きたかったし、アドバイス出来ることがあれば老害にならない範囲でしてあげたかった。そして美味いものを食べたかった笑

6時過ぎに辿り着くと、店の前で待ってくれて大きな手を振って迎えてくれた好青年。

早速お店にお邪魔して、皆さんに挨拶をしたあとはお勧めを次々といただく。

肉料理に、牡蠣に、広島お好み焼き…

「食べたいもの好きなだけ、飲みたいもの好きなだけどうぞ！」というお言葉に甘えて、本当に美味しい数々を満腹を越えるまでいただいて、ビールも5杯くらい久しぶりに飲んでしまった…これを幸せというのか…

なにより全員20歳くらいという自分と同じ世代の若い子たちに囲まれて色んな夢の話を聞けたのが何よりのパワーになった。

横石まだまだ負けてられません。

「また帰ってきてください！」とまぁ感動する言葉を言われて、まるでお兄ちゃんになったようななかなか味わえない気分を味わえた。

「ちんちくりん 生口店」本当に全部美味しかったし、なによりスタッフが輝くステキなお店でした！みんな東京きたら言ってね！最高のおもてなしするよ！今度は是非彼の旅の話をつまみにゆっくりお酒を飲めたらなぁと思うおじさんなのでした。

広島にもステキなご縁が出来て大満足の横石

今日はこのまま近くのネットカフェで寝ることに…

明日はいよいよ山口県に入る。本州最後にいい旅路を描けるといいな。

歩行距離 43キロ

広島県東広島市→広島市

総歩行距離 3235キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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Try These Tips To Streamline Your Marco Bitran Appointment. The very first settlers pertained to this area 10,000 years earlier and called. They logged the hillsides to develop pipes and barns. Boston – wood rattlesnakes, coyote and otters. If you are into motion pictures and television Boston has a walking trip that you must not miss. Another stop that needs to be on your list of things to do in Boston is going to the museum of bad art. You can check out a museum of fantastic works of art anywhere in the nation however in Boston you can really check out a museum dedicated to bad artwork. There are many other things to do in Boston during the summer season however these are a few that you ought to not miss out on. Wherever you decide to go once you get there Boston is an excellent place to check out on getaway or on service alone or with the household Boston is a fantastic place. Marco Bitran is a now a good member at the Boston Sailing Center. In addition to taking for memberships to the club Marco Bitran, they also provide courses on sailing. There are some club membership options available. This depends upon the boat you own or would like. Apart from the individual lessons you could get, there are general lessons Marco Bitran can enroll in. This includes basic sailing skills. Staying in Boston for a couple of numbers of days is not a problem because there are instructional programs designed for that purpose. There are choices too for members who will be here for a brief period of time. You can jumpstart your sailing skills through taking private lessons with professional people.

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