最果ての孤島はゲロ船という名の監獄(re:日本一周#36.37)


36日目

鹿児島空港の朝は晴れていた

いよいよ沖縄へ飛び立つ

目指すは八重山諸島の中心 石垣島だ

やっぱり飛行機はワクワクする

ロマンが詰まってる

まずは鹿児島空港10時発のフライトで那覇へ

那覇から石垣島へそのまま乗り継ぐ

沖縄初上陸で石垣島へ行けるなんてなんて贅沢なんだろうか

窓からみる海は思い描く「沖縄」そのままだった

サンゴの海がこんなにも美しいなんて

上陸する前からワクワクが止まらない

そしていよいよ

南ぬ島(ぱいぬしま)へ

この日は民宿で休む

というのもこれから旅する八重山諸島は観光が重要な産業なので、野宿はせずに安宿でもいいから宿やキャンプ場に泊まるのが暗黙の了解なのだ。

そして今日の宿へ

民宿 ふがらっさ

受付に行くと

受付がいない代わりにこんな文字が

「いやなんでやねん!」と思いつつも、早速沖縄のなんくるないさー精神に触れた気がした

そして静かに石垣1日目の夜は更けていく

37日目

この日は朝から雨だった

しかもなかなかの雨

だがしかし、こんな日にも関わらずヨコイシは船に乗った

海は大しけ、欠航も危ぶまれた中での船出

向かう先は最果ての孤島

日本最西端の島 与那国島だ

与那国島は石垣島からさらにフェリーで4時間離れた最果ての孤島

黒潮の潮流が複雑で、過去数多くの船が沈んだ与那国航路は別名「渡難(どなん)」の島と言われるほどに厳しい航海だったらしい

今となってはフェリー与那国の力で沈む心配もないが、やはり厳しい航海なのは違いなく、フェリー与那国は別名「ゲロ船」と言われて旅人に恐れられている

そんな船がギリギリ欠航になるかならないかの末の出航。ヨコイシも洗礼を浴びることになる

入った瞬間現れるのは嘔吐専用の流し

今まで何人の旅人がこの場でマーライオンしたのだろうか。せめてこの場でマーライオン出来るだけ正気であってくれと自分自身を律しながら、いざ出航の時間を迎える

出発して1時間も経つと黒潮の潮流に入ったらしい。船の中は一気にカオスになる

まるで洗濯機のように揺れる車内

だれかが嘔吐する音

その音にもらいゲロしそうになるヨコイシ

まさに監獄そのものだった

ひたすら耐えるしかなかった

人生で初めて煩悩を捨てられた気がする

無になって(半分気絶して)気づけば船内に歓声が上がった

「見えたぞ!」

その声を頼りに残る力を振り絞って外へ

断崖絶壁に囲まれた絶海の孤島が見えた

船の周りを海鳥が飛び交う

水しぶきに乗じてトビウオが舞う

まさに「さいはて」にやってきた

そんな気持ちだ

もう気分は冒険者だった

そんな冒険者の宿はゲストハウスおじーの家

味のある造りで、中に入れば

旅人たちが集う居間があった

といってもこの日はヨコイシ一人しかいなく

ヘルパー(住み込みのお手伝いさん)として与那国に来ていた渚さん(今だから書けるけど美人なお姉さんだよ)と2人きりの夜ご飯に

ほんとは素泊まりなのに、渚さんにご飯も作ってもらっちゃって、素敵な夜を過ごした

こうしてこれから4日間過ごす与那国の日々が始まった

今日も最後まで見てくださってありがとうございます!最後に下の日本一周自転車ボタンを押してくださるとブログランキングが上がるので是非お願いします!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周(自転車)へ


にほんブログ村

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