自転車日本一周 1年目

西の果て（re:日本一周#38）

与那国の夜は野宿と変わらない

おじーの家と言うゲストハウスにいるはずなのに、泥棒なんて絶対にいないだろう絶海の孤島はどうやら鍵を閉める文化が無いらしい

網戸も閉めないおじーの家には大量の蚊がフリーパスで入って来た

お陰でベッドで寝れても蚊の音で寝れない

やっと眠れたと思ったらヤモリが身体を這う

「これが南国のゲストハウスかぁ…」

なんて一周回って感心してたら朝を迎えてしまった

今日の予定は特にない

というか石垣に帰るフェリーが出るのは四日後だから（週2便しか出ない）時間がありすぎて予定を詰めても意味がないのだ。

しかも外は相変わらず天気が悪い

今まで晴れ男だったのが嘘のように沖縄に来てから晴れ間を見ていない

とりあえず島の天気は変わりやすいともいうし、居間でゴロゴロしながら様子見

12時を回って、お昼ご飯を食べてから相変わらずうとうとしていると目の前が眩しくなる

「日が出て来た！青空や！」

神様はヨコイシを見放してはいなかった

ここに来て雨雲ばかりの天気から一転、青空が与那国を包み込んだ

ここぞとばかりに走りだした

一周25キロしかない小さな島だ、青空が覗いているうちにどうしても日本最西端の地までは…

はやる思いで走る

ここがまるで日本じゃないかのように何もない道が続く。荒廃した異世界に迷い込んだような寂しさだ

なんて寂しいんだろうか

周りを断崖絶壁に囲まれている孤島だからだろうか。今自分が走っているのが、生命の息絶えた無人島のような気がして仕方ない

久しぶりの青空を心待ちにしていたように踊る花を見て、寂しさは無くなる

むしろこの孤島の厳しい環境で生き抜いて来た花は力強く、まっすぐに上を向いていた

さとうきび畑を見て、初めて人間がいたことを思い出す。背丈ほどもあるさとうきびは沖縄に来たことを歓迎するかのように風になびく

かくれんぼしたら一生迷子になりそうだ

島の子供達はこういうところで遊ぶのだろうか

きっと素敵な少年時代なんだろうなぁ

製糖工場からの甘い香りに包まれてさ

沖縄独特のどこかむわっとした風に押されながら

どこまでも青い海に飛び込んで、サンゴと一緒に育つのだろうか

それとも何もないことを嘆いて東京に憧れるのだろうか

そんなことはよそ者の俺にはわからないけど、間違いなくここで育った子供たちは綺麗な目をしているんだろうなぁということだけは分かる

さぁ、エメラルドグリーンの海が目の前に広がった。こんなに綺麗な海なのに誰もいない、独り占めだ。

そしてすぐそこに「日本最西端の地」は見えていた

この岬が日本最西端の西崎だ

西崎とかいて「いりざき」と読む

太陽が日本で最後に沈むから「太陽が入る」ということだ。

ちなみに与那国で一番東の岬は東崎とかいて「あがりざき」

もう意味はわかるだろう

昔の人は本当に風流な、粋の心を持っている

日本最西端の岬がそんな名前だったら、いやでもロマンが止まらなくなるじゃんか

そして今日、埼玉を旅立って38日

初心者のペーぺーだったヨコイシは、真夏の太陽の下で真っ黒に日焼けして、雨も風も暑さも夜も山も、全てを乗り越えて日本最西端の地に自分の足でたどり着く。

ここから先は日本じゃない。東京までは3000キロもあるくせに、台湾までは100キロしかない

本当に日本の果てまで来たんだ

そう思うと鳥肌が止まらなかった

一人で心ゆくまで叫んだ

叫んで叫んで叫んだ

真っ黒に日焼けした肌が、今は少し誇らしかった

そんな最西端に辿り着いた喜びを爆発させ

ひとしきり浸ったら

また新たな場所に向かって走り始める

与那国の中心地、祖納という集落の宿から最西端の久部良という集落まで来ていて、これから比川という南の集落に向かって走る

幸いまだ天気は青空だったし、なにより比川にはDr.コトーのロケ地となった診療所がある

少ししか見たことはなかったけど、ミーハー精神で走り始めた

Dr.コトー診療所にたどり着くと、そこには最果ての診療所、あの時みたそのままの風景があった

中に入ると

味のある受付に

海が見えるベッド

事務室。全てがあの日のままだった

受付に置かれていたふがらっさの文字

その意味は与那国の言葉で「ありがとう」

あぁ、俺が石垣で泊まってたあの宿、そういえば「ふがらっさ」って名前だった

初めて意味を知った時、少し心がほんわかした

そうして与那国の束の間の晴れ間を堪能して、この日は宿に戻る。新しくおじちゃんが宿に泊まって、少しだけ賑やかな夜になった

今日も最後まで見ていただきありがとうございます！最後に下の日本一周自転車ボタンを押していただけるとブログランキングが上がるので是非お願いします！

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