少年の見る風景は(徒歩日本縦断#5)

5日目の今日は初山別村の無料キャンプ場からスタート。

リヤカーに積んでいた荷物を朝、カラスに漁られて(カラスがこんなにいるとは思わなかった…)カラスの音で目が覚めた時には、食パンが宙を舞っていた。

まだ食パンだけで良かったが、さらに不幸なことに4時に起こされ、カラスにいつ荒らされるかわからない状況で二度寝できるわけもなく、朝5時にはタクマを起こして準備を始める。

これ以上リヤカーの荷物が宙を舞ったらたまったもんじゃない。

そして5時半には出発

雨が降ったり止んだらを繰り返す怪しい天気

午後からの降水確率は60パーセント

目的地の30キロ先にある苫前のキャンプ場に本格的に雨に降られる前にたどり着こうと歩き出す

本日の旅路

朝方降っていた雨も歩き出す頃には止み、ただひたすらアップダウンのある道を歩く

そして開始7キロほど。山道を下っていた時に突然昨日痛んだ左足首が痛む。

一歩前に出すたびに思わず声が出そうになるほど痛む。

流石にこのまま進めないと判断して、道端に止まってストレッチ

重いバックパックを背負い続けてきた弊害が足首に出たようだ

荷物を降ろしてしっかり足首をケアすると瞬く間に痛みは薄れたが、これ以上痛くなっても困るのでリヤカーを横石が引っ張ってタクマがバックパックを背負うスタイルに変えてしばらく旅を続ける作戦を取る。(今まではなんとなくタクマがリヤカーを引いて横石がバックパックを背負うスタイルだったのだ)

リヤカーにはリヤカーの辛さはもちろんあって、リヤカーとバックパックどっちが辛いかなんて一概には言えないが、(引っ張る重さと持つ腕の疲れなど)左足首は完全にバックパックの重さでやられていたらしく、リヤカーを持ってからはみるみるうちに回復してきた。


身体にのしかかっていた荷重から解放され、ぐんぐんとオロロンラインを進む

曇ってはいるものの、流石に北海道随一の絶景を誇る道路なだけあって歩きだからこそ気づくふとした魅力に魅了されながら歩く

「あの黄色い花の名前はなんだろう?」

「あの今は使われていない古びた建物はなんだったんだろう?」

「あ、ホクレンフラッグが泥だらけで落ちていた」

道に落ちていた北海道のホクレンガソリンスタンド限定のフラッグ。道北と道南のフラッグを拾って、泥を洗って新たな旅の相棒としてリヤカーの上を風にはためいている

「あ、次はミヤマクワガタが落ちてた!かっちょいい!」

「めっちゃ可愛いポニー?がこっちを見てる。少し挨拶しに行ってやるか」

「歩く」というのは現代社会において究極に非効率で究極に時間のかかる行為だ。それで日本を縦断するなんて本当にアホ極まりない挑戦かもしれないが、その行為だからこそ見える風景は確実にあることに2人は気づき始めていた。

自転車でさえ気づくことのなかった道端の花や虫にまで目が止まってしまうんだから不思議なものだ。

まるで少年時代にまだ背が小さかった頃

その頃は周りの世界が今より大きく見えて、空は今よりずっと高く、地面は今よりずっと近い存在だった。

出会うもの全てが輝いていて、毎日過ぎるのがあっという間。

まさに今そんな感覚を味わっていた

そして沢山の出会いもある

今日もフランスから家族で自転車旅をしている方達とお話ししたり

大阪からバイク旅をしている方に声をかけられたり

温泉に入れば、2人の日焼けが異常だからか、次々と声をかけられて、男同士裸の付き合いで露天風呂で話し込んだり

この旅はとにかく退屈しない(いや、何も無いとき、辛いときは「無」になっているから退屈しているのかもしれないが、それは自分と向き合う旅だから仕方ないと思っている)相方がいることも退屈しない大きな要因かもしれない

そんなことを思いながら今日のキャンプ場に辿り着いた。

たどり着いた瞬間、雨が強くなってくる

どうやら明日は1日大雨らしい

管理人さんのご好意で管理棟の軒下にテントを貼らせてもらえることになったので、今日はゆっくり寝れそうだ。

あしたも雨なので、疲労と痛みが蓄積した身体を癒すためにも明日は1日ここに停滞しようと思う。

歩行距離 32キロ

北海道初山別村→苫前町

総歩行距離 172キロ


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