膝が抜けかける男たち(徒歩日本縦断#17)

17日目の今日はルスツの道の駅で起床

予想通り、交通量も少なく静かで寝やすい道の駅だった。旅四年目にもなると野宿レーダービンビンだ。

そんな今日はルスツから洞爺湖町と抜けていよいよ太平洋側の豊浦を目指す

そんなTodayの道のり

今日の天気はドン曇り

ルスツを抜けてすぐに広がるとうきびやジャガイモ畑をひたすら歩く

まるで美瑛の丘のような美しい農作地を横目に歩きまくる。

これで晴れてたら最高だけど、まぁ曇りや雨の日があってこそ晴れの日が映えるってもんだ。

我慢我慢で進む

出発から8キロほどで

次の町、洞爺湖町へ。

洞爺湖町に入ってすぐに登り坂

なかなか斜度のある登りだったが、流石にリヤカーの登りにも慣れてきた。中山峠と比べればなんでも頑張れる気がするってことで難なく突破して

峠の頂上で今日初めての休憩

思えばだいぶ歩くペースも休憩の頻度も洗練されてきた。

最初は時速4キロで歩いて5キロに1回は休憩しないと無理だったのが

2週間以上たった今では、普通に歩いているつもりでも時速5キロ。しかも休憩は歩き始めは10キロに1回、そのあとでも7-8キロに1回あれば平気で時速5キロを維持し続けて歩けてしまう

別に無理しているわけでもなく、それが当たり前になってきたのだから俺らは確実に強くなっている。最初の足の痛みや疲労の地獄を我慢して乗り越えてきた結果だろうか。

峠を越えて3キロほど歩くと道の駅洞爺湖へ

ここでは横石がう○こをしたくて立ち寄った

歩いていると進むのが遅い分、特に北海道では突然お腹が痛くなってもそれを出す場所はない

かといってまだ最低限人間の尊厳を守っている横石とタクマは、野糞に関してはしてない(まだ)

奇跡的に「トイレを見たら便意を催す人間」に歩き旅を経てアップデートされたらしい(小便に関しては察してほしい)

この道の駅洞爺湖には名前通り洞爺湖を見下ろせる展望台がある

実に雄大だが相変わらず曇り

去年の自転車日本一周のときも洞爺湖は曇ってたしこの後の豊浦→長万部→八雲→森の道のりに関しては大雨だった

今年も天気予報を見る限り晴れることはないらしく、横石はいつになったら晴れた噴火湾を見れるのかわからなくなってきた

そういうジンクスは周りの旅人にもあるらしく、ある人は晴れの日のオロロンラインを走れないとか(横石はオロロンラインには恵まれてる)ある人は道東が本当に晴れないとか。あるらしい。横石にとってはそのジンクスがどうやら噴火湾らしい

噴火湾っていうのはこの部分

そんなこんなで洞爺湖町に入ってからは細かいアップダウンのある丘の道をひたすら進む

道中にはサラブレッド候補のような馬がいたり

馬の本場は日高地方だよ

北海道らしい農村の風景があったり

雰囲気のある神社が聳えてたり

割と楽しい道を進んでいた

そのうちに豊浦町に入って

途中でタクマが単位のことが気になって旅にてがつかずひたすらスマホ片手に単位を計算して教授に懺悔のメールを送ってたけど

この時までは笑いながら歩いてた(タクマは笑ってない)

そう、この時までは…

事件は今日の目的地豊浦町まであと4キロに迫ったところで起こる

目の前に現れたのは斜度10パーを優に超える下り坂。

ちなみに斜度10パーを越える坂は普通に生活している人からすればまず歩きや自転車で通ることのないような急坂

そんな急坂にリヤカーを引いて挑むとどうなるか

人間は地面に対して45度ほど傾きながら膝をブレーキがわりにして進まないとリヤカーの暴走に巻き込まれて死ぬらしい

この道のりを4キロも続けたわけだ

膝がだるま落としされたように抜けそうだった

下りを終えた頃には2人は膝ガクガク

特にタクマはガクガクすぎてカニ歩きしてた

今日は温泉がすぐ近くにあるキャンプ場で寝れるからそれだけのために頑張ったようなもんだ

下りの途中に2週間弱ぶりに見えた海の風景も心の支えにはなった。海は偉大だ。特に歩いて辿り着くとその喜びもひとしおだ

ということで午後3時前に目的地のキャンプ場に辿り着いて、タクマは先に温泉へ、横石は雨が降り出すまで釣りに出かける

ついでにワーム(疑似餌)の味ってどんなのかな?って思って舐めてみたら本当にまずかった。こんなのに食いつく魚を本気で尊敬する

そして温泉から上がって

一本だけビール飲んだ

財布と相談して飲んだけど、今日頑張ったし、明日は峠越えで勝負の日だ。景気付けに一本くらいいいだろう。発泡酒だし…

てことで明日は北海道最後の山場。静狩峠越え

距離もそこそこ歩くし、気合いを入れて歩きたいと思う

歩行距離 31キロ

北海道留寿都村→豊浦町

総歩行距離 477キロ

北海道もいよいよ終盤ダァ

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