一両編成(徒歩日本縦断#19)

19日目の今日は長万部市街地にある公園で起床

とにかく夜から風が強くて、公園だけどペグを打ってしまった(本当にごめんなさい)

もちろん公園野宿の鉄則は遅寝早起き

暗くなった20時過ぎにひっそりテントを張り、5時過ぎにはテントを撤収。

ただでさえ野宿はグレーゾーンだから、なるべく人目につかず、迷惑をかけずが鉄則なのだ

これから旅をする人は覚えておいてほしい

(貧乏)旅をする中で野宿は避けられない行為だけど、それがグレーゾーンなのを忘れずに行動することは旅人としての最低限のマナーだ。

さぁそんな今日は長万部から次の町八雲まで

32キロ歩いて向かう

「32キロ歩いてやっと隣町なの?!東京だったら埼玉県いっちゃうよ?!」なんで外野の声が聞こえてくる。

何を今更そんなことを…これが北海道クオリティなんだよ。むしろこれでもマシな方なんだから、北海道にこれから旅行に来る人はぜひ覚えておくように。

そんな今日の旅路

天気は雨予報だったが曇り。ドン曇りでいつ雨が降るかわからないが、とりあえず歩きはじめる

平日の朝なのに長万部の朝は静かだ

北海道と東京、飛行機で1時間と少しでいけるはずなのに時間の流れはこうも違うのかと感じる

気づけば函館まで残り100キロもかからない場所に来てしまったみたいだ

そして長万部といえばかにめし。

ここは1000円でバイキングできる破格な場所

もちろん今の横石たちに一食1000円なんて払えないからスルーだけどね(まだ営業時間でもない)

そしてこれ、浜ちゃんぽん

ちなみに横石だったら長崎で普通にちゃんぽん食う。

そしてもう一つ。横石にしか分からない伝説の長万部名物がある。

それがこれ

長万部除雪ステーションのトイレ

ここは去年。大雨に降られながら自転車で走り続けていた時。低体温症になりかけて「流石にやばい死ぬ。でも雨宿りする場所さえない…」って時に現れた救世主で、このめっちゃ綺麗なトイレの死ぬほどあったかい便座を抱えて2時間ほど寝て命を救われた場所なのだ

その時抱きかかえた便座は今も健在だった

もちろん暖かい便座で、一年ぶりに訪れて涙が出そうになりながらしっかりう○こさせてもらった。

ようやく用途にあった使い方を出来て、自分なりにトイレに恩返し出来た気がした(何言ってるのかは自分でもよくわからない)

そんな思い出の場所と別れを告げまた歩き出す

長万部→八雲までの道は本当にずっとこんな感じ。ただひたすらまっすぐにオロロンラインのような道が続く。

天気も曇ってはいるが、奇跡的に予報が外れ雨は降ってこない。ここぞとばかりに歩きまくる

ほんとーになにもない…

しかも曇ってるし…

正直何も面白くない道をひたすら歩き続けて

八雲に入る。まぁここから市街地まではまだ15キロほどある。

まだまだ何もない道をひたすら歩く、歩く…

すると少しだけ

青空が見える。

「あぁ、青い…」

なんて思ってると

目の前を一両編成の電車が通り抜ける

函館本線だろうか

乗客はゼロ

それでも電車は荒涼な大地を走る

なんて寂しくて、なんて美しい…

思わず見惚れる

写真を撮る暇もなく、通り過ぎる一両編成

乗客はいない。それでも何百キロと走る一両の電車。

旅だってそうだ

誰を乗せるわけでもなく、世の中に何かを還元するわけでもなく、それでも荒野を歩く

意味なんて別に無くていい。旅に意味を求めるのは好きではない。それでも歩くのはやめない

なんて寂しくて美しい行為なんだろうかと思う

本来旅とは決して見世物であるべきでなく、何よりも孤独で何よりも寂しい行為だと思う。

そうであるべきだと思う。

だけど横石はこの日本の美しさを、そして旅という行為の本質を誰かに伝えたい。

だから発信する。今日もこうやってブログを書く。

なんて矛盾した、なんて自己満足な世界

旅はいつだってワンマン一両編成だ

ほとんどの人には見向きもされないけど

それでも世界のどこかに撮り鉄や乗り鉄がいるように、このブログやSNSだって見てくれる人がいるかもしれない。元気を分けられるかもしれない、見たかったけど見れない風景を見せられるかもしれない。そう思って今日も密かに発信する。

今日最後のサプライズは

自転車日本一周のときに毎年1週間くらい一緒に旅したカイトの友達が

あの頃の俺と同じように自転車で日本一周していて、偶然すれ違って声をかけてくれたことだ

これからかずやはどんな風景を見るのだろうか

俺のときとはまた違ういろんな日本を見るんだろうな…

果たして日本を何周したら、日本を何回旅した、日本の顔を知れるんだろう。

横石は一周おわったけどまだまだ分からない

というか分からないからまたこうやって歩いて旅してるんだろう。

ここまできたらもはや自己満足極まりない世界なんだからトコトンやってやるさ

そんなこと思ってたら

今日野宿する八雲の公園に辿り着いた

雨こそ降らなかったけど相変わらず気温10度代で寒い北海道

タクマは寝袋に絡まりながら酒を飲んでいた

こいつはホームレスを極めようとしているんだろうか?ってほどに色んな要素が集まった格好だ。まぁ今日もお疲れみたいだしゆっくり休んでほしい。歩き旅はまだまだ始まったばっかりなんだから

歩行距離 32キロ

北海道長万部町→八雲町

総歩行距離 585キロ

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