奥行きのある風景(徒歩日本縦断#31)

31日目の今日は道の駅象潟ねむの丘で起床

この道の駅は温泉併設、足湯あり、24時間休憩所が空いているこれまたロイヤルスイートな道の駅なのだが、やはりそんな道の駅には徒歩ダー、チャリダー、ヒッチハイカー、ドライバー…色んな旅人が集まるもんで…

話が合わないわけがなく、昨日の夜は色んな話に花を咲かせて就寝。

朝、出発前は記念にパシャり。

天気は曇りだが心は快晴の出発だ

そんな今日は山形県に入って酒田市街を目指す

Todayのみちのりなり

ありがとう道の駅象潟(きさかたって読むよ)

ありがとう旅人たちよ

この道の駅から山形県境までは15キロほど

ちなみに、ここ象潟は松尾芭蕉が訪れた最北の地としても有名だ。

象潟や
雨に西施が
ねぶの花

汐越や
鶴はぎぬれて
海涼し

芭蕉がこの象潟の地を訪れた情景が浮かぶ

きっと冷たい雨が花をしっとり濡らす、静寂のみちのくだったのだろう。

おっと?雨さえ降っていないが今横石たちが歩いている情景と同じじゃないか

雲隠れする鳥海山と田園風景を眺めながら、少し感慨深くなる。横石たちは何百年も前に芭蕉が見た風景を今横目に見ながら同じように歩いて旅をしている。何百、何千年も前からその山容を讃えられる変わらない鳥海山。変わっていく町並み、風景。望遠鏡で遠く昔の日本を見ている気分だ。

今日が曇り空で少しさみしい分、余計にそんな感傷に浸ってしまう。

ぐんぐん坂道を登り、小さくなる象潟の田園風景を最後に目に焼き付けて秋田県に別れを告げた

そして歩行距離 965キロを経て4都道府県目の山形県に入る。

965キロも歩けば靴がボロボロだ。踵が大幅に磨り減ってしまったが、そんなに頻繁に靴を変えられる余裕もないので我慢して歩く。

そんな山形県に入ってからすぐに、国道7号からそれて吹浦という海沿いの田舎道を歩く。

なぜそれたかというと、2年前に自転車日本一周で偶然通ったこの道が

2年前のブログ

忘れられないほどの海の綺麗さで、もう一度ここを訪れてみたかったのだ。たとえ曇りでもいいからもう一度この海を見たかった

曇っているから青くはないが、それでもやっぱり透明な海。懐かしい気持ちを思い出す。

「せっかくだし今年はもう少し脇道に入ってみよう」

そう思ってこの道を少し外れてさらに狭い道を歩く

すると5メートルほど前に散歩するご夫婦の方が

「こんにちはー!」と挨拶すると

大きな荷物を背負って真っ黒に日焼けした横石に興味を持っていただけたらしく

しばらく一緒に散歩しながら、ここ吹浦を案内してもらうことに

どうやらこの道は南光坊が開拓した道らしく。

国道7号ができる以前は秋田に通じる日本海側唯一の道だったらしい。車も通れないような脇道に入ってきたのに、まさかそんな歴史があったとは。

道はどんどん坂になっていって

気づけば吹浦の美しい海岸を眺望する地元の人しか知らない絶景のポイントへ。

聞く話によるとどうやら、この海の砂浜からは鳥海山の湧き水が直接湧き出しているらしく、それもあってここの海はこんなに透き通っているらしい。海に沈む岩の数々は鳥海山の噴火で飛んできた噴石らしい。

当たり前だが、日本中どんな場所にもしっかりと歴史はあるわけだ。地元の方達と話すのが1番その歴史を直に知ることのできる手段となる。

そしてなによりその土地の方々と関わることでその土地が大好きになる。

お散歩も終わってお礼を言ってお別れしようとすると奥様が「せっかくの楽しい時間だったから冷たいお茶でも飲んでいって!」と言って小走りで家の中へ

そして持ってきてくれたのは

冷たいお茶と冷たいスイカ

一緒に歩いてお話しするだけで、こんなに人との距離が近づくとは思わなかった。これは歩き旅でしか出来ないことな気がする。

せっかくなのでと頂いて、庭で色々な話を聞いた。

どうやら夫婦2人で町の小さな魚屋を営んでいるらしく

今日仕入れた様々な魚を見せていただいた。

さらに魚を焼く炭台も見せていただく。

ここで焼く魚はさぞ美味しいだろう

「泊まっていければ美味しい魚ご馳走してやるのになぁ」と言っていただけたが、今日はまだまだ歩かなければならない。また来ることを約束して送り出してもらう

最後にはもう最高に美味しそうなイカの焼き物と畑で採れたミニトマトまで待たせてもらって出発。

まさか少し寄り道しただけでこんな出会いが待っているなんて。ご夫婦曰く「あなたと喋ってたら楽しい散歩になったから」と言ってくださったが、何をおっしゃる。その言葉をそのまんま、いやさらに10倍くらいの感謝を込めてお返ししたい。

まるで「おかえり」と言ってくれているような優しい笑顔で迎えてもらい、最後は「いってらっしゃい、また帰ってきてね」と言ってくださった。

美しい風景は日本中どこにでもあって、それをただみているときはあくまで平面の美しさしか見ることはできないが、その風景に、そこで出会った大切な人が介在することで一気に奥行きが増す。それこそ「旅」の醍醐味ではないだろうか。

そんな素敵な出会いを噛み締めながら先に進む

吹浦を抜けて遊佐市街に出てから、酒田市街までの道のりはひたすら国道7号を進むあまり面白くはない道のり

「せめて海でも見れればなぁ」なんて思いながらほぼ無になって進んでいると

酒田へ入る。

酒田は山形でも都会。飲食店に娯楽施設に基本何でも揃っている。

ということで本屋に立ち寄って、まずは暇つぶしように本を吟味。

45分の格闘の末に一冊をレジに持っていき、大事にバックパックにしまう。

そして

この旅初めてのマックで本を読みながら暇つぶし。今日は久しぶりにネットカフェを使わせてもらい疲れを取る日なので夜まで暇なのだ。

明日は日本海側をひたすら南下。

令和版奥の細道はまだまだ続く

蝉絶へる
秋曇の下
君と会う

横石 芭蕉

歩行距離 36キロ

秋田県にかほ市→山形県酒田市

総歩行距離 990キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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