勝負の地へ(徒歩日本縦断#39)

39日目の今日は道の駅せんだで起床

今日は午後から雨予報。目指す目的地は36キロ先にある、長野に入りたての道の駅、さかえというところ。

本当は誰もいない道の駅なのでもっとゆっくり寝ていたかったけど午前中のうちに歩ける分だけ距離を稼いでおきたかったので6時半には出発

出発早々に峠の始まり

今後、アルプスチャレンジが終わるまで峠を越えない日は無いだろう。横石の中でもう覚悟は決まっていた。なのでちょっとやそっとの峠じゃもうビクともしない。

雲の隙間から差し込む朝日に向かってひたすら登っていく

いくつもの洞門やトンネルを抜けて峠の頂上へ

朝っぱらなので若干足が重かったがとりあえず峠を制覇。今日はこの峠が終われば目的地まで峠と呼べるほどでは無いもののひたすらアップダウンが続いていく。

まずは峠を下って

十日町のちょっとした市街地、川西という町に降りた。だんだん通る町の雰囲気が山間の町って感じになってくる。

登校中の小学生と元気に挨拶を交わしながらアップダウンを越えていく

アップの頂上では見晴らしの良い高台に出て、十日町盆地が見下ろせた。

まさに山間の街じゃないか。これからいくつの山を越えれば北アルプスの玄関口 松本に辿り着くのだろうか。楽しみで仕方がない。

「昔の」

稲穂はもうすっかり黄金色。

どんどん夏が過ぎ去っていく

高台の一本道をひたすら歩く

吹く風に田んぼの匂いが混じって、鼻に抜けた

今がちょうど夏と秋の境目なんだろうか

夜は寒くなっていって、田んぼは茶色になって、木々は色鮮やかに紅葉して、唯一変わらないのはそれでも横石はきっと歩いてるってことだけだろう。

後ろでトラックが止まった

「あ、邪魔だったかな?」と思いあぜ道まで入って避けると

「どこまで行くんだ?」声をかけてくれた

「今日は長野の栄村を目指します」

「もしよかったら国道出るまで乗っけていくぞ」

「ごめんなさい、歩き旅なので車には乗れないんです。お気遣いありがとうございます」

「おぉ、そうか!邪魔して悪かったな、頑張れよ!」

そう言って地平線の先に消えていくトラック

お気持ちだけでも嬉しいです。そう感謝して進んでいると前からまた見覚えのあるトラックが来た。あのおっちゃんだ。

「飯はどうしてんだ?」

「自炊したり買ったりですね!」

「米なら山ほどあるけど持ってくか?」

「これから峠を越えていくので申し訳ないのですが、今は持てないんです」

「おぉ、そうか!頑張れよ」

そう言ってまた地平線の先に消えていくトラック。なんて良い人なんだろうか。米20キロくらい積んでおけばよかったかな…なんて思いながらまた歩いていると

後ろから聞き慣れたエンジン音が近づいてきた

もう振り向かなくてもわかる。あのトラックだ

「寝る場所はどうしてんだ?」

「野宿ですねー!お金もあまりないので」

「良かったらすぐそこ俺の家だけど泊まってくか?」

「…」

流石に悩んだ。まだ20キロほどしか歩いてないけど、泊まりたい。風呂入りたい。連日の長距離歩行の疲れを癒したい…だけど今日ここで終わったらこれからの峠アタックが厳しい日程になるし、天気待ちを出来なくなってしまう…

「本当に泊まりたいんですけど、今日はもうちょっと進んでみます!まだまだ歩きたいので」

横石の腹は決まっていた。

なんのためにここまで必死で長距離を歩いて、峠を越えて、本来ルートではない長野に入るのか。それは「日本で一番高いところまで登りたい」ただその気持ちひとつだったから。

本当はこうやって交流を楽しんでゆっくりまったり進むのが旅なのかもしれないけど、今回だけは自分に甘えくなかった。自分に甘えるのは無事に日本一まで登った後だ。

3回目のお断りをするのは、流石に気が引けたけど、それでもおっちゃんは優しく言ってくれた

「そうか!どうしても行きたい場所があるんだな。邪魔して悪かった。必ずその場所に辿り着くんだぞ」

そういって冷えたジュースとカロリーメイトを渡してくれた

最後にクラクション三回。地平線の先に消えていくトラック。それを呆然と見送る横石。

もうあのトラックが現れることはなかった

でもおっちゃんの優しさと男気は確かに受け取った気がした。

そして強い意志として「日本一に辿り着くぞ」という気持ちになる。時として気持ちは身体を越えていくもので、連日50キロを歩き、峠も越えて、暑さも越えて、疲れ切った体が軽くなる

気づけば午前中のうちに30キロを歩いていた

午後は雨予報だが、これならギリギリ雨に本格的に降られる前に後6キロ歩けるかもしれない。

新潟最後の町、津南町のコンビニで休憩を済ませて、雨が降り出す前にと急ぎ足で歩き出す

すでにポツポツとは降っていたけど、あと2時間は持つだろうと思っていた。が、

判断ミスだ。歩き始めてものの30分で雨が強くなる。たまらず軒下に駆け込もうとするがご覧の通り何もない道だ。

時間もあることだし、もう少し津南の町でゆっくり様子を見るべきだったが、降り出してしまったものはしょうがない

トンネルで雨装備に変身して、土砂降りの中を歩き出す。

無我夢中で無り6キロを歩き通して

無事に長野県に入る

長い新潟県を抜けて、いよいよひたすら峠と向き合う勝負の地にやってきた。

ここから道の駅は目と鼻の先なのですぐに到着

とりあえずなんとか冷えた身体を温めようと

長野への入国許可証

信州名物野沢菜のおやきを食らう

さらに

地元で採れた山菜をたっぷり使った山菜そば。

昼ごはん代わりにだいぶ身体があったまった

まだ2時過ぎで時間もあったし2キロほど先の温泉でも行こうかとも思ったが、流石に雨の中あと往復4キロ歩くのはきつい。今日は体力回復に努めよう

どんどん土砂降りになっていく雨の中、立派な東屋で高みの見物だ。今日はここでゆっくり休んで、また明日46キロ歩こう。

明日はいよいよ日本の国道最高地点、渋峠の麓まで近づく。天気も回復していくみたいなので山々の風景を眺めながら歩こうか。

歩行距離 36キロ

新潟県十日町市→長野県栄村

総歩行距離 1286キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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