アルプスの恵み(徒歩日本縦断#45)

45日目の今日は毎度お世話になっている松本のネカフェで起床(自転車の時もきた)

ネカフェで寝た理由は言うまでもなく、今後3日間は北アルプスに突入していくので、最後の贅沢といったところだ。

どーせお酒なんかも飲めないので、昨晩は景気付けに一本だけ飲んだ。

そんな今日からの3日間を詳しく説明

全行程77キロで標高2700mを越える日本の道路最高地点を極めてから岐阜の平湯という麓まで降りるルート。

1日目

松本市街から道の駅風穴の里までの21キロ

標高860mまで登るが、そもそも松本市の標高が500あるので、特筆してキツイところはない。強いていうならば、松本市街を抜けてから梓川沿いに急峻な渓谷の道になるのだが、道幅が狭く多少危険なところくらいか

2日目

道の駅風穴の里から、乗鞍高原中腹にある、ならの木キャンプ場までの16キロ

標高は1300mまで登る。1日目の800からだと16キロで500m登ることになるので、本格的に山道が始まるが、まだキツくはない。問題は日本屈指の危険度を誇るトンネル群が連なっていることだ。なにがそんなに危険なのかというと、まず狭く路面が荒れていて交通量も多い。それに加えて松本側からだとひたすら登りながらトンネルを通ることになる。ダメ押しはトンネル内で道が分岐する場所があるなど、まさに旅人泣かせのルートになっている。

ただ、交通量の多い国道158号から途中で県道84号に折れるのだが、県道に入ってしまえば、その先マイカー規制がかかっていることもあり交通量はうんと減る。そこまで集中を切らさず歩きたい

最終日

ならの木キャンプ場から頂上まで一気に登り岐阜側の平湯まで降りる41キロの道のり

もう説明しなくても地図を見ればわかると思うが、果てしない九十九折が続く最高難度の山道が待ち構える。標高は1300から一気に日本の道路最高点の2700mまで登り、そこからまた1400まで下るという鬼畜以外何者でもないルート。乗鞍高原を抜けると乗鞍エコーラインに入るのだが(岐阜側は乗鞍スカイライン)ここからマイカー規制がかかって、タクシーやバス以外はバイクも含めて通れなくなる。その点は安心できるのだが、単純な体力勝負になってくる。標高差1400mを20キロかけて駆け上がった後に、標高差1300mを20キロかけて転げるように下っていく。体力もさることながら、下りで膝を壊さないことなども注意しなければならない。

あとは高山病。ここまで標高が高くなると高山病も珍しくない。横石は自転車で来た時に一回なりかけているので多少の怖さはあるがなんとしてでも越えなければいけない壁だ。

まずは1日目の今日だが、先ほどの説明にもあった通りにダラダラと登り基調が21キロ続くだけなので特に何の緊張もなく松本市街を歩き始めた。

天気は曇り時々晴れ。気温は25度ほど。絶好の歩き日和だ。

松本市街を抜けて8キロほど歩くと

いよいよ目指すべき乗鞍岳の看板と目の前には北アルプスが立ちはだかる。道もだんだんと狭く、山道へ入っていく。

こうやって目指すべき目標が形として現れるとゾクゾクとやる気が湧いてくる。今からここまで登るんだと考えると鳥肌が立つ。

ただし今日の道のりがそうキツくないことも知っていたので半分鼻くそほじりながら歩くくらいの勢いでのんびり歩く。今日明日は体力を消耗していい日じゃないからそのくらいがちょうどいい。気持ちは強く。身体はゆるく。今日の目標だ。

花の咲く線路道をプラプラ歩いていたら向かいから直売所のおばあちゃんに声をかけられた

「こっちおいで」そう言われたので向かうと

どっから来たのと言われていつも通り旅の経緯を話していると

「好きなもの好きなだけとっていきな」

突然のリンゴ詰め放題イベントが発生した

「いや、僕お金そんなになくて…」

「何言ってんの、いいからとっていきな。重くならない分だけ。たまにはこういうのも食べなさい」

ここは遠慮して一個…

詰め込んだら

おばあちゃんにリュックの中身をときとドルチェで一杯にされてしまった。

なんと優しいおばあちゃんであろうか。

そのあとおばあちゃんにリンゴ農園を見せてもらったりして、談笑してから別れる

後々違う直売所で値段を見たら、4個で700円とかするじゃんこのリンゴ!高級だったんか…

しかもリンゴで満たされたリュックの中はリンゴのいい匂いで満たされた。まさに芳香剤のようにリュックを開ける度に良い匂いで癒されるというまさかの副産物まで手に入れてしまった横石。

「ハァァ天国」なんて道端でクンカクンカ自分のリュックの匂いを嗅いでいたので、お巡りさんに通報されなくてよかったと今になって思う

そしてまた2キロほど歩くと、麓の最後のコンビニに来た。この先は70キロコンビニはないので3日分の補給食を買い込む

ドルチェとときとカロリーメイトで横石のバックパックは3キロほど幸せ太りした。これから山に入るが、重くなるのは補給地点が無い分もはや必然だろう。覚悟していたことだ。

ずっしりと背中にドルチェを感じながら歩き始める

後半8キロほどになると

ついに山の中に突入していく。

梓川沿いの渓谷地帯を突き進む。

登りもきつくはなっているが、この歩き旅中に横石は何回の峠を越えてきたことか。普通に歩き旅するルートの三倍は越えているだろう。それは時として自信になる。そして自身は力になる。今は峠の風景も含めて楽しめている。

なんてったってこの青空だ。「キツイ」なんて思って登ってたらバチが当たりそうなくらいの青と緑が目の前に広がっていた。

唯一渓谷に入ってから予想外だったのは、想像以上に交通量が多く道幅が狭いこと。実際3回ほどトラックやバスとの接触でヒヤヒヤすることがあった。やはり自転車と歩きでは同じ道を通っていても感じることは違う。

そしてやはりトンネルは多い。

明日がトンネルの本番地帯だが、それにしてもまぁ多いこと。

ただトンネルを抜けると

その度に色を変える梓川が待っていてくれた

この色はメロンソーダかな。美味しそうだ。

いくつものトンネルや洞門を通り抜けると

こじんまりした蕎麦屋の横に湧き水を発見

「蕎麦屋の湧き水なんて絶対うまいやん」

と勝手に思い込みセブンのトイレで汲んだ水を全部捨ててキンキンに冷えた湧き水を入れると

これがまた本当に美味い

今まで飲んだ湧き水の中でもトップレベルに美味い。湧き水ソムリエとしては☆3をあげたいと思う。

しばらく湧き水滲み出る木陰で休憩。

もののけ姫のサントラを聴きながらのんびり空と山を見ていた。湧き水を飲んでから一気に今見ている空と山との距離が近くなった気がした

この空から落ちた雨水が山で蒸留されて、豊かな湧き水となる。その湧き水で体の渇きを癒す

もらったリンゴだってアルプスの恵みだ

そう考えると自然の持つ恵みに心震えて、しばらく空と山を眺めていたい気分になった

30分ほどぼーっとしていただろうか、至る所を蚊に刺されていたので我に返って出発

午後2時には道の駅に辿り着いた。山あいの綺麗な道の駅だ。

しばらくのんびり

本を読みながら風に当たって

夕方になれば

売店で買った山菜ごはんで少し早めの夜ご飯

今日はこれとドルチェが横石の夕飯だ。

明日のトンネル地獄を乗り切れるように神様に祈りながら今日は寝ようかな…

歩行距離 21キロ

長野県松本市

総歩行距離 1506キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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