茨の道(徒歩日本縦断#49)

朝から寝坊した

5時と5時半にかけている目覚ましに気づいているのに無意識に止めていて、気づけば6時半。

「いや6時半なんて寝坊じゃないやん」

そうです。普通の生活だと早起きだけど旅では寝坊の領域なんです。

今日は10日ぶりの歩きで、足も鈍ってるだろうからもっと早く起きて歩き始めて余裕を持ちたかったけど、こうなってしまってはしょうがない。「早く準備して出よう」と思ってテントをでたらテントはびしょ濡れ。昨日の夕方に降った雨がまだ残っていたようだ。

「せめて早く出る」という計画も狂わされて、まずはテントをなるべく乾かす。

そして結局8時に出発することになった

晴れているのが唯一の救いか。

高山方面へひたすら歩き始める。

こうして再出発の西日本編は始まった。

早起きしていれば高山から下呂方面に進んで、49キロ先の道の駅に行きたかったが、8時出発の時点でブランクの足も考えて断念。今日は高山から郡上八幡方面へ進んで43キロ先の道の駅を目指すことにした。

最初の3キロはひたすら登り。

朝の澄んだ空気の中、ループ橋を上っていく

周りの風景はこれでもかというほど山

思えば新潟から500キロくらい海を見ていない。そろそろ潮の匂いを吸い込みたいところだが、山には山の良さがある

例えばこれ

開始3キロで早速長さ2.5キロの長いトンネル

狭い、暗い、怖い。三拍子揃ったトンネルは地獄だけど、もうここまできたら笑える。乗鞍の挑戦で8キロ以上にわたって続くトンネル地獄を味わった横石の脳内は強制的に「トンネルは良いもの」と思い込むしかなかったみたいだ。じゃないとこんなに山越えばかりしてたらトンネルのせいで精神が崩壊するだろう。

実際この平湯トンネルも30分ひたすら車の轟音に脅かされながら歩き続けなければいけない。

歩道もあって、乗鞍に比べれば余裕があったが、それでもやっぱり怖いもんは怖い。特に歩道があっても、その歩道は漏水でびしょびしょになっていることがほとんどで、滑ることにも気を使わなければいけないのだ。朝から再出発の洗礼を浴びながらも30分でなんとかトンネルを突破

平湯トンネルを越えてからは高山まで20キロほど平坦基調が続く。

青空と緑のコントラストの中を軽快に歩く

スタート10キロで1回目の休憩。

ちょうど2時間で辿り着いたのでブランクを感じさせないなかなか良いペースだ。

ここでとりあえずテントを干す。

テントが濡れてるまましまっておくとカビが生えるし、本当にめんどくさい。次の日が晴れてる今日みたいな日はまだいいけど、しばらく雨が続くと地獄だ。

30分ほどテントを干して乾いてきたらまた歩き出す

いつのまにか山の上はすっかり秋めいている

広葉樹の葉はハラハラ落ちていく

積もっていく落ち葉の横を歩いているとふわっと甘い匂いが漂ってきた。どこか懐かしい。

そうか。この匂いは小さい頃、公園でたっぷりの落ち葉を手ですくい上げた時の匂いだ。

高山市街まで20キロほどの下り坂はひたすら清流の横を通る。横石が登ってきた北アルプスの豊富な湧き水がこれでもかというくらいの透明度で流れていく

水がたまっているところは美しいエメラルドグリーン。ここで泳ぎたかったけど、凍死する未来が見えていたからやめておこう。

カワガラスが飛び込む清流を眺めながらのんびり歩く

清流が少し外れると長閑な田園風景の集落に変わっていく。稲刈りが終わってしまった集落は、少し静かに感じる

黄金の波がうねる田園風景もまだあった。

今がちょうど初秋と中秋の狭間なんだろうか

立っている案山子の帽子は麦わら帽子のままだった

そんな里山の風景を楽しんでいると目の前に車が止まる。今日3台目の逆ヒッチハイクのお誘いだった(逆ヒッチハイクとは車の方から「乗っていく?」と声をかけること)残念ながら横石の旅は歩きだけなので丁重にお断りして歩き出そうとすると、そのおばあちゃんは鱒と鯖の押し寿司と松茸の炊き込みご飯をくれた。

なんと豪華な秋の名物揃い。

食欲の秋とはよく言ったものだ。

「ちょうど20キロ歩いたし休憩してお昼ご飯を食べよう」と思って日陰の場所を探していると

ちょうどいいところに湧き水を発見

これもまた山を歩くいいところ。

まず顔と手を洗って、キンキンに冷えた湧き水をがぶ飲み

押し寿司は昆布を海苔の代わりに巻いていて、絶品すぎたし

松茸の炊き込みご飯も匂いどころかしっかり松茸が入っていて、横石は今、日本の秋を心から満喫してるランキングNo. 1と言える自信があるくらいには満喫した。

ここまで20キロ歩いて、ちょうどお昼。

4時間で20キロなのでいいペースだったが、昼ごはんを食べて歩き出そうとした瞬間、足が止まる。

足の裏と足先がとてつもなく痛い。

ブランクのせいもあるが、それ以上に前と同じ種類といえど新品になった靴はまだ柔らかくなっていなかったからだ。

しかも果てしない下り坂は地味に足に対する負担が大きい。これまでの20キロとは打って変わって、痛みを我慢して歩くことになる。

正直まだあと23キロ残ってる段階でこの痛みはなかなかなものだったが、途中で諦めて今日のノルマを歩けないことはしたくなかった。

これは気持ちの問題で、こういう足が痛い、キツイ時にこそ立てた目標くらい達成しなければ、今後横石は甘える習慣がついて二度と過酷な歩き旅に戻れなくなってしまう。そんな気持ちだ。

だから必死に前に進む。

ある程度歩くと足裏の痛みは薄れていくもんで、歩き続ければ痛くは無くなるのだが、かといってあと23キロ歩き続けたら根本的に足が故障してしまう。休憩は仕方ないものと割り切って、こまめに休憩をとりながら、その度に痛む足を前に運ぶ。

今の横石の楽しみは小京都のような古い町並みが有名な飛騨高山の町並みだけだった。

そして足の痛みが出てから14キロ。午後四時になんとか高山へ辿り着く。

観光客に溢れて活気のある、なのにどこか落ち着いている、素敵な町並みが至る所に残っていた。本当は飛騨牛食べたり、おしゃれなカフェに入ってみたかったりしたかったけど、なんせあとゴールまで9キロ残っている。名残惜しいけど町並みをしっかり歩けたので今回は良しとしよう。

日没まであと2時間もない。そして残りはあと9キロと本当にギリギリだった。なんでこんなに予定が押してるかっていうと、またポンコツ横石が日没時間を夏の時間で計算していたからだ。この時期に旅をするのはほぼ初めてなので日没はすっかり計算外だった。

痛む足をかばう暇もなく、暗くなっていく高山の町並みをひたすら歩く。

「そんなに無理すんなよ」

自分でもそう思ってる。だけどさっきも言ったようにこういうキツイ場面を越えなきゃ、横石は一生甘えてしまうという強迫観念があった。横石が旅仲間から「変態」と言われる所以は多分こういうところにある。キツイ場面を越えると、もうその壁はキツイ壁では無くなるから、どんどん体力と根性がついていくのだ。

旅に関してだけは妥協したくない

大学4年間のほぼ全てを費やして挑戦してきた旅だけは甘えたくなかった(もちろんのんびり行って風景を楽しむときもあるけどね)

道中、インスタで応援してくださっている高山に住んでいる方から有り難すぎる差し入れと激励をもらってラストスパート。

そして午後6時過ぎ。ほぼ日が暮れかけ暗くなった頃に無事43キロを歩き切った

なんと差し入れの中には食料どころか、ビールまで入っていたので(しかもキンキン)自分へのご褒美として1人乾杯。本当にありがとうございました!

再出発早々の困難をなんとか乗り越えた横石。

明日は少しのんびり行こうかな。なんて思っています。

歩行距離 43キロ

岐阜県平湯→清見

総歩行距離 1609キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、下の日本一周ボタンを押して是非応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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