51日目の今日は道の駅パスカル清見で起床

駐車場に面していない、裏側の絶対に誰もこない軒下を見つけることが出来たのでめちゃくちゃ安眠できた。最近ますます寝床探しが上手くなっている。
テントを片付けてからはまず朝ごはん

本当に昨日一件も食料品店が無かったため、道の駅の売店で昨日の夕方に食料を探したところ、ニジマスのばっか煮なる郷土料理しかなかったので今日の朝ごはんはニジマス4匹。笑
甘露煮のニジマスなんて美味しくないわけないけど、それ以上に朝から4匹は意外と量があった。食べきった時には若干の腹痛を起こしながらも歩き始める

そんな今日は郡上八幡までの32キロの道のりだ
午後から雨予報だったので、なるべく早めに辿りつくのが目標。

まずは朝から峠越え。今更峠越えをしたって、特になんの問題もなくクリアして

頂上で1キロを超えるトンネルに
そしてこのトンネルの中で

やっーーーーっと
高山市を抜けて郡上市に入る。
かれこれ乗鞍の頂上で高山市に入ってから100キロくらいは高山市を歩いてたよ…もう岐阜には高山市しかないのかと思ってた。
とりあえず無事に郡上市に入って、ここからはひたすらゆるい下り坂を進んでいく。
今日は正直、曇りだし風景はあまり面白く無かったが、とにかく人との触れ合いが多くて、差し入れをたくさん頂いた

まずは郡上市に入ってからすぐにおばあさん2人に声をかけられて、談笑していると栄養ドリンクを頂く。

さらにそれから3キロほど歩いていると、次は車に乗った別のおばあさん2人組に声をかけられてコーラを頂く。
そしてそこから5キロほど歩いて

道の駅明宝へ。
時刻もちょうどお昼前だったので、2日ぶりにちゃんとしたご飯を食べようと吟味。
ほんとはレストランとかが良かったけど、道の駅のレストランはあまりにも高いので滅多に使えるものではない…
吟味した結果、売店のおばちゃんと仲良くなってアイスコーヒーとミニドーナツを頂いたので、ついでにここで唐揚げを買うことにした

その売店の前でおばさんと話しながら唐揚げを食べていたら、隣の売店のおばさんや、お客さんが次々と差し入れをくださって

牛串が追加されたと思ったら

あれよあれよと言う間に明宝名物のフランクフルトと唐揚げを買った売店のおばちゃんからはおにぎり二個の差し入れまで頂いた。
もはやこれは夜ご飯分まで頂いてしまったようだ。
なんで温かいんだ岐阜の人たち。
本当にありがとうございます。
特にここ2日間は全くコンビニとか無くてロクなものを食べてなかったからあったかい食べ物が心から染み渡った
おにぎり2つは夜ご飯に残しておいて、お礼を言って道の駅を出発。
するとすぐに車が止まって

次はアンパンとアクエリアスを頂いた
実はこの人、昨日からせせらぎ街道で3回も横石とすれ違ったらしく、見ているうちに応援したくなったらしい。今はこうやって優しくしてくださる人たちに何も返せないけど、横石が歩いている姿が少しは見る人に元気を分けてあげたらいいなぁとか、そんなことを思ってしまう。
そしてそこからさらに2キロほど進むと
また目の前に車が止まって

今度は500円分の商品券を頂いた
郡上市のファミマだったら使えるみたいなので、そこらへんでありがたく使わせていただこうと思う。
さらに極め付けはここから3キロほど進んだ時に起きる。
急激なお腹の痛みが襲ってきた
どうやら朝お腹痛かった時にちゃんと大便をしなかったことと、そのあとお昼に急激に油物を食べまくって体が追いつかなかったらしい…
慌ててトイレを探すが、郡上八幡市街まで残り10キロはなにもない…
流石に諦めた
いままでなんとか「野糞」だけは避けてきたけど、今回ばかりは仕方ない…
ギャツビーのボディシートでお尻拭いたらスースーしないかな?染みないかな?なんてどうでもいい心配をしながらいざ場所を探していると
「おーーい!」
横にポツンとあった美容室から手を振るおばあさん2人組が。
なんと先程車からコーラをくれたあの2人組がここで髪を切っていたらしい!
「これはチャンスだ!」と思い事情を話すと快く美容室のトイレを借りることができた


昔懐かしの古き良き美容室の匂いを嗅ぎながら、我慢していた分をそれはそれは気持ちよく出させていただいた。本当に奇跡が起きた瞬間だった。
そのあとはお腹も解消されて、気持ちよく歩く
今日の出来事総じて出来過ぎてない?マジでドラクエみたいじゃん。歩いて、その先でイベントが起きてアイテムをもらって、また次の町へ進んでいく。本当に岐阜の皆さんありがとうございます。

そして、歩いているともう1ついいことがあった。
多少標高が高いからだろうか?金木犀が既に満開で、至る所で金木犀の香りに包まれた。多分横石は金木犀の香りより美しい自然界の香りを知らないと言い切れるくらいにはこの匂いが好きだ。今すぐこの花たちに顔を突っ込みたい気分だ。

そして午後3時に郡上八幡市街に入る。
山の上にそびえる郡上八幡城が見守る城下町だ

川沿いに沿って続く昔からの街並みは「水の街」と言われるくらいに美しい。せせらぎ街道の終着地点なだけあって、本当に美しい水だ。

今日は曇りだが、それもまたどこかノスタルジーな雰囲気を醸し出している
少し横道に入ると

それはそれは味のある秘密の小径が続いていた
なんと趣深い町並みだろうか…
タイムスリップしてしまったみたいだ
そしてこんな町並みで野宿できる場所は当然無く、もはや野宿しようとも思わず、今日はゲストハウスに泊まることにする。(ゲストハウスっていうのは、安く泊まれる代わりに相部屋や食事無しなどの制限はある簡易型のお宿だよ)
ゲストハウスは自転車旅の時の沖縄の離島しか泊まったことがなくて、クオリティはもはや気にしていなかった。実際八重山のゲストハウスは旅人たちでわちゃわちゃ飲んで話せて楽しかったけど、壁にはヤモリやでっかい虫が止まってたり、とてもじゃないけど綺麗とは言えないようなとこだったから(それでも野宿ばっか重ねてたら天国だけどね)
なのに郡上八幡で訪れた「水屋」というゲストハウスは衝撃的な美しさだった。
まずは入ってすぐ

水が絶えず流れる和風の日本庭園がお出迎え
さらに進むと

美しすぎる共用スペースが。
これこそ日本の美だと言わんばかりの木の匂いと空間だ。
更に中庭も

もう言うことないわ。いままで泊まった普通の宿より綺麗だわ。腰抜かしそうになりながら二階のドミトリー(相部屋)に行くと(個室もあるけど、今回は1番やすいドミトリーにしました)

しっかり掃除の行き届いた、ホテルさながらのベッドがあった。隣のベッドとはカーテンでしっかり仕切られているし、何より今日はドミトリーは横石しかいないらしい。
この美しさでお値段2800円は本当に素晴らしいと思う。普段使いできるほど横石にお金はないけど、ネットカフェを使うくらいなら、たまにはこういう文化を味わうのも「旅だなぁ」と改めて思った。
今日はここで死ぬほど爆睡したいと思う。
久しぶりのベッドにテンション高めで寝れるか不安なくらいだ。
そして明日はいよいよ岐阜市に近づく。
天気にもよるが、行けたら美濃市まで、行けなかったらその手前の道の駅までの予定だ
午前中は雨も降らないみたいなのでそれまでに距離を稼いでおく作戦でいこう。
歩行距離 32キロ
岐阜県高山市→郡上市
総歩行距離 1676キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

素晴らしいことの連続また連続!
ドミトリーの宿も素晴らしい、大当たりですねー!
なんだか、
今宵は👶《座敷童》が出る予感がします。
👂️『よーだい』って、音陰を感じることでしょう🎵
本当に大当たりの宿なんですが、座敷わらしは少し怖いですね😭会えたらこの旅絶対成功するくらいにいいことありそうですが笑笑
座敷童、怖いかも?ですが、
家の守神で幸運に恵まれる⁉️かも?
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