花を、植えよう(徒歩日本縦断#52)

52日目の今日は郡上八幡のゲストハウス水屋で起床。

ゲストハウスクオリティではない、最高のベッドと環境でぐっすり眠れたので体力もバッチリ回復。横石は普段の生活から枕を使わない人なのでこういう時にしか使わないけど、なかなかいいもんだね枕も。

そんな今日は午後から完全に雨予報

なんなら朝もウトウトしているときに雨粒の音がした。

なのでなるべく午前中のうちに雨宿りしながら歩いて、進めるところまで進む作戦。

一応ここから30キロほどの美濃市にある道の駅を目指すけど、道中大雨になってもここから20キロの地点にもう1つ保険の道の駅があるので、割と安心しながら歩き始める。びしょ濡れにはならずに寝床は確保できるだろう。

今にも降りそうなドン曇りの中、八幡市街を抜けると「吉野家」の看板が見える

平湯を再スタートしてからファミレスなんて一軒もない山道をひたすら歩いてきた横石に「吉野家」なんて看板を見せちゃいけない。

それはもう獣のように突撃した

シンプルに何もかけない牛丼が大好きな漢の中の漢横石。朝から大盛りありがとうございます

お会計も今後使うことのないだろうPASMOの残高で支払ったから実質0円。ゼロカロリー。

なんで幸先のいいスタートだろうか。神様がいるなら郡上八幡に牛丼屋を作ってくれてありがとうと大声で叫びたい。ちなみにもし松屋があれば横石は松屋が1番好きだけど、松屋はガチな都会にしかないのだ。残念。

牛丼で男を磨いた横石は意気揚々と歩き出す

郡上八幡駅はこじんまりして味のあるいい駅だった。名物郡上おどりの時はこんな駅でも賑わうのだろうか

途中のファミマで昨日頂いた郡上で使える商品券で昼飯も買って、準備万端で美濃市へ向かう

曼珠沙華は彼岸花の名の通りにお盆の花とばかり思っていたが、この時期に赤く寂しく咲いている。切ない。昔おばあちゃんに魂の宿る花って教わった気がする。今ならその気持ちが少し分かりそうだ。

郡上八幡から美濃までは長良川沿いの渓谷をひたすら歩く。至る所で鮎釣りをしている人たちがいて「長良川だなぁ」と実感。後で知ったことだけど、長良川の鮎釣りは世界農業遺産に認定されたらしい。横石的には鵜飼も長良川のイメージだ。

曇天の長良川は少し怖さもある寂しさだ

数多くのトンネルや洞門がそんな気持ちを助長している気がする

そしてトンネルの中で

郡上八幡を抜けて美並町へ。

まぁ郡上八幡を抜けたところで渓谷沿いの風景は何も変わらず、のんびり歩く。

美並に入ってから、平成16年台風23号の浸水した看板をよく見かけたが、あらためて河川の氾濫の怖さを思う。横石の背丈なんて優に越えた高さまで水が来たのだから。今通ってる国道156号は冠水して陥没したらしい。いかに被害が甚大だったかがその一言でよくわかった。

そしてしばらく歩いていると

雲が切れて晴れ間が覗く。

やはり晴れたらまだまだ暑い。

季節外れのツクツクボウシが鳴いているくらいだ。残り少ない命を燃やして。

それにしても今日はまとまっては降らないけど、ポツポツ降ったと思えばすぐに止んで晴れ間がのぞいたり、雲も忙しい働きっぷりだ。

台風18号というお客様が来ているので慌てているのか。まぁでもザアザア降りにならないだけいいとしよう。同じ大学で日本一周してる四柳くんが現在いる高知県はとてつもない大雨らしい。とりあえず心配で電話をかけたけど大丈夫そうで安心した。

そしてさらにしばらく歩くと

謎のモニュメントを発見。

詳しい説明は画像を見て欲しいけど、要するに「日本の中心はここだぜ!」ってことらしい

何かで見たことあると思ったら、確かグレートトラバースで憧れの田中陽希さんが訪れていた

ってことで記念にパシャり。

そしてこの直後、急に雨の匂いがしてきた

急いで近くのコンビニに避難すると案の定降り出す雨。ずっと旅していると雨が降りそうな気配が五感でわかるようになってくる。下手な天気予報よりは最後に自分を信じた方が最近上手くいく。

雨もそんなに長くは続かなかったので、15分ほど雨宿りしてから出発

そして歩き始めてから20キロほどで保険として調べておいた道の駅美並に到着

この時点で12時半

朝買っておいたおにぎりで昼ごはんといこう

休憩所に座ると、なんとこの道の駅も24時間解放されている畳があった

保険というかもはや本命にしておくべきだったが、少しでも岐阜市に今日の時点で近づいておきたかったので名残惜しく出発する

歩き始めてすぐに美濃市へ。

再出発4日目にしてやっと身体の不調が無くなってきた。初日と2日目は靴を変えたおかげで足の痛み。昨日は腰の痛みがあったが、腰の痛みに関しては腰ベルトをうまく調整することで今日はほぼ気にならずに歩けている。肩の痛みはもはや再出発前からなので仕方ない。

そんなこんなでやっと本調子に戻ってきた横石くん。昨日は本当に腰痛くてゲストハウスで寝ながらひたすらストレッチ方法調べてたから助かった。

そして3時に目的地の道の駅へ

ひっさしぶりに隣にコンビニとかあるそこそこ都会の道の駅来たから、カップ麺で節約飯するかぁ。なんて思いながら隣のコンビニでカップ麺と安い発泡酒を買ってきて、飲みながら道の駅のベンチに座っていると、隣に仕事を終えたトイレの清掃のおばあさんが座って、しばらくお話していた。

もう旦那さんが亡くなって15年経って、飼っていたわんちゃんも今年の1月に亡くなってしまったそう。「1人はさみしいなぁ」なんて笑いながら花壇の花を手入れするおばあさん。

「あなたが毎日冒険しているように私も毎日花を育ててるの」

「こんな年寄りでも雇ってくれる道の駅には感謝しなきゃね。しかもこうやっていろんな人ととお話できるもんね」

綺麗に咲く花の影にはそんなおばあさんの笑顔が隠されていることを知る。何故だか少し泣きそうになった。旅をしていると人は誰でも悲しさと向き合ってることを知る。花はその色だけではない美しさを持っていることも。

そういえばこのおばあさんは少し、横石が高校生の時に亡くなったおばあちゃんに似ていたなぁ。

両親が共働きだった分、家にいるのはいつもおばあちゃんで、本当に色んなことを教えてもらったばあちゃんに。

あの人は本当に心配性だったから、きっと横石がいまこんな旅をしているなんて知ったら腰を抜かして心配していたんだろうなぁ

そんな感傷に浸ってしまいながらも、明日を楽しみにしている横石くん。

何が楽しみって。

明日は横石くんの誕生日なんです!!別に誰に祝ってもらえるわけではないし1人だけど!祝22歳!てことは今日はファミマで一本だけお酒でも買おうってウキウキしてるんです!!可愛いでしょ!!住所不定無職なので誕プレとか無理ゲーだけど、これを見てる横石の友達はぜひLINE Payに気持ちを送っておいてくれると嬉しいな♡楽しみにしてるからね!

ごめんなさい荒れました。とにかく明日誕生日なのはまぁいいとして、明日楽しみなもう1つの理由は岐阜市に行くからである。岐阜市といえば戦国マニアなら誰もが通る道。稲葉山城の斎藤道三から信長へ渡って天下布武を掲げて岐阜と改名された地。横石的には信長は安土城より圧倒的に岐阜城のイメージが強いんです。そんな場所に行けるなんて今からヨダレが…(天気も多分回復するから歩けると信じてる)

ってことでまた明日。

歩行距離 29キロ

岐阜県郡上市→美濃市

総歩行距離 1705キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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