63日目の今日は徳島県神山町のコットンフィールドキャンプ場という場所で4時半に起床。
夜から雨が降り続けて、テントはびしょ濡れだが乾くのを待ってたら果てしないので、諦めて早々に片付け始める
なぜこんなに早いかって?
今日は7つの札所を回りつつ50キロ歩く予定だからだ。

スタート地点は12番焼山寺から10キロほど行ったところ。そこから19番立江寺を目指す旅路だ
ということで準備を済ませて朝5時半に歩き始める

夜の雨も止んで天気は回復傾向
朝の涼しい風の中、といいたいが、この季節になるともはや寒い風の中を進む

すっかり秋だ
ちなみに今日のスタート地点から次の札所の13番大日寺までは16キロ歩かなければいけないので、久しぶりに元の旅の感覚が戻ってきたような気がする

途中から鮎喰川(あくいがわ)というなんとも読みにくい名前の川に合流するが、この川がまた素晴らしい色

吸い込まれてしまいそうな濃いエメラルドだ
そんな風景を楽しみながら

いよいよ遍路を始める前に泊まっていた徳島市に3日ぶりに戻ってきた笑
遍路道がいかに入り組んで、四国中を張り巡らされているかがよく分かる。だって直線で行けばすぐ徳島に戻ってこれるもん。
徳島に入ってからはしばらく都会(焼山寺などに比べたら)の風景
そんな道中でまた面白い休憩所を見つけた

「おやすみなし亭」という13番大日寺から2キロほど手前にある休憩所なのだが、中に入ると

冷蔵庫に好きにとっていいみかんや飲み物、お菓子が入っていたり

反射材のプレゼントがあったり、
とにかく四国のお接待文化を代表するような心温まる休憩所だった。
横石もミカンとお菓子と飲み物と反射材をいただいて(いや全部やん)ありがたく休ませてもらう。
そしてここから13番札所大日寺へ

大日寺から17番井戸寺までは10キロ弱の間に徳島市内に4個のお寺が密着してるので、道中は割愛して紹介

14番常楽寺〜!(水曜どうでしょう風に)

15番国分寺〜!(昨日の焼山寺で白衣は汗だくになったので今日は封印)

16番観音寺〜!(自撮りの顔のレパートリーはここで尽きた)

17番井戸寺〜!
井戸寺に11時半に到着して少し休憩を入れる
ここから18番の恩山寺までは18キロの長丁場なので気合を入れて12時から歩き始め

長閑な畑の間を抜けて

久しぶりすぎる国道を通って

地蔵院というところからは、2日連続となる未舗装の山道に突入

焼山寺ほどではないし、距離も2キロほどしかないが、急峻な沢沿いを登って

鬱蒼とした林の中をくだっていく
しかしここで横石は気づいてしまう
みなさんも上の写真を見てお気づきだろうか
そう。ある程度未舗装でも道らしきものがあるのが遍路道なのだが、なぜか道がなくなっていたのだ…
要するに横石は、気づいたら鬱蒼とした森の中で迷子になっていたのだ
焦る。
元来た道を少し戻ってみたけど、相変わらず道らしきものは見当たらないし、どこをみても同じような森の中なので方向感覚が無くなる
冷や汗が止まらない
少し立ち止まって落ち着く。
ここから元来た道に戻ろうとして違う方向に行ってしまったらそれこそ泥沼だ。遭難になりかねない。
電波は通っていない。
ここは向かっていた方角が正解だと見切りをつけて、その方角の情報を五感を使って把握する
割と近くに道路があるのか、車の音がする
だけどまだ道路は見えない
本来東へ向かうのが横石の行きたい道なのだが、時刻は昼過ぎ。鬱蒼とした森の中というのもあって太陽の方角はわからない。
唯一のヒントであった、「車の音」
これにかけて10メートルほど進んでは辺りを見回して、音を聞いて、より正確な向かうべき先を判断し、また10メートル進む。

森はより鬱蒼としていき、蜘蛛の巣や虫たちがひっつき回る。
だけどそんなこと気にしてはられないし、なにより少しずつ車の音が近くなるのをヒントに木々や下草を掻き分けていく
そしてここで最大のヒントが出てきた
それは「沢跡」だ
横石は最初沢沿いに登っていた
その沢は反対方向にも同じように伸びていた
そして沢は必ず低い方に流れるので、この沢を下れば道路に出られるのではないか
その可能性に賭けて、沢を下る
一刻も早く道路に出たくて焦っていたのか、何回も転げ落ちて泥だらけ
幸い怪我はなかったけど、この状態で焦らないのも無理な話だ。
そして沢を下ること10分

やっと。本当にやっと。道路が見えた
流石に安心感から崩れ落ちそうになる。
崖のような場所からやっとの思いで道路に出て、地図を確認すると、割と遍路道の通りに道路に出ることが出れた。
そしてなによりそこから20mほど進むと、ちゃんとした未舗装遍路道の出口があったのだ。
山は本当に怖い。
道から20m離れただけで本気の遭難をしかけるんだから。
泥だらけ、心労も凄かったが、これこそ「良い経験」になった。
どんなに小さい山でも用心深く進まないと痛い目を見ること。肝に命じて先へ進む。
だいぶ迷って時間をロスしてしまった
ここからはわかりやすい舗装路なので、時速5.5キロほどの少し早足で恩山寺までの残り12キロを歩くことに。
今日は恩山寺の次の19番札所まで行きたかったので、納経時間が17時に終わるのもあって恩山寺には16時前には着いていたかったのだ

ひたすら歩いて四国の大動脈国道55号に出る
自転車日本一周中も幾度となくお世話になった道だ。
ここで食料を買い込んでラストスパート
最後にまた少し山を登って

15時45分 18番札所の恩山寺に到着

参拝を済ませて、迷いなどもありながら早足で歩き続けた体を少し休ませたかったが、今日ラストの19番立江寺まではここから4.7キロ
17時までに間に合うかギリギリのラインなので、休むことはせず、身体に鞭打って16時からラストスパートだ。
そして16時50分に

滑り込んで19番立江寺に到着!!
納経を済ませて、ここから4キロ先の善根宿という宿を目指す
善根宿とは四国お遍路の接待文化の極みみたいなもので、地元の方々のご好意で無償で泊まれる宿のことだ。北海道でいうライダーハウスが近しい存在。
やはりお遍路をしている以上。どうしても善根宿に泊まって、そんな文化を味わいたくて、今日は少し無理して50キロ歩いて立江寺まで来たのだ。

落ちていく太陽の下でラスト4キロを歩き切って

善根宿「法泉寺」に到着
ここは法泉寺というお寺が管理している善根宿だ。
寝る場所はもちろん、電気、水道、コンロ、全部が無償で提供されている。
今日はここでありがたく50キロ歩いて、かつ遭難しかけた疲労を癒させてもらおうとおもう
そして明日は焼山寺に続いて第2第3の難所が連続して訪れる。
20番鶴林寺と21番太龍寺だ。
どちらも山の上にあり、焼山寺ほどではないが遍路ころがしと言われている
気合い入れていくぞ!!
歩行距離 50キロ
徳島県神山町→徳島県小松島市
総歩行距離 2067キロ

お遍路総歩行距離 116キロ
13番大日寺→14番常楽寺→15番国分寺→16番観音寺→17番井戸寺→18番恩山寺→19番立江寺
今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

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