空と海の修行(徒歩日本縦断#67)

67日目の今日は佐喜浜の大師堂で起床

正直、なんとも言えない不気味さはあったが、「お大師様に見守られている」そう思って眠ることにした。実際何もなく(当たり前)眠れたが、夜は雨と雷がひどくて夜中に何回か起きてしまった。

そんな今日は50キロの長丁場。しかし、天気は雨予報。

四時に起きて外を確認すると星が見える。

「今しかない」そう腹を括って眠い目をこすりながらまだ真っ暗な五時に歩き始める

多分今日は確実に雨に降られるが、あまりにひどく降った時に雨宿りする時間があるようにと考えてのこの時間に出発だ

そんな今日のみちのり

ただ、早朝の天気は悪くなくて光さえ差し込んでいる。

今日の漁港の朝はやけに静かだ。

これから荒れる天気を予感させるかのように

今向かっている室戸岬は四国の東南端にある最果ての岬。海岸線からはひたすら水平線が続いて、どんどん果ての地に近づいてると実感が湧いてくる。

雲の合間を覗いた朝日から光の道がつながる

雨雲レーダーだと、朝の7時ごろには大雨だったはずだが、この天気

「あれ??これ雨に降られないでいけるかも?!」

なんて淡い期待を持ち始めた午前8時過ぎ

黒い雨雲が一瞬で目の前の空を覆っていって

気づけば真っ赤な雨雲レーダーが室戸を囲む

そして大粒の雨…

偶然近くにあった室戸世界ジオパークという施設に駆け込またから良かったものの、これはひどい。

流石に雨の中歩けるレベルではないので、進みたい気持ちをグッとこらえて雨宿り

まさに四国でここだけの集中砲火をくらい続けて、ひたすら雨雲とにらめっこをしていたら気づけば1時間半もこの場で雨宿りしてしまった。

「せっかく朝早く出たのに貯金が無くなった…」

なんて思いながら、今や遅しと雨雲が一瞬切れたタイミングで午前10時に屋根を捨て飛び出す。

飛び出して5分後。

またもやレーダー赤色の土砂降り

だがもう屋根を捨てた横石に雨宿りできる場所はない。

潔くびしょ濡れになる覚悟を決めて歩き続ける

ゴアテックスのくせに一瞬で雨が染み込んでくるほどの豪雨。

耐えて耐えて耐えて。歩いて歩いて歩いて。目は開けられないほどの雨の中、もう「濡れるの嫌だ」とか、そういう感情が無になるほどに濡れながら歩いた。

最果ての地で早速弘法大師顔負けの修行を天は与えたみたいだ。

そして1時間後

最果ての地である室戸岬に辿り着いた瞬間。雨は止んで晴れ間が見え始めた。

この室戸岬を登ったところにある24番札所の最御崎寺を参拝する前に、横石は行きたいところがあった。

それがここ

若き日の空海修行の地。御厨人窟と神明窟

ここから見た空と海だけの風景にひどく感銘を受け、弘法大師は「空海」と名乗るようになったらしい。

横石だって修行の身。やっぱり空海が空海たる所以を味合わなければいけない。

ということで雨宿りもあって時間は押していたが、中に入る

外の蒸した暑い空気とは全く別次元の、凛と冷たく神聖な洞窟の中から外を覗く。

朝なのもあって光が差し込み、空と海は逆光で見えなかったが、それが逆に神秘的でたまらなかった。

空海はここに何十日も篭りながらお経を唱えていたのか…

多分横石だったら1週間もすれば発狂してしまうような何もない閉鎖された空間の中で何十日も篭り続けて、かつここから見た空と海に感銘を受ける、その悟りの境地を体感できた気がした。横石含め、普通の人じゃ絶対に無理だこれ

そんな行きたかった場所にもいけたので、いよいよ徳島最後の札所から80キロも離れた場所に位置する高知最初の札所の最御崎寺(ほつみさき)へ

最御崎寺まではもはや恒例行事となりつつある、未舗装の登り

しかも雨上がりで日が差したおかげでひたすら蒸し暑い。高知はやはり今まで通ったどこの都道府県よりも暑く、10月の半ばも過ぎたというのに汗だくになって登っていく。

なにより石段が本当に滑るので、いつもより集中していたせいで余計汗をかいたが、無事に

24番最御崎寺に到着。

なんか流石に80キロも間が空くと毎日してた参拝が新鮮になる気がして、心なしかウキウキしながら経を唱える

そして足早に次の室戸市街にある津照寺に向かおうと室戸スカイラインに出ると、目の前に突如現れたのがこの風景。

いやこれは反則じゃないか?

あの土砂降りの中ここまで必死で歩いてきて、山にも登って、下りでこの風景

今やっと空海が室戸の空と海を見て「空海」と名乗った理由がわかった。

修行の先で見る最果ての空と海は、普段の何倍も青く、広く、尊く、目の前にあった。

スカイラインをぐんぐん下ると

室戸の街とさらにその先、これから目指す場所が一望。

一路ひたすら西へ。長い修行の道場である土佐国を歩いていく実感が改めて湧いてくる

「頑張ろう」改めて自分に言い聞かせて次のお寺へ

25番津照寺は最御崎寺からたったの6.5キロで辿り着く

港町室戸の雰囲気を堪能しながら、午後1時に津照寺へ

赤いお寺は17番の井戸寺ぶりか

そしてここは本堂が

なんでやねんって言いたくなるような急な階段の上にある。

はぁはぁ言いながら参拝して、次のお寺である金剛頂寺へ。

金剛頂寺はここから4キロ先なので距離的にはすぐなんだけど

また山の上…

なんかわかってきたわ。

「山」っていう字と「頂」とか「峰」って感じのつくお寺は大体山の上だわ…

またもやはぁはぁ言いながら山を登る

距離は短いけど、今日は本当に滑る。特に今日の山道に限って石段とかが多いので、違うところに体力を使いつつもなんとか頂上へ

そして金剛頂寺から次の神峯寺までは35キロほどあるので今日はここまでにして、ここから20キロ先の田野という街まで向かうことにする。時刻は2時。雨宿りした関係で今日はたどり着く前に日が暮れてしまうが仕方ない。

まずは下山開始。

朝の大雨で遍路道がまさかの川になっていた

ここにきて川下りをしながら(マジで意味わからない状況だけど)国道55号に戻って

ここからは海沿いの道をひたすら西へ

「自転車旅の時もここ通ったなぁ」なんて懐かしみながら、あの時一緒に走ったカイトに写真を送りながら、ひたすら歩く

午後5時半に奈半利町に入り、日も暮れてしまった6時半に50キロを歩き切って田野町へ

今日は遍路宿に泊めさせていただくが、ここがまたすごい

1000円で綺麗な部屋の布団で寝れるし、洗濯も風呂もなんでも出来る。こんな格安でこんなに綺麗なのは長い間日本を旅してても初めての経験だ。

ほぼ善意で泊めさせていただいた「遍路宿ととろっと」さん。本当にありがとうございます。ゆっくり休ませてもらいます。

そして明日は高知市へ近づいていく。

山ありの長距離移動の修行はまだまだ続く

歩行距離 50キロ

高知県室戸市→田野町

総歩行距離 2224キロ

お遍路総歩行距離 273キロ

24番最御崎寺→25番津照寺→26番金剛頂寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、ぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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