山岳修行(徒歩日本縦断#78)

78日目の今日は道の駅天空の郷さんさんで起床

昨晩は道の駅で出会ったおっちゃんと意気投合して今朝にはそのおっちゃんが「これでいいもん食べろよ」と10日分にもなる食費分のお金を渡してくれた。流石に遠慮したが、「ここは素直に受け取っとけやー」というお言葉に甘える

本当に本当にありがとうございます。美味しいもの食べまくります。身体にいいものも食べます。歩き旅は身体が資本なので本当にありがたい限りだ。

そんな今日はいよいよ長い山越えの道の末に近づいていた44番大宝寺と45番岩屋寺の山寺に行き、そのあと松山市まで駆け下りて46番浄瑠璃寺と47番八坂寺まで打つ予定だ。

道のりは白い点が朝のスタート地点で、そこからまずは大宝寺を打った後にA地点にある深い山の中の岩屋寺へ。そこからまたスタート地点の道の駅まで打ち戻って松山市を目指す40キロの道のりだ。距離が短いから気は楽だが、昨日に引き続き松山市まで数多くの山を越えるので油断はせずに朝7時にスタート。

この季節の久万高原は毎朝霧が立ち込めるらしいが今日は特に霧深い。

どこか幽玄な雰囲気の山道を2キロほど登って大宝寺に向かっていると、めちゃくちゃ破天荒な女性の方に後ろから話しかけられる。しかも純日本人の方なのに英語で。

この時点で面白いが、そこからこの人も大宝寺に向かうというので一緒に歩いた

「私のことはまどかちゃんと呼んで」と言われたので、以下まどかちゃん。

まどかちゃんはとにかく快活で、神奈川から久万高原に一昨年移住してきたらしい。

山道に疲れたら横石のバックパックを掴んで「引っ張ってー」って言って本当に引っ張ったり、Queenの曲を大音量で流しながら歩いてたり、やたらグータッチを求めてきたり、とにかく「破天荒」という言葉が良く似合う人だった。こういうノリは嫌いではない。

まどかちゃんのペースに合わせて2キロほど山を登って大宝寺に到着

43番明石寺から実に67キロの長距離移動となった大宝寺。

まだ霧に包まれた山の中に佇む仁王門の存在感に圧倒される。山寺はきついが、その分だけお寺の存在感も別格である。

まどかちゃんとはここでお別れをし、横石は次の岩屋寺に向かってさらなる峠超え。

岩屋寺に行くためには9キロの区間で標高700mはある峠を二つ超えなければいけない

まずは大宝寺の裏山を抜けて一つ目の峠の頂上を目指す。道はもちろん未舗装のガチ山道。

まだ霧に包まれた森が少しずつ晴れていき、青空が見え始めるその様子はまさにもののけ姫の世界だ。今にもサンが飛び出してきそうな、こだまがそこかしこにいそうな、そんな雰囲気の山道を1人歩きつづける。

峠の頂上では霧が晴れ清々しい朝の空気に

そしてそこから峠を下って

県道の山道を10キロほど歩く

岩屋寺まではショートカットの未舗装山道もあったが、ここ数日毎日山越えしながら50から歩いてきた疲労があったので、今日は距離は長くなっても舗装路で歩けるところは歩いて安全に行くことに。そろそろ滑って怪我をしそうな気がするという直感からだ。

そして舗装路の山道を10キロほど遍路して

岩屋寺の山門に到着。

だがしかし岩屋寺はここからが長い。

正直車遍路の人は本当に辛いだろうなぁと言いたくなるほど駐車場から登るのだ

ひたすら石段を登って15分ほど、山道よりキツイレベルを越えて

やっと45番岩屋寺へ

岩屋寺は水曜どうでしょう大好き芸人の横石からしたらある意味聖地として有名なだけであったが、そんなミーハーな自分叱りたいくらいの圧倒的な存在感があった。

まず岩屋寺がある場所は、山深い僻地で、巨大な岩をくりぬいたような、本当に荘厳な場所に建てられている

ここまで歩いたからこそわかるこの厳しさと荘厳さに言葉が出ない。

まさに修験の道場そのままだった。

水曜どうでしょうはもちろん好きだが、あのノリで来てはいけないところだと思うほどに圧倒的な存在感。思わず手を合わせる

そしてなんと本堂からこの岩場に登れる絶壁の梯子があったので横石もチャレンジ

登って下を見下ろすと直角すぎる階段でしばらく足がすくんだが

修験者としての気持ちを少しでも味わえるのは88箇所ある中でもここだけだろう。本当にありがたい場所だ。

岩屋寺は今まで訪れたお寺の中でもトップレベルの荘厳さだった。本当に訪れて良かったとあらためて思いつつ、午前10時半に下山開始。

ここからもと来た秋も深くなる山道を戻って

午後1時に朝スタートした道の駅へ

「どうせ戻るならここに荷物置けばいいじゃん」そうやって今までいろんな人に言われてきたがそれは違うんだよなぁ。

荷物を置いた瞬間お遍路はすごく楽になる

でも楽になった瞬間つまらなくなる

楽=楽しいなら横石は徒歩で旅なんかしてないし、わざわざアルプスにだって挑んでない

楽と楽しいは必ずしも同義ではないのだ

だから荷物を持って苦しい山岳の山々のお寺を参拝する。その状況でこそわかるお寺のありがたさは絶対に存在するのだ。

そんなことを思いながら道の駅を過ぎて久万高原のコンビニでおそめの昼食。

そしてここからは約15キロ。最後の標高800mの三坂峠を登ってから松山までひたすら下り坂だ

午後1時で残り15キロは久しぶりに余裕がある

やはり40キロしか歩かないと心に余裕ができるので心なしか足取りも軽く国道33号を三坂峠に向かって登り始めると

「おーい!」

元気なおばあちゃんに声をかけられた

そのおばあちゃんは「遍路お接待サロン」を開いている久万高原の名物おばあちゃんの「かよちゃん」という方で

コーヒーやパン。そしてみかんやお菓子までたくさんのお接待をしていただいた。

何よりこの笑顔だ

どこか懐かしくて安心できる笑顔に心から癒される

まるでここが昔からの故郷だったみたいだ

かよちゃん本当にありがとうございます!

久万高原に来た際は是非ともここを訪れてほしい。車でも自転車でもお遍路の方ならいつでもこのかよちゃんの笑顔付きの最高のお接待をいただけるんだから

そんな笑顔に励まされてラスト10キロ

三坂町を登りきってからはまたもや未舗装の険しい下り坂

正直連日の険しい山越えは膝がきていて、この5キロの下り坂は本当に膝が笑ったが

なんとか降りてきて松山市街を初めて見下ろす

この険しい愛媛一の山岳地帯を乗り越えて来て初めて見る松山の町並みはまさにご褒美だ

そのあとは松山市郊外ののどかな田園風景を先ほどの山道は嘘のようにのんびり歩いて

16時半に46番浄瑠璃寺へ

そしてここから1キロという久しぶりの短い札所間で

16時45分に47番八坂寺に到着。

今日は八坂寺の通夜堂にお世話になる

台所までついてる素晴らしい通夜堂だ。

これで無料だから本当に四国は北海道以上に旅人の聖地なのかもしれない。

そして今日はインスタでお世話になってる松山の方が飲みに連れて行ってくれるというので、車で迎えにきてもらって雰囲気最高の居酒屋へ

囲炉裏で焼かれる肉の数々に

久しぶりの生ビール

愛媛名物の鯛めしと、ここぞとばかりにお遍路の厳しい修行のご褒美をご馳走になってしまった…

しかも翔子さんは年も近い方で、久しぶりに同年代といろんなお話をして楽しかった…

本当に美味しいご飯に楽しいお話をありがとうございます!次は東京来たら絶対ご馳走させてください!!

本当にいい夜になった…普段じゃありえないほど美味しいものを食べてしまった…笑笑

すっかりリフレッシュして通夜堂に帰還。

明日は松山市の札所ラッシュだ。

久しぶりの都会の空気を楽しみながら歩いていきたいと思う

歩行距離 40キロ

愛媛県久万高原町→松山市

総歩行距離 2740キロ

お遍路17日半

総歩行距離 799キロ

44番大宝寺→45番岩屋寺→46番浄瑠璃寺→47番八坂寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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