徒歩日本縦断

快晴（徒歩日本縦断#84）

84日目の今日は宇多津町にある善根宿うたんぐらで起床

朝早くの出発だというのに、奥さんが温かいおにぎりを二つ握ってくれた。そもそも1000円（横石は500円で泊まらせていただいたが…）で風呂に入れて綺麗な布団で寝れて、好きなだけみかんや梨やお菓子を食べれる時点であり得ないのに、こんなにも良くしていただけると本当にありがたい気持ちが溢れてしまう。

切り盛りされている入江さんご夫婦の暖かさがお遍路の疲れた身体を癒してくれる、本当に素敵な宿でした。

そんな今日は高松市街を目指して札所を5個回る

そのうち２つは五色台という標高300m程度の丘陵地の上にあるので、今日もしっかり山登りだ

朝6時過ぎに出発

歩き始めてすぐに瀬戸大橋がかかる坂出に入る

坂出市街を歩いてスタートから6キロほどで

79番天王寺高照院へ。

ここは山門の代わりに鳥居がある珍しいお寺だ

一瞬鳥居だったので神社と間違えたかと思ったが、三輪鳥居という神宮寺ならではの珍しいものらしい。

そして納経所では

お菓子とみかんのお接待を頂いた。

みかんを食べながら次の80番へいざ行かんと地図を見ながらルートを確認すると、ある異変に気付く。

今現在いる79番から順に回ると、79番から81番までと82番から83番までが明らかに遠回りなのだ。

それだったら79番から81番に向かって、そこから82→80→83の方が絶対に効率よく回れる。

地図で調べてみたらあら不思議。後者の方が5キロほど距離が縮まる。しかも81番と82番は長い未舗装の山なので出来るだけ距離を短く足への負担を減らしたかった。

そのため79番から81番にまず向かう後者の作戦で回ることに。

81番は五色台という丘陵地なので、79番から真っ直ぐ東へ歩くとすぐに五色台が目に入った。

そして79番から4キロほど歩くと登り道が始まる

車道の遍路道を登り始めて少し経つと

讃岐平野と瀬戸大橋を望む眺望が広がる

まさに「香川らしい」

平野にいくつもの小高い山が飛び出る。そんなのどかな風景だ

ここ2週間はもうずっと晴れが続いている

特にここ数日は快晴の青空だ

青空の下で遍路道を歩いていると時々不思議なことを思う

この道をきっと何百年も前から、同じように汗をかきながら歩いている人たちがいたんだと。

お遍路は「道」という媒体を使って、過去と今、そして未来に渡って日本の忘れてはいけない文化と無くしてはいけない風景を繋ぐ架け橋なのだと。

きっと何百年も前と、今、そして未来にここから見る風景は変わっているだろう。昔はこんなに家がなかっただろうし、瀬戸大橋だって架かっていなかった。だけど多分、昔も今もそして未来も人はみんなこの道を通ってお遍路をする。ここから見る青空と山々の風景、そして海の青さはきっと変わらない。

この青空の下で踏み出す一歩は、きっとこれから何千年も続くであろうお遍路の大切な歴史になる。

未舗装の遍路道の何気ない岩は、そうやって何百年に渡って何万人もの人々が歩んできた中で、いつのまにか踏み固められて人の足の形になっている。その形はまるで「ここを歩け」と言わんばかりの道しるべになって、さらに歩きやすい形に変化し、自然とそこを歩くようになる。そして今横石たちが何気なく歩いたこの大地も、いつか誰かの道しるべになるんだと。そうやって旅は、道は、繋がっていくんだと、改めて実感させられることが最近増えた。

また話が逸れた…

だけどこのブログはあくまで横石の旅の記録であり、冒険譚だ。自己満足の文章こそが、時に誰かの心に深く響くこともあると思っている。

思ったことを書かないで、ただ絶景やグルメを紹介するだけなら旅行雑誌を転用すればいいと思うのです。ただそんな味気のない文章を書くくらいの旅なら、もはや横石がこのブログをやる意味は無いと思う。

話を戻すと、81番白峯寺までは舗装の登り道を2キロほど登った後はきつい石段の登り道を1キロほど登って辿り着く。

流石に1キロ続く石段は応えるが、まぁまだまだ余裕を持って

81番白峯寺に到着。

流石にこの時期の山の上とあって、汗が引いていくと一気に寒くなる。風邪をひかないように早めに参拝を済ませて、次の82番根香寺（ねごろじ）へ向かう

根香寺までは5キロひたすら未舗装のアップダウン激しい遍路道だ

「イノシシ注意」の看板にビビりながら、薄暗い森の中を駆け抜けていく

ここ五色台は自衛隊の演習地らしく、たまに建物が見えて安心したと思えば大体自衛隊の施設だ。ここ最近「自衛隊入れば？」と現役自衛官からのオファーが増えてきたので、もしかしたら横石もいずれここを走り回っているかもしれない。

そんな山道を1時間と少し歩いて、午後12時。82番根香寺へ

今日は距離的にも、納経時間的にも余裕があるので、ゆっくり風景を楽しみながら辿り着くことができた。

香川に入ってから、やっとゆっくり歩けるようになった。徳島はお遍路が初めてでフワフワしてたし、高知愛媛はとにかく歩きまくったからなぁ…

根香寺もゆっくりみて参拝を終え、根香寺からまだまだ続く未舗装の山道を下りていく道中

今まで見た遍路小屋の中でも群を抜いて綺麗な「五色台お接待サロン」なる遍路小屋を見つけたので休憩。ここは本当に綺麗すぎるし、絶対安眠できる。

しかもお接待でお菓子食べ放題だ。横石も遠慮せずにたくさん食べてエネルギー補給して、残していた80番国分寺へ一直線

山を下ってしばらくすると、やっと国分市街の街並みが見えてきた。やはりお遍路は気づいたら絶景が広がる。そんな旅路だ。山のご褒美をこれほど与えてくれるルートは、ただの徒歩や自転車旅ではなかなかお目にかかれないがお遍路だと毎日のようにある。

そして1時半に

80番国分寺へ戻ってきた

これで今日の山は終了。次の札所もここから8キロと近いし余裕もあるので

3ヶ月ぶりくらいに近くのマクドナルドでお昼ご飯を済ませた。特にお遍路を始めてからは朝ごはんと昼ごはんは歩きながら食べていたので、座ってゆっくり食べるのも久しぶりな気がする

マックでしばらくゆっくりして、午後2時過ぎに歩き始める。

県道の小高い峠を越えると

いよいよ高松の街並みが視界に入ってきた

このお遍路も終わりが近いことを知らせる街並みだ。ここまでくれば残り50キロほどでお遍路は結願となる。

そして午後4時に83番一宮寺へ

納経をしていたら、なんと納経所の方がこのブログを読んでくださっていたそうで、話しかけてくださり参拝記念のオリジナルタオルまで頂いた。世界は広いようで狭いなぁ笑

本当にありがとうございました！

そしてそのまま高松市街の今日目指すネットカフェまだ残り10キロの道のりを歩き出す。

4時半から10キロだと日は暮れるが、まぁ高松は都会だし危ないことはなく歩けるだろう。

ちなみにネットカフェは長野の松本で泊まって以来2ヶ月ぶり。本当は野宿でもよかったけど、流石に高松市街で野宿は気がひけるので、お遍路最後の夜はネカフェで少し贅沢に眠ることにした

予想通り明るい夜と高松市街を歩いて

四国のご当地スーパーマルナカで、いつも通り値下げのお弁当を購入。地方のスーパーは大体コンセント付きの広いイートインがあるし、弁当も安いし本当にありがたい。

そして午後7時に無事ネットカフェにゴール

いよいよ残り5寺、40キロも歩かずに明日88箇所を結願できそうだ。

歩きお遍路の歴代最短記録（調べる限りの）を塗り替える日が目の前に迫ってきた

歩行距離 43キロ

香川県宇多津町→高松市

総歩行距離 3025キロ（気づけばもうスタートから3000キロを歩いてきたんだなぁ）

お遍路23日半

総歩行距離 1077キロ

79番天王寺→80番国分寺→81番白峯寺→82番根香寺→83番一宮寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます！ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください！

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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3,120 件のコメント

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    晩飯と温泉ぐらいの接待をいたします。
    できればツイッターのフォローをお願いします。
    そちらのＤＭで細かい連絡を取りたいと思います。

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