結願-1113キロ-(徒歩日本縦断#85)

85日目の今日は高松のネカフェで起床

二カ月ぶりのネカフェは、暖房ガンガンでゆっくり寝れた。やはり屋根と壁があるだけで安眠だ。

そんな今日は23日間歩き続けたお遍路の旅をいよいよ結願させる。

1100キロを越える長い道のりだったが残すところあと5つの札所のみとなっていた

歩行距離自体は36キロしか今日は歩かないので、お遍路としては最も遅い7時半に高松市街を歩き始める。

まずは84番屋島寺へ

お遍路最終日と言っても、いつもより多く山を越えなければいけない。標高300m弱ある84番屋島寺と85番八栗寺は2つとも独立した山の上なので一回山を降りて0から登る

そのあと86番と87番は平地だが、ゴールの88番に行くまでにラスボスにふさわしい標高800mの険しい山を登らなければいけないのだ

かくして最終日にふさわしい過酷な道のりが始まった

天気は今日も快晴。愛媛県に入ってからは雨に一度も打たれず、むしろ快晴の連続だ。ありがたさを噛み締めながら、高松市街を歩き始めてわずか3キロほどで屋島寺への登りを始める

舗装路でこの斜度はあかんだろ…ってくらいの坂道が開戦のゴングだ。歩きだからまだいいけど、ここを自転車は本当に死にそうだなとまざまざと感じる。舗装路も容赦ない斜度の四国は自転車遍路も本当に大変そうだ。

ちなみに屋島寺まではひたすら舗装された急斜面を登る。舗装とは言えこの斜度だと汗は止まらず、まだ朝8時だというのにノースリーブになり登りまくる

そして8時半

まずは84番屋島寺に到達

ここ屋島と次の八栗の地は源平合戦の地であり、至る所にその説明が書いてあった。歴史マニアとしてはたまらない場所なので少しじっくり勉強してから山を降りはじめる

納経所のおじさんには「下り急だから気をつけてねー」と言われていて「いや言うほどでもないでしょー所詮標高280だし」なんて思ってたら言うほどでもあったのが唯一の誤算。

急で流石に膝にくるのでペースは上げずに膝を第一に降りていった

そしてようやく舗装路に出ると間髪入れずに目の前に次の八栗寺の山が見える

3キロほど市街地を遍路して登り道へ

八栗寺には本来ケーブルカーで行くみたいだが、もちろん横石は歩き。ケーブルカー乗り場の横の舗装路を1.5キロひたすら登る

斜度はまたもや21%。もはや驚かなくなってきたよ…

そして汗をまたもやかきながら

85番八栗寺に到達

いよいよ結願まであと3寺とカウンドダウンが始まる

そんな八栗寺ではおばちゃん集団と仲良くなって

そのうち1人がみかんをくれると、残りの方々もこぞってお菓子などをくださった…最後の最後までお遍路のお接待文化にはお世話になっている。ありがたく頂戴してパワーをつけて下山開始

下山も斜度21%の超激坂だが、まだ舗装路な分今度はあまり膝を気にせず降りることができた

降りてから市街地を4キロほど歩いて

牟礼の趣ある街並みを抜けると

86番志度寺へ

これで残り2つ。

志度寺は広い境内の中が日本庭園のようになっていて迷路のようだ。香川のお寺は豪華なお寺が四国4県のなかで一番多いと感じる

そんな志度寺でも出会ったおじいさんに

3つもみかんをいただき、ありがたく水分補給

そしていよいよラスト1つ手前の87番長尾寺へ

長尾寺までは平坦でのどかな道のりを7キロほど歩く

お遍路中当たり前に触れていたこんなのどかな風景も、小道も、もうすぐ終わってしまうのかと思うと少しさみしい反面、毎日50キロほど山を越えながら歩いていた厳しい道のりが終わる安心感で少し複雑な思いを噛み締めながら、長尾寺への道を行く

そして12時半に87番長尾寺に到達

いよいよ結願まであと一つ

この勢いのまま行きたかったが、ラストのお寺大窪寺は山の中で食料を買えないので、まずは長尾の街で明日の朝の分までの食料を買い込んだ。今日は大窪寺まで行ったら大窪寺の目の前にある休憩所で野宿する予定だからだ

食料を買い込んだら、いよいよラストスパートの始まりだ。ラストの大窪寺までは12キロほどだが、後半はひたすら山登りだ

まずは長尾市街から5キロ離れた前山ダムにある道の駅長尾まで緩く県道3号を登っていく

凪いだダムの水面にはもう一つの秋がしっかり写り込んでいた

今年は例年に比べて紅葉が遅いみたいだが、紅葉したらここら辺は本当に綺麗なんだろうな…

なんてことを考える余裕もあった…ここまでは

道の駅ながおを過ぎると、県道から外れて一気に細い山道へ。

斜度が急に上がって険しいこともさることながら、猿の大群が木々を飛び回っている。

これがまた怖い。1人で歩いていてこの猿たちにこの山奥で一斉に飛びかかられても勝てないだろうし…そんなのわかってるから静かに通り過ぎようとしても威嚇してくるし…

道沿いには大量に土が掘り起こされている。

これはイノシシの痕跡だ

四国の中で香川は特にイノシシが多いようで、「イノシシ注意」の看板とともに痕跡がいたるところにある。

1人で旅をしているといくら経験を積もうがこう言うものは怖い。不安だが進むしかない。

ゴールまであと少しだ。何事もないよう弘法大師様に祈りながら歩くだけだ

そしていよいよ本当に最後の難関である山越え

大窪寺へは標高800mを超える女体山の山頂まで行って下山しなければならない。しかも1キロで300mの標高アップという驚異の険しい道だ

初っ端から岩場を登る。

もういくつもの山道を越えてきたが、なぜ横峰寺や鶴林寺が遍路ころがしと言われて、この道が言われないのか分からないほど険しい。

瞬間的な険しさだったら焼山寺さえも越えている(後で調べたら、どうやらこの山道を迂回する道もあるみたい)

吹き出す汗と荒れる息を整えながらよじ登る

山頂までラスト300mまでどうにか来ると追い討ちをかけるように今までで一番険しい道

焼山寺以来二度目となる腕まで使ってよじ登る。まさか最後の最後で三点支持を使うとは…

こんな楔も使いながら、なんとか最後の頂上へ

正直、瞬間的には本当に今までで一番きついラスボスだったが、頂上から見た眺望もまさに今までで一番の風景。最後の最後に涙が出そうになる。ここまで来たんだと、大声で叫びたい

1100キロにも及ぶ今まで歩いてきたお遍路の道のりが蘇ってきた。いくつもの山を越え、川を越え、道無き道を越え、それでも四国の美しい自然と温かすぎる人たちに出会い、ここまで来たんだと。

お遍路は祈願の旅路でもあるが、それ以上に出会いの旅路なのだと。人それぞれ様々な出会いをして、自分と戦い、困難に打ち勝ったものだけが、最後にこの山から歩いてきた四国の地を遠く見下ろす。それは感慨深くもなるだろう

そして最後の大窪寺までは残り1キロ。

あとはひたすら下るだけだ

相変わらず険しい下りで膝を壊さないようにゆっくり下りながら、、、

11月6日16時20分。88番大窪寺に到着

10月13日 午前11時にスタートしてから1113キロ

24日と5時間をかけて歩き抜いた。

平均歩行距離は1日46キロ

時に大雨で12キロしか歩けない日もあったが、夜まで歩いて65キロを歩ききった日もあった

思えばお遍路を始めた気持ちは「やってみたいって思ってたし、徒歩旅してる最中だから歩くのにも慣れてる今がチャンスだ」くらいにしか思わず始めたが、毎日過酷な山道と向き合い、気候と向き合い、想像以上にきつい毎日

それでもなぜか、何かに背中を押されるように日に日に歩く距離は伸びていき気づけば1日50キロ歩くのが当たり前となっていた。

なんでかは分からない。だけど何度も「バスや電車に乗ってもバレないだろ」とか「今日はここで休みたい」とか「もう少し寝てよう」なんて甘ったれる自分をその都度引っ叩いて、足が痛くなってもその痛みと向き合って、歩き続けるうちに、身体も心も始めた時よりさらに数倍強くなっていた。

正直高知の後半に差し掛かって、1日50キロがノルマになってからは足が痛くない時は無かったし、夜になると常に「明日は無事に歩けるかな、足は壊れないかな」と不安になっていたが、そんな不安をはねのけるかのようにがむしゃらに前へ進んだ。這いつくばってでも山を登った。

だからこそ、普通の人の半分は脱落して、残りの半分も平均40日かかると言われる歩き遍路を24日で歩き抜いたことは、自分にとって何よりの自信になったし、大きな今後の糧になるだろう。

お世話になった四国の皆さん。遠くから見守ってくれたこのブログを読んでくださってる皆さん。そしてなにより四国そのものとお大師様。

無事結願することが出来ました。本当にありがとうございました。

さぁ、これからは岡山に戻って沖縄まで、徒歩日本縦断の新たな旅が始まる。

移りゆく季節の変わり目を感じながら、この強くなった心と身体で、これからも歩き抜いていきたい。

だけど今は少しだけ休みたい…

ということで明日はご褒美にとっておいた香川のうどん屋を巡る「旅行」をします。

明後日からは岡山に行って、応援してくださっている方の家にお邪魔して2日ほどゆっくり休息をしながら、冬の旅路の準備をします。

改めて本当にありがとうございました。

そして是非これからの旅路もお楽しみに!!

歩行距離 36キロ

香川県高松市→さぬき市

総歩行距離 3061キロ

お遍路結願

24日と5時間

総歩行距離 1113キロ


今日もブログを読んでくださりありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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