関門突破(徒歩日本縦断#97)

97日目の今日は下関市街に程近い高台にある関見台公園で起床

誰も来ずにゆっくり寝れたんだけど、この城跡の中のぽつんとした東屋で寝るのは少し怖かった。なんかお城跡とかだと色々出てきそうじゃん?(霊感皆無だけど)

朝は曇り空。今日は午前中雨予報だけどまだ持ちそうだ。そしてなにより曇り空だったおかげで放射冷却があまり無くて朝の気温から10度を超えているという奇跡。鼻水一つ垂らすことなく寝ることができた。

そんな今日はいよいよ本州に別れを告げ九州へ

旅が大詰めになってきた証拠だ

午前中雨予報もあるので今日はそんなに歩かずに33キロ先の北九州黒崎にあるネットカフェを目指す

そして歩き出して驚愕

「あ、ここ野宿禁止だったんか…」

普段野宿禁止のところでは本当に緊急時以外には泊まらないようにしてるけど、今回に関してはまじで見てなかった…

まぁ高台にあるから人目につかないし、1人だからうるさくしようもないしゴミも残してないので迷惑はかけてないだろう…

ごめんなさいぃ!と思いながらそそくさと歩き始める

ここから九州へと繋がる関門海峡の入り口までは5キロほどあるから辿り着くので、すぐ着くはずなのだが、関門海峡を照らす朝日が眩しすぎて何度も立ち止まり振り返る

本州の終わりを、そしてこれから始まる新たな旅路の航路を指し示すかのように本州と九州の境目である関門海峡を照らす朝日

そうだ。昔からここは横石にとって特別な場所だった。

親戚の家が長崎にある関係で、小学生の頃から毎年夏休みは長崎に帰って1ヶ月間の「本当の夏休み」を過ごしていた。

そんな長崎での毎日は本当にキラキラしていて、虫取り、魚釣り、川遊び、何でもできた

だからこそ長崎に行くために乗る新幹線はすごくワクワクしていて、特に関門海峡のトンネルに入った時は「ついに九州だ!」と子供ながらに胸躍らせたものだ

そして自転車日本一周でも2度、この関門海峡を渡って九州を行き来したが、その度にやはり胸が踊った。それは子供の頃と同じく長崎が近づいてきたという高揚感もあるが、それと同じくらいに次は「自分の足で遂に九州まで来たのか」というどこか誇らしい気持ちも合わさっていた。

そして今。今度は自転車よりも更に「自分の足で」しかも日本最北端の地からここまで歩いてきたのだと。感慨深くもなるものだ。今回ばかりは感傷に浸って関門海峡を眺める

30分ほどだろうか、朝日が雲に隠れてしまうまで、ずっと。静かに。座って見ていた。

関門海峡の荒波を渡る船が、やけに勇ましく見えた気がした。

そんなこと思ってたらポタポタと雨粒が落ちてきて現実に引き戻される

「まだ旅は終わってないぞ!」と神様に引き戻された気がしたので、気を引き締めて関門海峡へと向かう

ここでまたみなさんから疑問の声が聞こえてきた

「え?関門海峡ってどーやって渡るの?海でしょ?泳ぐの?」

「ご冗談を!横石は泳ぎが得意ではないし、得意でも渡れません。実は関門海峡は歩いて渡れる”関門人道トンネル”というトンネルがあるのです」

そしてそのトンネルへの目印は九州側を向いているみもすそ川公園の大砲!

この公園の道路を挟んで反対側に

関門人道トンネルはあるのだ!!

初めて見た人は想像と違うでしょ?これ

そう。ただのトンネルではない。

まずトンネルは海の中というか、海峡の下を通っているので、その入り口に行くために

エレベーターに乗って降りるのだ

ちなみに定員40名とか言ってるけど絶対そんなには乗れない。

そして降りると広がるのが

九州へとまっすぐ繋がるこのトンネル(残念ながら海の中を通ってるとは言え魚は見えません)

下関側の入り口から九州は門司側まで700mのトンネルだ。もちろん自転車や原付も押して通ることができる。

そして驚くのはこのトンネルも国道2号だということ。

大阪から670キロ続いて山陽路を結んできた長い長い国道2号線もこのトンネルを抜ければ終わりだと思うとこれまた感慨深いものがある。だけど逆に言えばこのトンネルを抜ければそこはもう九州。終わりは何かの始まりなのだ。

いざ行かん!とトンネルを歩く

ちなみにこのトンネルは歩行者は無料で(自転車は20円)しかも車も通らず真っ直ぐに700m続くので、よく地域の人がウォーキングに利用している光景が見られる。旅人にとっては特別な場所だが、地域の人にとっては生活の大切な一部分なのだ。

そして県境はちょうどトンネルの半分、350m進んだところにある

オリャァ!

さぁ!行こう!

新しい大地に心躍らせて

さようなら本州

そして九州!よろしくお願いします!

どんな旅路が待っているのかな

どんな人に出会えるのかな

どんな風景に出会えるのかな

何度旅をしても、何度同じ場所を通っても、変わることのない期待と少しの不安

それさえあればきっと横石はこの先どこまでも歩いていける。どんな山もどんな嵐も越えていける。

そして九州の大地に降り立った

さぁいよいよ始まるんだ

早速迎えてくれたのは

門司港のレトロな街並み

まるで横浜や神戸を思い出させるような素敵な街並みだ

時間的に合わなかったが、焼きカレーが美味しそうでよだれを垂らしながら、国道199号を一路西へ。歩き出す

ちなみに九州では

本来、青線の福岡を南下して熊本を目指すルートが日本縦断的には最も最短で近いが、赤線の長崎周りで旅をする。

理由は言わずもがな、心の故郷に帰るという大事な行事があるからだ。数百キロの寄り道など気にならないくらいに長崎は横石にとって大切な場所なのだ。

ということで福岡→佐賀→長崎→の順にまずは西へ向かって歩き出したのだ。

そして歩いていると早速素敵な出会い。

車から逆ヒッチハイクのお声掛けをもらって、一度お断りした方が、なんと近くのマクドナルドで待っていてくれて、「一緒に朝飯食べよう」と声をかけてくださったのだ

お言葉に甘えて一緒にご飯を食べながらお話ししたのだが、この方がまた旅人で、北九州でホテルや飲食店の経営者をやりながら全国津々浦々をご夫婦で回っているそう。

「今日は満室でダメなんだけど、北九州きたらうちのホテルいつでも泊まっていいからね!もちろん無料だよ!君なら大歓迎!その代わりお酒に付き合ってね笑」と言っていただき、北九州にも帰るべき場所が出来てしまった。どんどん日本中が故郷になって行く横石。

連絡先を交換し、握手を交わし、再会を誓い歩き出す。

マクドナルドを出てしばらくすると、雨が強く降り始めた。愛媛県に入ってから本州に戻ってきて九州に来るまで実に3週間の間晴れ続けていたので本当に久しぶりの雨だ。

だけどここ北九州は100万人都市なだけあって至る所に雨宿りする場所がある大都会

ということでヤマダ電機の休憩所で1時間ほど雨宿り。

やっぱり山の中の雨だと濡れ続けるしかないけど、都会は雨宿りできる場所があるからありがたいなぁ…

そんな雨も割とすぐに小降りになって、お昼頃には止んでしまいまた歩き出す

といってもここからゴールまであと18キロも無いので、のんびり北九州の街並みを眺めながら

それにしても北九州の街並みは、他の100万人都市に比べると良い意味で整然としていないごちゃごちゃ感があって、どこか落ち着ける良い街並みだと思う

ビルや高速道路が立ち並んでいるのに趣がある風景っていうのはなかなかあるものではない。

そんな北九州ならではの街並みを歩きつづけて午後3時には目的地黒崎のマクドナルドへ

今日はこの後旅を応援してくださってる北九州の方から是非ご飯をとお誘い頂いたので、夜ご飯を共にして黒崎のネカフェで泊まる予定なのでブログを書きながらお待ちすることに(流石に北九州で野宿したくない)

天気もやっとこさ晴れてきて、久しぶりに午後3時からゆっくりのんびり待っていると午後5時前には夜勤明けなのに来てくださった

そしてその方は「良かったら黒崎周辺でビジネスホテル取りますよー」と言ってくださる…

流石に申し訳なくて悩んだが、その方の「他者に向けた気持ちって本人以外でもどこかで返ってきますし、なにより自分が気分良く過ごせるので遠慮無く!」という言葉に後押しされてお言葉に甘えることに…

あぁ、そうか。優しくするってこういうことなのかな…確かに横石も小さなことだけど電車で勇気を出して席を譲るとその日は気分良く過ごせるしなぁ…なんて改めて思うことができた

そしてありがたい予想外である、黒崎のビジネスホテルにチェックインして

そのままその方の車で30キロほど離れた飯塚市というところの美味しい牛丼屋に連れて行っていただいた。

車中では旅の色んなお話で盛り上がって、あっという間のドライブに感じた…なによりその方が横石の色んな旅や価値観の話で喜んでくださったのが本当に嬉しくて、ついつい話しすぎてしまった笑

そして1時間と少し走って、地元では人気のある「牛牛うどん」という牛丼屋へ

実は横石、チェーン以外の「牛丼屋」は初めてでワクワクしていたが

なんとも言えない甘い味付けの肉でご飯が進む進む。まるで「おふくろの味」そのままの懐かしい牛丼だった。

絶品すぎて、大盛りの後に並をお代わりしてしまうという…笑

本当にごちそうさまでした!

そして最後にはその方から

たくさんのサプライズを頂いてしまった

チロルチョコは補給食にもなるし、誰かに配ってもいいよー!と言われたのでこれから出会った方々に配って行こうかな笑

そして他にも横石の誕生日の本やなんと給料袋まで笑

中身は本当に給料が入ってました…(なんの給料やねんというツッコミは置いといて)

なにより「このブログが本当に感性豊かで旅を追体験してる気分になるから思わずこういうことしたくなるんだよ」って言ってくださったのが本当に嬉しかった…

眠くても疲れても、サボらずに書き続けているのがこの一言だけでも心から報われる…横石の旅を楽しみにしてくださる方がいるというのが本当に幸せでした…!

さて、そんなこんなで本当にたくさんのお気持ちを頂いて最高の九州のスタートを切った横石。今後の旅路に期待が膨らむなぁ…!

歩行距離 33キロ

山口県下関市→福岡県北九州市

総歩行距離 3443キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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