よかばい(徒歩日本縦断#98)

98日目の今日は北九州黒崎のホテルで起床

「絶対野宿出来ない…」と思ってた北九州でこうやってホテルを取ってくださる方がいて本当に助かった…

朝ごはんもバイキングが付いていたので6時半からのオープン時間ぴったりに向かう。

「昼の分も食ったるわ!」という貧乏性丸出しのモチベーションで皆さん眠い目をこすりながらバイキングを選ぶ中、1人ハチマキを巻いてるのか?というくらいの勢いで物色。

そして唯一あったご飯もののパエリアとソーセージに狙いを定めて、パエリアを山のようによそい(2号分くらいありそうな勢い)その上にソーセージを載せた朝とは思えないガッツリさで食べまくる

お陰で超満腹。そして朝から便の調子も良好で気づけば7時半に迫っていた。

おっと今日は博多まで50キロ歩くのに!

50キロ歩くときは6時には歩き出すのがデフォルトなので随分遅いスタートになってしまったが、博多駅は大都会。暗くなってもまぁ大丈夫だろーということで7時半に歩き始める

北九州の街並みはやはり朝から車も人もたくさんだ。流石の大都会。本当に野宿じゃなくてよかった…と改めて思いながら大都会の代わり映えしない街の中を黙々と歩く

そして街並みは都会から住宅街に変わり、そこから小高い丘を越えたところで

やっと北九州市が終わり、中間市に入る

そろそろ「筑豊」という新しいエリアだ

ちなみに今日のルートは

青で示されている毎回旅の時に通っている国道3号では無く、灰色で記されている多少近いが峠を越えるルートを選択した。国道3号の北九州から博多までつながるルートはかれこれもう2回走っているから単純に飽きたのだ。

新しいルートは県道をひたすら経由するルートだが、中間市街を超えて遠賀川を渡れば

鞍手町に入り、ここら辺からだいぶのどかになってきた。

九州に入ってからはずっと都会の風景で少し落ち着かなかったのでやっとホッとできた気分になる

線路沿いもだいぶのどかだ

やっぱり旅はこうでなくちゃね

と言っても上手い具合に都会を挟むからこそ、田舎の空気の美味しさが旅中であっても再確認出来るんだけどね

そんなのんびりした田舎道を歩いてスタートから18キロほどで

宮若市へ。いやぁ福岡とか、都会はころころ市町村が変わってくれるから、代わり映えのない風景でも飽きないで歩ける!それがまた歩き旅という究極の地道旅をしている横石からすると地味にありがたかったりするものだ

そして宮若市から福岡まで抜ける峠が標高270mの犬鳴峠という場所なのだが、横石はその峠の名前を聞いた時に恥ずかしながらびびった

それは峠の標高ではない

「犬鳴峠」という日本最怖といわれる峠の都市伝説からだ

(知らない方は調べてみてください、もちろん自己責任で)

実際に犬鳴峠に入ってからはそこまでの心霊的な怖さは無く、むしろ車通りが多くて接触的な意味で怖かったが、いくつか不思議な点があったので記しておこうと思う。

まずは匂い

さして普通の峠と変わらないところなのに、なぜかたまに強烈な腐敗臭が漂ってきた。(これは歩きか自転車じゃないとわからないと思うので是非気になる人は登ってみて、1番すごかったのは宮若市側から3キロほど登ったところでした。吐くかと思った)

そして異様なほどの拒否を感じる立ち入り禁止の場所の数々

正直今歩いているのは新道で、色々やばいのは旧道だと聞いていたのであまり深くは考えていなかったが、異様なほどの拒否を感じるこの柵たちには、色々と考えざるを得なかった

特に地元の方々やフォロワーさんたちが口を揃えて「旧道はもちろん絶対ダメだけど、新道でも犬鳴村に近いし、いろんな事故があったから良くないこと(心霊現象)が起きている」と聞かされた時には本気で怖くなった。地元の方々が言うのはネットの何倍も濃い話だと旅をし続けて感じているので、この口の揃え方はすごいし、なによりフォロワーさんにも本当に事故にあったなどの現象を語ってくれる人がいた。

そして頂上に着いてからは

これまた曰く溢れる新犬鳴トンネルへ

ちなみに旧犬鳴トンネルはマジでやばいらしくて

続く道はしっかりと通行止になっていた。

というかこんなとこ絶対通りたくないわ。

通行止にして大正解。行政に対して初めてそう思った。雰囲気がやばいもん。言葉にできないけど。霊感ない俺でも分かるわ。

そんなこんなで「塩持ってけ!」とか散々アドバイス貰いましたが、全く塩も自分の汗くらいしかなく、半ば自暴自棄で無事に犬鳴峠を越えて

峠の下のファミマで待っていてくださった、フォロワーの方と合流して、少しその方の車の中で休憩。ここまでくれば博多まで残り13キロだ

その方にはまたもやとっておきの犬鳴峠の実体験を聞かせてもらった。

アァ良かった。今が明るくて。今が峠を超えた後で。

そして差し入れに八幡製鉄所の男たちが愛したといわれる超絶硬い乾パンのような堅パンなるものを頂いたが、これがまた死ぬほど硬い。

正直舐めて、「こんなもん余裕っしょ」って勢いで噛んだが、歯が砕けるかと思った。

わしゃ80代の老人かと自分で突っ込みながらもなんとか噛み切るがこれがまた素朴な味で美味い。例えるならたまごボーロを究極に硬くしたバージョン。

新たな福岡での発見と素敵な出会いをありがとうございました!

そんな(迷)名物を楽しんで、博多へのラストスパート

暗くなるとこれまたネオンが光り輝く

遂に九州最大の都会に降り立った横石

「え?待って。こんなにライトアップする?まだクリスマス1ヶ月前にもなってないのよ」ってレベルのライトアップに孤独を感じ

博多駅の文字には言いようのない達成感を感じ、、、

おっとこれはなんとも言えない奴や…とそそくさと博多駅を退散

そして今日はこれから泊まる場所もご飯も全てがスペシャルな夜が始まるのであった…♡

歩行距離 50キロ

福岡県北九州市黒崎→福岡市博多区

総歩行距離 3493キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございました!ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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