振り返れば(徒歩日本縦断#108)

108日目の今日は天草半島の南端に位置する牛深の道の駅で起床

道の駅というより水族館のような造りの変わった施設だったが、至る所に軒下があり、奥まって人が来なそうなところにテントを張ったおかげで熟睡できた。

まだ6時だが眠い目をこすりながらテントを片付けて、6時40分発の長島という鹿児島の島に行くフェリーに乗り込む

朝焼けの中で煌々と光る船の光が男心をくすぐる。熊本県は今回の旅では天草諸島しか行くことができなかったが、それでもまた新たに色んな熊本を見ることができて良かった。

そしてここからフェリーで30分もすれば蔵之元港という長島の1番北に到着する。いよいよ本土最後となる鹿児島県に上陸するのだ

30分なんてあっという間で、朝焼けのオレンジが薄い青に変わった朝の7時10分に鹿児島県上陸。23都道府県目だ。

港で着替えて靴紐を結んでたら早速釣りをしに来たみかん農家の方に差し入れをいただく。やはり鹿児島とは相性がいいみたいだ。自転車の時から鹿児島に来るとやたらと声をかけていただき親切にしていただけるというジンクスの持ち主なのだ。

謎のゴリラに見守られながら長島縦断をスタート。ちなみにこれからちょくちょく未確認生物UMAが出てくる長島町。遊び心がある素敵な島だと思ってほしい。

今日は快晴。鹿児島にまで入ると南国らしいヤシの木が立ち並び、海と空の青に良く映える。

ちなみにここ長島はだんだん畑と花の島と呼ばれるようで、文字通りに島のいたるところに段々畑が広がる。

先に通ったヨツが昨日「マチュピチュのようだ」と言っていたが、これは確かに小さいマチュピチュのような日本ではなかなか見ることのできない風景だ。しかも桜島が近いからなのか、土は赤土でこれがまたなんとも言えない南国感を感じさせる

問題は段々畑が続くということは山の斜面に立ち並んだ島だということ。山の斜面ということはアップダウンが激しいということ。

100歩譲って眺望がなかなかお目にかかれない新鮮な美しさだったので許せるが、これがただの道でこのアップダウンだったら発狂しそうだ。だって登って降りても平坦なんて本当にないまますぐにまた登りなんだもん。

そして14キロ歩いて人魚がいる広場へ

「お?ここ広いし海を一望出来んじゃん」くらいの気持ちで人魚の裏に回って海を眺めると

まるで遠く離れた北海道の積丹ブルーを彷彿とさせるようなコバルトブルーが広がっていて息をするのも忘れるほどに見入ってしまう。

何層にも別れた青が目を飽きさせない。

深い青に爽やかな青、海と空の境目は限りなく白に近い青。

なんと素敵な島だろうか。なかなか見ることのできない圧巻の段々畑にこの青い海。そしてなにより人も優しく、この海を見ながらボケーっとしてたら車でこの海を撮りに来ていたご夫婦の方にお昼代のカンパまで頂いてしまった。

今日は20度はありそうな暖かい日。

四国で出会った渡り蝶のアサギマダラがそこからさらに南へ。この地まで渡っていて優雅に飛んでいた。どうやらこの蝶も横石と同じルートを辿って南下しているようだ。

どうだい?君も、波照間まで来ないかい?

そういえば昔タクマが言っていた

「俺ら後ろを振り返らなくなったよなー」

そう、北海道を歩き始めた頃はどのくらい進んだのかやけに知りたくて、何度も何度も後ろを振り返って、その度にさっき見た風景がまだすぐ近くにあることに絶望したものだが、いつのまにか横石は後ろを振り返らなくなった。

いや、正確には振り返る必要が無くなった

後ろを振り返ったところで前に進むことは出来ないから。徒歩日本縦断を始めた時点で横石が次に後ろを振り返る時は、日本最南端の波照間島に辿り着いた時だって覚悟ができた。

ただ最南端に着いてしまえばもうその先に道はない。あるのは今まで歩いてきた道のりと足跡だけだ。だから前に進むこと=元来た道を戻ること、となるのだ。その時まで横石は後ろを振り返ることはもうないだろう。

長島が綺麗すぎて、好みの風景すぎて、ついつい立ち止まって長居してしまったが、お昼ちょうどに無事17キロを歩き縦断を完了。いよいよ阿久根市に入る。

この橋を渡れば天草諸島→長島と続いた島旅を終えて本土に戻るというわけだ。

ちなみにこの橋は海峡にあり潮と潮がちょうどぶつかり合うので、息ができないほどの凄まじい風とともに小さな渦潮がいくつも出来ていて見応えたっぷりだった。最後の最後までエンターテイナーな長島を名残惜しみながら越えて本土帰還。

帰還してすぐに後ろから話しかけられてお昼ご飯分のパンを頂いたり、そこから30分ほど経ってからさらに違う人におにぎりを頂いたり、とにかく九州の人は優しい。そういえばジョーも「気温が暖かいように、人も暖かいよ、九州」と言っていたが確かにその通りだ。改めて思う

そして本土に入った途端にあんなにたくさんあった段々畑がパタンと消えたのがまた不思議な感覚がする。本土には本土ののどかな風景があるのだ。

そこからまた10キロほど歩いて阿久根市街へ

いなかの商店街をまっすぐ南へ進んで

南国バスっていう響きとこの傾き具合がたまらない

気づけば日が暮れてきた。

海沿いなことも、ここが西の果ての方ということもあってまだまだ日は差して明るいがやはり16時を超えるとガクッと寒くなる

夕日が沈む絶景の道を南へ

日が当たる右半身が火照る

随分と独善的な美しさだ

夕日が目立つ代わりにその他の全ては黒に染まる、だがシルエットがあるからこそ夕日が支えられてて際立つし、時には黒が主役の時だってある。この写真だってシルエットが美しいからこそ絵になるのだ。

そして今日の目的地。道の駅阿久根に到着

ここから夜は予想外の方向へ、長い夜が始まった

歩行距離 40キロ

熊本県天草市→鹿児島県阿久根市

総歩行距離 3732キロ

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

714 件のコメント

  • After study a few of the blog posts on your website now, and I truly like your way of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back soon. Pls check out my web site as well and let me know what you think.

  • Its like you read my mind! You appear to know so much approximately this, such as you wrote the e-book in it or something. I believe that you can do with a few p.c. to drive the message home a bit, but instead of that, that is fantastic blog. A great read. I will certainly be back.

  • Incredible! This blog looks just like my old one! It’s on a entirely different subject but it has pretty much the same layout and design. Outstanding choice of colors!

  • hey there and thank you to your info – I have certainly picked up anything new from right here. I did on the other hand experience some technical points using this web site, as I experienced to reload the website a lot of instances previous to I may just get it to load correctly. I had been puzzling over if your web host is OK? Now not that I am complaining, but slow loading cases occasions will sometimes impact your placement in google and can damage your high quality score if advertising and ***********|advertising|advertising|advertising and *********** with Adwords. Well I’m including this RSS to my email and can look out for much extra of your respective fascinating content. Make sure you replace this once more very soon..

  • I like what you guys are up also. Such smart work and reporting! Carry on the excellent works guys I have incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think it will improve the value of my website :).

  • I’ve been exploring for a little for any high-quality articles or weblog posts on this sort of space . Exploring in Yahoo I eventually stumbled upon this website. Studying this information So i am glad to show that I have an incredibly just right uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I such a lot indisputably will make sure to do not forget this web site and provides it a glance on a continuing basis.

  • I would like to thnkx for the efforts you have put in writing this web site. I’m hoping the same high-grade web site post from you in the upcoming as well. In fact your creative writing skills has inspired me to get my own blog now. Actually the blogging is spreading its wings rapidly. Your write up is a great example of it.

  • Thanks for the sensible critique. Me & my neighbor were just preparing to do a little research about this. We got a grab a book from our area library but I think I learned more from this post. I’m very glad to see such wonderful info being shared freely out there.

  • I’m now not positive the place you’re getting your info, however great topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or figuring out more. Thanks for fantastic info I was on the lookout for this info for my mission.

  • This blog is definitely rather handy since I’m at the moment creating an internet floral website – although I am only starting out therefore it’s really fairly small, nothing like this site. Can link to a few of the posts here as they are quite. Thanks much. Zoey Olsen

  • Hey there! This post could not be written any better! Reading this post reminds me of my previous room mate! He always kept chatting about this. I will forward this write-up to him. Fairly certain he will have a good read. Thank you for sharing!

  • I’ve been exploring for a bit for any high quality articles or weblog posts in this sort of space . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this site. Reading this information So i’m satisfied to show that I’ve an incredibly good uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I such a lot without a doubt will make certain to don’t disregard this site and give it a glance on a relentless basis.

  • I beloved as much as you will receive performed right here. The caricature is attractive, your authored material stylish. nevertheless, you command get got an shakiness over that you wish be turning in the following. sick indubitably come more formerly again since precisely the similar nearly a lot often inside of case you defend this increase.

  • Have you ever thought about adding a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is important and all. But imagine if you added some great photos or videos to give your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with images and videos, this site could certainly be one of the most beneficial in its niche. Amazing blog!

  • I do trust all the ideas you’ve introduced on your post.
    They are very convincing and will certainly work.
    Still, the posts are too brief for starters. Could you please extend them a little from subsequent time?

    Thanks for the post.

  • Hello There. I found your blog using msn. This is a really smartly written article.
    I’ll be sure to bookmark it and come back to read more of your helpful info.
    Thank you for the post. I will certainly comeback.

  • Thank you for another informative website. The place else could I get that
    type of info written in such a perfect method? I’ve a challenge that I’m
    simply now operating on, and I’ve been at the
    glance out for such info.

  • It is the best time to make a few plans for the future and it’s time
    to be happy. I have read this put up and if I could I want to counsel
    you some interesting things or suggestions. Maybe you could write subsequent articles
    regarding this article. I desire to read more issues approximately it!

  • Hello there, I believe your website might be having web browser compatibility issues.
    Whenever I take a look at your website in Safari, it looks fine however, when opening in IE, it
    has some overlapping issues. I simply wanted to give you a quick heads
    up! Besides that, excellent site!

  • Hi, I do believe this is an excellent web site.
    I stumbledupon it 😉 I am going to come back once again since i have book
    marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change,
    may you be rich and continue to guide other people.

  • A person essentially help to make severely posts I might state.
    This is the first time I frequented your web page and thus far?

    I surprised with the research you made to create this particular put up extraordinary.
    Great task!

  • Simply desire to say your article is as astounding.
    The clarity for your submit is simply great and i
    could suppose you’re an expert on this subject.
    Fine together with your permission allow me to grab your RSS feed to stay updated with drawing
    close post. Thanks one million and please carry on the gratifying work.

  • I’m really loving the theme/design of your site. Do you ever run into any browser compatibility issues?
    A small number of my blog readers have complained about my website not operating correctly in Explorer
    but looks great in Chrome. Do you have any tips to help
    fix this issue?

  • My brother suggested I might like this website. He was entirely right.
    This post truly made my day. You cann’t imagine simply how much time I had spent for this info!
    Thanks!

  • I’m extremely impressed with your writing skills and also with the layout on your weblog.
    Is this a paid theme or did you modify it yourself?
    Anyway keep up the excellent quality writing, it is rare to see
    a nice blog like this one nowadays.

  • Somebody essentially lend a hand to make significantly articles I’d state. That is the first time I frequented your website page and up to now? I amazed with the analysis you made to create this actual submit extraordinary. Excellent task!

  • Hi there! This post couldn’t be written any better! Reading through this post reminds me of my previous room mate! He always kept talking about this. I will forward this article to him. Pretty sure he will have a good read. Thank you for sharing!

  • Good post. I learn something more difficult on totally different blogs everyday. It’ll always be stimulating to read content material from other writers and observe just a little something from their store. I’d want to make use of some with the content material on my blog whether you don’t mind. Natually I’ll provide you with a hyperlink in your web blog. Thanks for sharing.

  • Please let me know if you’re looking for a writer for your weblog. You have some really good articles and I think I would be a good asset. If you ever want to take some of the load off, I’d really like to write some articles for your blog in exchange for a link back to mine. Please shoot me an email if interested. Thanks!

  • [url=https://lexapro10.com/]lexapro generic[/url] [url=https://stratteramed.com/]cost of strattera[/url] [url=https://tretinoinsale.com/]buy tretinoin cream[/url] [url=https://advair1.com/]advair diskus price[/url] [url=https://kamagraxr.com/]kamagra online pharmacy uk[/url]

  • Hey! Someone in my Facebook group shared this site with us so I came to check it out.
    I’m definitely enjoying the information. I’m bookmarking and will
    be tweeting this to my followers! Outstanding blog and brilliant design.

  • Welcome to the bodybuilding and fitness-related website which gives you more than what it just said!

    The reason we created this website is to ensure the improved health of many men and women around the world who are in dire need for supplementations, natural supplements we shall say. Our topics are restricted to natural products only including:

    Natural legal steroids for bodybuilding
    Dietary supplements for weight loss
    CBD Products
    What we are dealing with here is providing the basic information about these products and how do they work for your purposes. We are in touch with a plethora of supplement industries which are the dedicated names in multiple health categories.

    With the help of our scientific expert’s data and medical writers, we provide honest reviews, unbiased judgments and general information about natural supplements. Some experts in our team also feel positive in terms of sharing their own experience after using some of our top-rated health supplements.

  • Hello there, just became aware of your blog through Google, and found that it is truly informative.
    I’m going to watch out for brussels. I will appreciate if you continue this in future.
    A lot of people will be benefited from your writing.
    Cheers!

  • I got this web page from my pal who shared with me about this web page
    and at the moment this time I am visiting this web page and reading very informative posts at this time.

  • Thanks for a marvelous posting! I genuinely enjoyed reading it, you’re a great author.I will remember to bookmark your blog and definitely will come back sometime soon. I want to encourage continue your great work, have a nice evening!

  • Thanks, I have recently been searching for info approximately this subject for a while and yours is the greatest I have found out till now. However, what in regards to the conclusion? Are you positive concerning the supply?

  • Thanks for ones marvelous posting! I definitely enjoyed reading it, you may be a great author.
    I will be sure to bookmark your blog and may come back in the future.
    I want to encourage you to definitely continue your great job, have a nice holiday weekend!

  • Definitely believe that which you stated. Your favorite reason appeared to be on the net the simplest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I certainly get annoyed while people think about worries that they just don’t know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top and defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people can take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks