タイムリミット(徒歩日本縦断#68)

68日目の今日は遍路宿ととろっとで起床

光熱費代の寄進という形でお遍路さんが1000円で泊まれるこの宿は、綺麗な布団にお風呂に洗濯に、全てが揃った完璧な宿だった。1000円なのが申し訳ないくらいだ。

昨日の夜は久しぶりにテレビをつけてラグビーを見るなど、文明の利器を使って過ごしていた。テレビなんていつぶりだろう。

そんな今日は高知唯一の遍路ころがしと言われる山の頂上にある27番札所のお寺「神峯寺(こうのみね)」と28番札所のお寺「大日寺」へと向かう。ちなみに大日寺という名前は徳島で2個あるので既に3寺目だ。

まずは神峯寺までスタートから9キロの道のり

そして神峯寺から大日寺までは38.5キロほど歩かなければならない。お寺の納経時間は夕方の5時までなので、5時に間に合うように50キロほど歩くという、なかなかハードな1日となりそうだ

ということで早めにスタートを心がけて朝の5時半に出発。神峯寺に納経時間が始まる朝の7時に辿り着くつもりでいたが、歩き始めて1キロを過ぎたあたりでいつもと違うことに気づいてしまう

「金剛杖がない…」

やらかした。ただでさえタイムリミットがある今日に限って宿においてきてしまった。

急いで取りに戻って30分のタイムロスに加えて歩く距離も2キロ増え、結局今日も50キロ歩くことが朝から決定してしまう。

だがこれに関しては100パー自分が悪いし、仕方ない。いい教訓の2キロだと思って再度朝6時に宿をスタート。

今日は昨日の朝と打って変わっていい天気だ。

国道55号を海沿いに4キロほど西へ歩いてから、いよいよ神峯寺への山道へとそれていく

海抜ゼロメートルの海岸から急激に山となる神峯寺は「真っ縦」と言われ、確かに斜度はえぐい。加えて基本歩き遍路も車道を上がることになるので、なかなか足にダメージが蓄積されていく。

そしてちょくちょく未舗装の山道を挟んで車道の九十九折をショートカット

「マムシ注意とか書かれたら逆に怖いねん」

なんて毒づきながら登っていく。

今日は横石がこの山道を最初に登り始めたらしく、異様に蜘蛛の巣に引っかかるのがまた地味な嫌がらせである。

それでも無事に高知唯一の遍路ころがしを朝の元気で登りきり

27番神峯寺に到着。

なんとも威厳のある山門をくぐり抜けると

さらなる絶望を叩きつけてくる

本堂と大師堂はさらに上なのだ

半分ヤケになって一段飛ばしで登りきって

無事参拝完了。

誰もいなかったので坊主君とツーショットを撮って下山開始。

無事に9時前に下山して、いざ次の38.5キロ離れた大日寺に向けて歩き出す。

タイムリミットは5時なので、1時間休憩を挟んで時速5キロで歩き続ければ間に合うはずだ(それが一番きついんだけどね)

歩き始めて5キロもすれば安芸市に入って、そこからは徳島市ぶりの栄えた街が続く

10キロ進んで午前11時に安芸市街へ

ここでコンビニに寄って早めの昼ごはんを済ませて

安芸市から更に3キロほど進めば

高知安芸自転車道という海沿いの絶景道路に入っていく。

ここは本当にオススメ出来るし、レンタサイクルも出来るので、高知に来た際は是非寄ってほしい場所の1つだ。

そしてここから20キロほどは左に青い太平洋という抜群のロケーションを歩く

ヤシの木も生えた南国感溢れるこの道は、自転車日本一周の時に昔からこのブログを読んでくださっているみなさん懐かしのカイトと走ったお気に入りの道だ。

今度は歩きできてしまった。

この海を見ながら歩き続けられるのは幸せなのだが、今日の高知は28度。もう11月になるとは思えない暑さで、しかも日陰はほとんどないこの道。暑さにやられながらも歩いていく。久しぶりに水を2リットルは飲んだだろうか

12時を過ぎたあたりで大日寺までは残り22キロ

1時間5キロペースで歩き続ければ4時半には着くが、そんなに甘くないのが歩き旅。

既に30キロ弱歩いている身体で、この暑さで、そのペースは簡単には維持できない。

たまにある日陰の道でペースを上げ、海沿いに出ればまたペースを落として、身体と相談しながら歩きつづける。

毎日、その日に決めた目標くらいは達成したいので、意地でも歩き続ける。

唯一の救いは道中がなかなか楽しいことだろう

味のある廃船や

これまたなんとも味のある遍路小屋

そして雄大に広がる青い海。

そんな見る目を飽きさせない風景が力になって、暑さにも負けずになんとかこの自転車道を歩ききって、時刻は午後3時。残りは8.5キロなのでギリギリ間に合いそうだ。

だけど昨日も50キロ。そして今日も既に40キロ以上歩いた身体は流石に疲労が見え始めていたので

綺麗な遍路休憩所に立ち寄って、10分ほど休憩

ここはまさかのドリンクサーバーがあって、冷たいほうじ茶をがぶ飲みさせてもらった。

そしてそのまま気合で歩ききって

午後4時50分。納経時間の終わる10分前に何とか50キロ歩ききって28番大日寺に辿り着いた

歩行時間10時間半で50キロなので、なかなか良いペースで歩けたのではないだろうか。

そして今日は

このまま大日寺の通夜堂を借りて寝かせてもらう。

八十八ケ所すべてのお寺にあるわけではないが、たまにこうやって通夜堂で寝かせてくださるありがたいお寺があるのだ。これもまたお接待の心なんだろう。

今日は2日で100キロ歩いた身体をゆっくり休めて、明日はいよいよ高知市だ。

久しぶりにお寺の密集地域なので6寺回ろうと思っている。

それではおやすみなさいませ。

歩行距離 50キロ

高知県田野町→香南市

総歩行距離 2274キロ

お遍路総歩行距離 323キロ

27番神峯寺→28番大日寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので、是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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