75日目の今日は宿毛の遍路小屋にて起床

テント3張りはいける
今朝は朝から少しイラついた
というのも、このスペースに横石以外のおっちゃんが2人寝ていたのだが、そのうち1人が朝っぱらから自慢げに「俺はもうここで3週間テント張ってるんだけどさぁ」と言ってきたからだ
え?あなたお遍路さんなんでしょ?
しかもここ宿毛の町の中なんだよ?近隣住民に迷惑だし、通報でもされたらこれから宿泊禁止になっちゃうかもしれないんだよ?あなたのせいで。野宿はマナーがなってないとただのホームレスなのを忘れちゃいけないのをこの人は忘れていた
ついついイライラして、「そろそろお遍路再開したほうがいいんじゃないですか?(^^)」で自慢話の会話を終わらせて早々と歩き始める。

宿毛の町は日曜の朝というのもあって静かだ
人1人いない静寂を歩く
今日は宇和島市街の10キロ手前にある津島の道の駅まで51キロの道のり
というのも津島の道の駅は温泉併設の神駅なのだ。行くしかなかろう。もう徳島から10日間は温泉に入れてないんだこっちは。
宿毛市街を抜けるとここからはひたすらアップダウンのある山越え

そして8キロほど歩いて

いよいよ修行の道場高知県も終わり、菩提の道場と言われる愛媛県に入る。
高知県はとにかく札所間の距離が長いところが多くて400キロ近く歩いたが、愛媛も高知に比べれば劣るが、距離的には長い。そしてなにより山岳地帯が最も多いのがこの愛媛県だ。修行の道場が終わったからと言ってまだまだ気を抜いてはならないのだ。むしろ高知の疲労が残るここからの山越えが本当の意味での修行かもしれない。
そんな心配とは裏腹に気持ちのいい晴れ
気温もやっと暑くもなく寒くもないちょうどいい気温になっていた

そして山道を20キロほど歩いて、愛媛最初の町、愛南町の市街地へ出る
これまた愛媛最初の札所 40番観自在寺はこの市街地のど真ん中にあるのだ

国道56号からそれで川を渡れば

すぐそこに40番観自在寺はある
愛媛最初の札所はあっけなく辿り着いてしまった。綺麗に手入れをされたお寺である
しっかり参拝をこなして、次の41番龍光寺へ!
と思いきやそんなに簡単ではない
次の龍光寺は観自在寺から50キロ離れているからだ
しかもその道中は細かい峠(100-200m級)の数々と500m級の峠が一つあるという、どうやら早速愛媛の洗礼を浴びるようだ。
最初の観自在寺にあっけなく着いてしまっただけにさらに遠く感じるが仕方あるまい
「修行の道場で鍛えた歩きを見せてやるぜ」と意気込んで観自在寺をちょうど昼の12時に出る
今日の目的地の津島の町までは500m級の峠を越えながら後29キロ歩かなければいけないので、少し早足でスタート

愛南町には「お?!西日本きたなぁ」と実感するこのファミレスがあった。関東人には全く馴染みがないのがまた面白いが西日本に来たならジョイフルだ。安くてうまいんだわこれが。
そして市街地を抜けると

まず8キロほど緩いアップダウンを繰り返して、海沿いに出る

由良半島の海はこれまた南国感溢れる綺麗な海だ。そしてなにより愛南から宇和島に向かうこの道は毎回風が強い。しかも向かい風。自転車の時もこの風に悩まされたが今回もまた強かった。
そしてこの海沿いから旧内海村という海沿いの集落に出て

ここで国道56号を右に逸れて「柏坂」という遍路道に入っていく。未舗装の山道で41番にいくまでの最大の難所だ。標高は500mまで上がるのだからなかなかのもの。

内海村を700mほど奥に進むと柏坂への遍路道が始まる。気合を入れて登り始める

柏坂は遍路道としてはなかなか整備されている方で歩きやすい。だけどやっぱり3キロで500mを駆け上がるというと斜度はなかなかのもので、ざっと平均しても15-20パーはあるだろうか。汗をかきながら登っていく。

小一時間で頂上に辿り着くが、そこから直ぐに下るわけではなく、しばらくは平坦な未舗装の山道が続く。

道中拓けた視界から望む由良半島の海に心を奪われながらも、未舗装の山道の長さに多少の疲れが出てくる

「馬の背」と言われる山の稜線を歩いたり

シダが生い茂り過ぎている中をかき分けたり
なかなかスリリングな遍路道だ
しかも下りの遍路道に限って滑りやすい地面で苔も生えていて、神経をすり減らして下るせいで疲れが溜まるのだ
12番焼山寺以来となる未舗装の山道の長さなのでは無いだろうか?国道56号に再度出るまでの約9キロほどはこんな山道で、国道56号に出た時にはヘロヘロになっていた笑
だけど、56号に出て仕舞えば今日の道の駅までは後7キロほど。時刻も午後四時を回ったところなので、日暮れ前までには着くと見込んで少し休憩を入れて再出発

薄暗くなっていく中、津島の市街地に出て、

そのまま滑りこむように道の駅へ

ゴール。そして温泉へ
徳島の宍喰以来10日ぶりとなる温泉、というかもはや湯船は、夢見心地だった。今でもふわふわ浮いている気分だ
身体がふやけるまで入り込んで、たまった疲れもとって、今日はこの道の駅の東屋にテントを張った
歩行距離 51キロ
高知県宿毛市→愛媛県宇和島市
総歩行距離 2596キロ

お遍路14日と半分
総歩行距離 645キロ
40番 観自在寺
今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

今日もお疲れ様(*˘︶˘*).。.:*♡
ゆっくり休んで、明日からも応援してるね😊🎉
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