雲の辺り(徒歩日本縦断#82)

82日目の今日は愛媛最後の札所三角寺の手前7キロ地点にある遍路小屋にテントを張って起床

国道沿いなのもあって多少車の音は気になったが、疲れもあって寝ることができた

そんな今日はそんなまず65番三角寺を参拝してからいよいよ最後の舞台となる香川県へ

香川最初の札所である66番雲辺寺は文字通り雲まで届くほどの高さにあり標高910m。お遍路の札所中最高峰の難所である

ちなみに愛媛最後の札所三角寺も標高350mのそこそこな山にあるので、今日は二個の山越え。ハードな1日となりそうだ

今日は1日雨は降らないが曇り空の予報

朝の6時15分に歩き始める

もはや当たり前の風景と化した毎日の山登り

まずは三角寺に行くまでに4キロほどの山道だ

傾斜自体さほどきつくはないが、それでも未舗装山道は斜度15パーなど当たり前のようにある

朝から汗をかきながら登る。もう11月だというのにノースリーブで山を登る男一匹

道中四国中央市街を見渡す贅沢な風景を拝みながら。遍路道は粋だなぁとつくづく思う。辛い山道にはこうやってちゃっかりご褒美を与えてくれる。

そして午前8時前

愛媛最後の札所。65番三角寺へ

愛媛は長かった。高知に次ぐ350キロ超えの長さでかつ、山が多い。正直辛かったが、それを毎日50キロ歩き続けて1週間で踏破した横石は確実にまた一つ強くなった。

最後にお大師さまに愛媛が無事終わったことへの感謝と最後の香川での無事を祈願して深くお辞儀。そしていよいよ次の香川最初の札所であり最後の難所である雲辺寺へ

標高910mの雲辺寺へは、三角寺から18キロ

三角寺の峠を一回下ってからまた910mまで登り直さなければならないなかなか鬼畜なルートだまずは峠を下る

下ってる道中は「ここで休憩してください」と言わんばかりの椅子とテーブルがあったので休んでみたり、緩い下りだったので膝に負担なく降りて

4キロほど下ると小さな集落に出る。

棚田広がる日本の原風景の小道は高速道路を潜り抜けて国道192号に合流。ここらへんで横石のお母さんくらいの年齢の女性の方と一緒になり、しばらく歩く。どうやら雲辺寺手前の最後の佐野という集落まで歩くようなのでそこまではご一緒することに。

この方は二児の母で、しかも子供は横石と同年齢。お姉ちゃんは一個上で年子という完全に横石家とシンクロした家庭で話が弾んだ

それにしても旅は不思議だ。こうやって普段出会うことのない年齢も地元も全く交わることのない方々と仲良く話しながら最後にはお互いの無事を祈るほど寂しくなるのだから。

そんなお母さんと国道192号沿いを6キロほど歩くと、境目トンネルという長いトンネルを越えて

なんとトンネルの出口では香川県ではなく徳島県へ戻ってきた

どうやらここらへんは愛媛、徳島、香川の三県が跨る四国の中心部らしい

その証拠に

四国のどの県庁所在地も80キロほどの距離という中心っぷりだ。

そんな珍しい国道をしばらく歩くと…

佐野の集落が見えてきた。お母さんはここまで、そして横石は遍路ころがしの異名をとるお遍路最高峰の難所雲辺寺に挑む。

餞別としてジュースを一本いただいたので有り難く受け取って、いざ出陣。

ここから舗装路の登り道に出るまでの2キロで未舗装の山道を標高400m登るという厳しい道のり

平均斜度は20%。みんなこれ聞いてもイマイチパッと来てないかもしれないけど、家の周りで思いつく坂道を想像してほしい。あそこってどんなに急でも大体5%くらいだから。それの4倍のしかも未舗装だと思ってもらえれば厳しさが少しは伝わるか。

登り始めると

初っ端は意味わからないくらいの斜度の舗装されている小道を通って

そこからは未舗装の山道。

しかも斜度もさることながらなかなか荒れてる

倒木をくぐったり跨いだりしながら滝のような汗を撒き散らして必死で登り続けること約30分

やっとの思いで舗装路に出る。

舗装路に出てからは、緩やかになった登り道を汗を冷やしながら3キロほど歩いて

香川最初の札所。66番雲辺寺に到達

名前の通り高すぎる場所にある厳しいお寺だったが、日曜というのもあって人はたくさん。

どうやら麓からロープウェイが出ているようだ

香川最初の参拝を済ませて時刻は1時。

ここから次の67番大興寺までは約10キロでその半分は未舗装の山道の下り坂だ

もはや少し怖くなるレベルのおじさん石像集団を抜けて

山道へ。

下りは登りほど急ではなく、スムーズに降りることが出来たが、やはり後半は膝が痛くなって脂汗。もはや仕方ないことだが、本当に下りは「怪我」という意味で怖い。

下り途中でやけに感動した看板を見つけたのでお裾分け。

そして午後3時に大興寺に辿り着く。

そんな大興寺では納経所で前に並んでいたおらちゃんが空気を読まず一人で10冊も納経してもらっていて10分ほどその人のために待つ時間となって多少いらつく。遍路中なのに情けない限りだ。深呼吸して落ち着いて、今日ラストの68番と69番札所へ(68番神恵院と69番観音寺は88箇所中唯一同じ場所に札所が二つあるラッキーゾーンなのだ)

ちなみに大興寺のおばさんのせいで15分足止めされたので、8.6キロ離れた神恵院に納経時間の17時に間に合うかは微妙となったので、秘技ラックサックマーチを使う(自衛隊の兄貴に教わった1時間で6キロ歩くことのできる魔法、疲れるので1日2時間が限界)

そして歩いてる最中に感じた香川のイメージは溜池と野犬だ。

溜池に関しては密度に関しては日本でダントツのナンバーワンらしい。雨が少ない気候が影響しているのか。実際そこら中に溜池がある。

そして野犬に関してが一番怖い。

マジでそこらへんに群れでいて牙を向いて吠えてくる。

「日本にも野犬っているんだ」という感情と同時に「犬って怖い」という人生で初めての感情を味わった。これじゃあ狼と一緒だ。

そんな恐怖を振り払うためにもラックサックマーチで早歩きしながら

時速6キロをさらに上回るスピードでスパートをかけて午後4時45分に観音寺と神恵院に到着

二つのお寺が同時にあるので、スムーズに巡拝して、納経も完了。

そして今日は観音寺にある大学の友達の実家にお世話になる。

ここは自転車日本一周の時も昼ごはんやシャワー洗濯をお世話になっているご家族だが、今回は泊まらせていただくのだ

ということで7日ぶりのシャワーとお風呂に浸からせてもらって(まじでこの1週間そんな暇もなく、ただ歩いた)

豪華な夜ご飯を頂く。涙が出そうなくらい温かい料理とご家族だ。1ヶ月以上ぶりに飲んだ生ビールも格別に感じる。

お腹がパンパンになるまで食べ飲みさせていただいて、今日は気持ちよく寝れそうだ。

そして明日からはいよいよ本格的な香川の旅路がスタートだ。最後にどんな姿を見せてくれるかな…

歩行距離 44キロ

愛媛県四国中央市→香川県観音寺市

総歩行距離 2942キロ

お遍路総歩行距離 994キロ

65番三角寺→66番雲辺寺→67番大興寺→68番神恵院→69番観音寺

今日も最後まで読んでいただきありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているのでぜひ下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周へ


にほんブログ村

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