23日目の今日はいよいよ本州
昨晩の21時15分苫小牧発のフェリーに乗り込み、7時間半の船旅だ

北海道は645キロの旅路だったが、本州は青森から山口の関門海峡まで2000キロはくだらない長きにわたる旅路になるだろう。特に今回は前回の歩き旅で通っていない道のりを歩くので、本州に関してはより距離が長い太平洋側をしばらくは歩いていく。
そんな旅路の前なので、疲れを癒すためにもフェリーの空間は大事だ。出来れば7時間半をフルに使って休みたい。
まず乗船。もちろん1番安い二等の雑魚寝部屋だが

はい。誰もいません。コロナの影響なのだろうか。30人入る部屋に一人で寝る事になった。
1番安いくせに1番広い個室レベルだ
ソーシャルディスタンスもバッチリで安心しながら

なんと展望風呂も設置されていたので、綺麗なお風呂で北海道最後の夜景を見ながら体の汚れを落としスッキリ。
めちゃくちゃ綺麗やなこのフェリー。これなら7時間半とは言わず10時間くらい乗らせていただきたい。そもそも4時45分に八戸に着く時点で眠くなるのは確定なのだから。

残念ながらフェリーにサックラは売ってなかったが、生ビールで一人静かに乾杯。お世話になった北海道に想いを馳せ、次の本州への期待と少しの不安を抱きながら、眠りに落ちた。
そして朝

日が昇ると同時に八戸港へ上陸。
いよいよ本州の旅路が始まる。
はじめの一歩はいつも浮き足立つが、ここから関門海峡まで、無事に辿り着いた自分の姿をイメージして、確かな一歩を踏みしめた。
始まりの今日は、八戸港から33キロ進んだ岩手との県境である三戸町までだ。
岩手県に関しては海沿いのルートと内陸のルートの2種類の選択肢があったが、自転車の時に海沿いを通っていることもあり、今回は県庁所在地の盛岡を通る内陸へと進むことに。

歩き始めて最初はフェリーターミナルから八戸市街へ進む。今まで通ってきた釧路→帯広→苫小牧のどの地域より人口が多い八戸市街は交通量も北海道に比べると格段に上がり、何故か少し緊張してしまう。まぁ徐々に慣れてくるか
新しく変えた靴が1番の心配だったが、最初の10キロはなんの異常もなく難なくクリア。これだったら靴擦れやマメは心配なさそうだ。新しい靴はまだ馴染んでなく硬いので疲労は溜まりやすいがそれは仕方ない。
しかしまぁピーカンで暑くなってきたので、市街を抜けたコンビニで少し休憩していると。

爽やかでめちゃくちゃイケメンな、おじさんと呼ぶにも忍びないレベルの俳優のような男性に声をかけていただき、1リットルのアクエリアスを差し入れしていただいた。
うーん。この暑さでこの差し入れは本当にありがたい。ありがたく頂戴し少しお話をして先へ進む。

次の南部町に入ると、ウォーキング中だった方にさらに差し入れをいただく。ちょうど空いたペットボトルと移し替えてありがたく水分補給。チオビタドリンクもいただきその場で飲み干し、炎天下の中をさらに進む

南部町に入ると市街地から一変、のどかな田園風景と山が続くエリアに入る。止まらない気温上昇の中、さらに別の方からリポDをいただき、2段階目の気合を入れる(いろんな方に差し入れをいただき、歓迎されているようでかなり嬉しい本州初日だ)

そして歩き始めてから20キロほどでついに見えてきた国道4号の標識。4号は東北地方の大動脈で青森から東京までの700キロに渡って続く。4号を真っ直ぐ突き進めば東京に辿り着くという浪漫もあるが、まぁ横石は宮城あたりで4号は逸れる予定だ。しかしそれまでは4号中心に歩いていくのでやっと東北のスタート地点に立ったような気もするのがこの4号なのだ。

道沿いに広がるのは、どこか懐かしい気分に浸れる里山の原風景。
北海道の自然は息を呑むような圧倒的な大自然が多かったが、本州の自然はどこかホッと息をつけるような人と自然との温かな共存風景だ。
車の轍が伸びる道を少し歩いてみると、炎天下のアスファルトより体感気温が5度ほどは下がる。そよ風もどこか涼しげで「夏」という存在が匂い付きでそのまま運ばれてくる感じだ。
だが正午も過ぎ、アスファルトに戻ると流石にめちゃくちゃ暑い。北海道の夏が涼し過ぎただけだが、今の横石には32度でもキツいものがある(明日の予想最高気温は34度)
幸いにもフェリーの時間が早く、歩き始めた時間もかなり早かったため(普段なら50キロ歩く時のレベル)午後の残り10キロ程度は日陰を見つけたりコンビニを見つけては休憩を入れるスタイルでのんびり歩くことに。急いで熱中症になっても世話ないしね

それにしても本州は北海道ほど町と町が離れていなく、田舎といえど5キロおきにはコンビニ。2.3キロごとには休めそうな涼しい木陰があるおかげでだいぶ助かる。きっと北海道が本州の暑さだったら旅人の結構な数が太陽からの逃げ場がなくて死んでるだろうレベルだ。(北海道はドラクエみたいとよく称するが、本当にその通りで、町と町の間の2.30キロは本当になにもないのが北海道なのだ)

そして今日の目的地 三戸町へ
本当に暑い日だったので、慣れるまでの課金は致し方なしと普段は水道水を汲む旅路もアクエリアスなどを中心に4リットルほどは飲んだだろうか。随分と汗をかいた日だった。
今日は本州定番の道の駅野宿だ。

今回は今までの旅路で通ってないルートなのでこれからの寝床探しに苦労しそうだが(特に岩手はコロナに敏感だし)なるべく他人に迷惑をかけずに旅を続けていきたいと思う。
まず本州初日は慣れない暑さと新しい靴の心配があったが、上々の滑り出しだ。靴もなんら問題ないし(むしろ今までで一番しっくりくる)暑さに対する対処も悪くはないだろう。
明日はさらに暑くなる予報だが、気を抜かずに南下を続けていく次第だ。
とりあえず野宿先をピックアップしなきゃ笑
歩行距離 33キロ
北海道苫小牧市→青森県八戸市→南部町→三戸町
総歩行距離 678キロ

今日もブログを読んでくださりありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

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