110日目の今日は本部港近くの公園で起床

鹿児島から本部港に着くのはいつも夕方なのでそのまま野宿するために去年からお世話になっている場所だが、管理棟の広い軒下で雨風を凌げる絶好の野宿スポットだ。
今日は同い年ライダーも一緒に寝ていたので安心感もあって熟睡
朝はいつも通り6時には目が覚めて「6時半頃にテント片付けようかなー」と思いながら外を眺めると驚愕したのがすでに6時半ともなろう朝なのに外が真っ暗だったことだ。
さすが沖縄、、日の入りも遅い分、日の出も遅いことをすっかり忘れていた、、
本格的に明るくなり始めたのは朝7時過ぎ
それからのんびりテントを片付けていざ沖縄編がスタートだ

今回の沖縄は去年南部を中心に歩いたのでぐるっと北部を回って那覇まで歩く。北部といえばヤンバルの森が広がる沖縄でも秘境中の秘境エリア。距離もだいぶ長く、大体那覇に辿り着くまでに200キロは優に超える歩行距離となる。
そして天気予報はこの一週間一つも晴れマークが出ない最悪の天気。風も強いらしい。
しかしこれも沖縄あるあるで、水温の高い海に囲まれて高い山もない沖縄は曇りや雨予報でも晴れることはあるし、逆に晴れ予報でも当たり前のようにスコールが降ってくるので、まぁあまり当てにはしないことにしよう(それにしても天気がぐずつくのは確かだけど、なんか毎年沖縄は最初天気悪いジンクスあるんだよなぁ…)
そして今朝もぐずつく天気。
雨は降っていなかったので歩き出したが、ほんの数分後にはすぐにスコールのような大雨でビショビショだ。初っ端から手荒い洗礼を受けながらまずは名護市街方面へ歩いていく

しかしまぁ海は曇り空でもこの青さ。
遠浅の海にコーラルリーフが広がる沖縄の海だからこその色合いだろうけど、サンゴと砂地が上手く合わさって深い神秘的な青色を醸し出している。
もはや塩辛い海なはずなのにブルーハワイのように甘そうな色だ。

沖縄の海はレベルが違うとはよくいうが、もはや本土と比べるということが間違ってる気がする。こうして歩いて旅をしているとわかるが、やはり沖縄は鹿児島からも700キロほど南西に位置する離れ島だし、気候や風土何もかもが別世界なのだ。

これで晴れてたらどれだけ青いのだろうか、、
もはや目が痛くなりそうなほどの青なんだろうなぁ

そして相変わらずコンクリート会社の前では辺野古埋立どうこうのデモをやっているが去年と全く同じ場所だ。まさかこれを毎日やっているのだろうか、、、

ふと横を見れば電照菊が広がる
電照菊とは本土の人にはあまり馴染みのない言葉だが、夜に電球の光を当てることで菊を育てるという栽培方法でその夜景は沖縄ならではの風景として有名だ。
ちなみに横石はかりゆし58の電照菊という曲が大好きなので真昼間の電照菊でも大興奮した
是非かりゆし58の電照菊聞いてみてね。めっちゃいい曲です…
沖縄でしか見れない風景をこうして眺めると「沖縄来た感」出てくるなぁ、、ついに北海道からここまで歩いてきたんだなぁ、、

そして国道449号から58号に入り名護市街へ
58号は沖縄本島最北端の辺戸岬まで続く主要国道で、横石は日本最西端を目指しているのになぜか辺戸岬を目指して歩いていく

理由は大したことなくて
「どーせ北部行くなら辺戸岬も行くっしょ」
とか
「本土最南端まで行ったから本島最北端まで行ったら端っこと端っこで結ばれて気持ちええやん」くらいな気持ちだ。ゆるゆるです。
まぁあとは単純に最後の旅なので思う存分気の済むまで歩きたい。ただそれだけかな。
ちなみに沖縄は住んでる人もゆるゆる
看板もゆるゆる

ヤギ欲しいもんなぁ、、、
更に皆さんお優しいもので

オロナミンCや
2千円を握らせてくれる人(最近収支がもらう方が多くなってありがたい限りです…本当に日本の人は、いや、人間ってあったけぇ、、)

沖縄らしいシークワーサーを山程くれる人
(実際この3倍くらいもらってひたすら食べながら歩いてた。種をひたすら道端に飛ばしてたので10年後にこの道沿いはシークワーサー畑になってるはず…)

1番びっくりは「買い過ぎたから!」とマックのナゲットを15個くれた方。
なんとも豪快な差し入れだ
もちろんナゲット15個1人で食べるのは初めてだったけど、意外といけるもんだね。ただ夜飯は野菜ジュースだけでいいやってほど胃はもたれましたがお財布にもありがたくて嬉しい限りです、、



そして名護市街を横断して海沿いに出ると北東方面からの強烈な向かい風。気圧の傾きでこれから一週間程度は風が強い状態が続くらしいが、これほどとは、、歩くのもしんどい…
旅の最後の舞台にして神様はしっかり「ただでは終わらせんぞ」との如くこういうサプライズを用意してくれているものだ。
ここで沖縄本島を歩き切ってこそ石垣島に渡る切符をもらえるってもんだぜ。沢山の方の優しさや沖縄ならではの風景に背中を押されて向かい風に向かって1人歩き続ける。
姿勢は常に前傾姿勢、前のめりでいくぜ

午後からは少し晴れ間も見えて、強烈な向かい風の中でも僅かな青空に背中を押される。
かと思いきや今日計4回目もあったスコールでびしょ濡れになって、そんな身体がすぐさま風で乾いて、、
疲労度はいつもの歩行の1.5倍はあろうきつさだが、ある意味沖縄という海に囲まれ遮るものがない日本唯一の都道府県だからこその強風やスコール
これもまた一興というものだろう。

そして夕方、今日の目的地である沖縄最北の村、国頭村へ
ここから先はやんばるの森と言われる沖縄でも特別深い森が広がる地域だ。開発もされておらず今日野宿する道の駅の隣にあるコンビニを最後に120キロもの間コンビニさえない、広い日本の中でも僅かに残された本物の秘境だ。
固有種のヤンバルクイナをはじめとする様々な動植物が生き、その生態系も他にない無二の地域。一度来てみたかった場所だったのだ。
ヤンバルクイナを見れる可能性は季節的にも低く、「見れたら超ラッキー」程度だが、それでもヤンバルクイナが生息する唯一の地域を旅する、歩く、ということに意味があるのだ。
そしてなにより沖縄南部はだいぶ開発が進み、ずいぶんリゾート化されているからこそ、北部の原風景を拝まなければという旅人の使命感。
そして早速、歩いていると森の方から鳴り響く聞き慣れないセミの声
「じじじ、カァーン、じじじ、カァーン」と本土では聞かない蝉の声なので思わず立ち止まり耳を澄まして調べる。するとオオシマゼミというやんばるの森に生息する南西諸島の固有種の鳴き声ということが発覚
それを知っただけでゾクゾクしてしまった
これから歩くのは、そう。
まだ見ぬ南の森深く「ヤンバルの森」そのものなんだと…
歩行距離 41キロ
沖縄県本部町→国頭村
総歩行距離 3801キロ

今日もブログを読んでくださりありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

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