113日目の今日は名護市街にある名護湾を一望できるマンションの最上階にある部屋で起床。
なんでこんなところで寝ていたかというと、実は友達のたぴお(あだ名)がインターンをしている会社の社員の方がここに住んでいて、家主のゆーきさんの人柄や部屋が広いこともあってシェアハウスのように沢山の人が訪れる場所で、今回たぴおの計らいで泊めていただくことになったのだ(ちなみにたぴおも泊まってる)

素晴らしい眺望です。
そして昨晩はゆーきさんに連れられて、たぴおとボブさんというこれまた今ここに泊まっている男性の方と4人で名護のエントロというイタリアンに連れて行っていただいた。

若鶏のテリーヌに

ふわっふわなカレイのフライ

ちょっと名前忘れたけど美味しかったパスタみたいなやつに

やんばる豚のとろけるステーキ

そしてデザートと、お酒も飲みながらなんとも贅沢な時間を過ごした。
帰ってからも夜の海を眺めながら音楽なんか流してお酒片手に語り合う。
気づけば夜も遅くになってしまったが、それだけ楽しい時間を過ごせたなぁ、、
そして朝
今日は45キロを歩かなければいけないので6時過ぎには起床し、眠い目を擦りながら外の様子を見てみると
昨日の幸せな時間で運を使い果たしたかのように朝から雨が降り、風も強い…
「なんで45キロ歩くこの日に…」
このままずっと雨が降り続けば、実質半日は雨に打たれ続け歩かなければならない。
雨の日は体力も普段の1.5倍ほど消耗するし荷物や靴も濡れるので、そんな雨が長距離移動の日にぶち当たるともなれば萎えるものは萎えるのだ。
ただそこは北海道から沖縄まで、しかも去年に続いて歩いて来た男だ。去年から約8000キロ、1000万歩の歩みを続けて来た今では雨でも風でも「とりあえず歩こう」と思える強さがある。
どんな状況でも前に進むという粘り強さは本当に旅を重ねたからこそだろう。
ということで予定変更は無しで45キロを歩き始めた

たぴおに見送られて雨装備で名護市街をスタート(@y.yodaiは旅のインスタです)

ルートはひたすら南下し一気に那覇手前の北谷(ちゃたんって読むよ)までの国道58号だ

どんより天気だが相変わらずこの海
だけどそろそろ沖縄の晴れた海みたいですよねー?そんな声が聞こえて来たので去年全く同じ場所で撮った写真をどーぞ

はい。全然違いますね。沖縄さんはいつ本気出してくれるんでしょうか…
そんな名護湾の海沿いを10キロほど歩いて

次の恩納村へ(おんなそんって読むよ)
恩納村は沖縄屈指のリゾート地でそこかしこに一泊5万を超えるような高級ホテルが並ぶ。
ある意味横石と1番対極な土地だ。
そんな恩納村に入るまでは雨も止んでいることが多くとんとん拍子で進んできたが、お昼前から雨足が一気に強まってくる

たまらず道端の東屋に避難
しばらく止むのを待つが1時間経っても止むことはなく、むしろどんどん雲は黒く色づいていく…
そして遂に痺れを切らした。
多分今日がこの旅最後の正念場
この大雨の中の45キロという距離はもはや絶望感すらあるし、残りの距離もまだ30キロ…
まさに修羅の道へ進んでいく不退転の心待ち
風も強く折りたたみ傘もさせないので、この身一つで嵐のような雲の中に突入するしかない
行く手には永遠に続くとも思える黒い雲
歩き始めてものの数分でレインウェアを浸透するほどの雨で身体はびしょ濡れ
1時間も経てばゴアテックス仕様の靴もすり減った靴底から水が侵入し全身が雨に染まる
それでも雨宿りする場所すらなく、たとえこの状況で雨宿り出来たとしても身体を冷やすだけなので止まることは許されない。
歩き通すことが今できる一番の最善
そう思い
ただ前だけ見て
歩いていく
そして雨の中色んなことを思い出す
自転車旅の北海道で低体温症になりかけるほどびしょ濡れになって温かい便座を抱えて眠った日。
タクマと神社の軒下で雨宿りしながらバーナーの火で身体を温めた日。
カイトと台風が近づく中で自転車を走らせ続けて辿り着いた道の駅で暴風雨に震える夜を過ごした日。
クマに囲まれて絶望感を味わって眠れぬ夜を過ごした後の明け方、追い討ちのようにゲリラ豪雨がやってきてテントの四隅を手と足で支えながら一睡もせず耐えた朝。
決して簡単ではなかったこの5年間の旅路も耐えて耐えて耐えて超えてきた、だから今こうしてこの道の上をもう一度旅している。
そんな経験は自信となって辛い日でも前に進む活力になる。
「あの日に負けなかったんだから今日も負けない」そうやって思い出に頼るのはカッコ悪いと人は言うかもしれないけど、そういう忘れられない沢山の思い出を旅路の中で紡いできたことが自分の中の一番の誇りなんだと、今は思う。

あの列車に乗って行こう
はだしのままで飛び出して
あの列車に乗って行こう
土砂降りの痛みのなかを
傘もささず走っていく
いやらしさも汚ならしさも
むきだしにして走ってく
聖者なんてなれないよ
だけど生きてる方がいい
だから僕は歌うんだよ
精一杯でかい声で
約3時間ただひたすら歩き続けてようやく雨が少し小降りになった時、道の駅で初めて休憩

靴を脱いで靴下を絞ると出てくる大量の水
いくら沖縄とはいえ12月。もう足の感覚は無い
足の感覚を戻していくように、少しずつまた歩いていく。まだ雨は止まないがピークは越えたので後は失った体力を回復させつつ進んでいくだけだ
恩納村から読谷村(よみたんそん)さらにその先の基地で有名な嘉手納(かでな)の町に入った頃にはもうすっかり暗くなっていた

Yナンバーが目立つ米軍の町を駆け抜け

目的地の北谷に入った頃にはすっかり車の量が多くなる。もう那覇がすぐそこの位置まで来ていたのだ。
「よく来たなぁ、、」素直にそう自分を褒めて今日はゲストハウスにチェックイン
沖縄のゲストハウスは本当に格安なので旅人にとっては最高だし、綺麗なところも多い

まずゆっくりと熱々のお湯でシャワーを浴び身体の芯まで温めていく
今日進んだ分日程にも余裕が出て那覇はもうすぐそこ。もともと明日は那覇で泊まる予定だったのでチェックアウトギリギリまでゆっくり眠れそうだ…
溜まった疲れを癒すぞぉ
なんて思ってたら

また、いた。
45キロ大雨の中歩いてきたのに
今日見送られたたぴおが、いた。
あれ、俺ほんとに移動したっけ?
ここ、名護?北谷だよね??
神出鬼没の原住民。沖縄恐るべし…
歩行距離 45キロ
沖縄県名護市→北谷町
総歩行距離 3929キロ

今日もブログを読んでくださりありがとうございます!ブログランキングにも参加しているので是非下の日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

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