121日目の今日は石垣のゲストハウスえみっくすで起床

久しぶりに朝から晴れ間が出ている
気持ちよく伸びをして深呼吸
今日はこれからこの旅の最終目的地である与那国島へフェリーに乗船し向かうことになる。フェリーは火曜と金曜の週2便。この時期は欠航も多く今日出港するか心配ではあったが、無事に出港するようだ。
北海道の日本最東端から歩き始めて、目指し続けた日本最西端の地。ONE PIECEで言えばラフテルのような本当に最後の島だ。
出航は午前10時なのでのんびりと準備をしてゲストハウスを出陣
今日の朝飯はもちろん?

【カツ】カレーだ。今日与那国につくのは夕方近くなってしまうのでゴールは明日だが、その前にしっかり験担ぎをしてフェリー乗り場へ向かう
ちなみにフェリー乗り場は他の離島へと繋がる石垣港とは少し離れた与那国へ行くための港へ向かう。他の八重山の離島は安永観光が運営しているのだが、与那国行きだけは福山海運が運営しているのだ。

乗船券を買うと、裏には「旅の証」として与那国島にしかいない世界最大の蛾であるヨナグニサンがプリントされている。ちなみに自転車の時はこれまた与那国が本場のカジキマグロがプリントされていた。
ヨナグニサンは自転車旅で与那国を訪れた時、博物館で運良く羽化したばかりの新成虫を見ることができたんだけど

モスラのモデルともなったその姿はもはや芸術
手のひらより大きく、与那国の言葉で「綾がある蝶」という意味のアヤミハビルと名付けられているが、その通りに美しく幻の蛾だ。
そして午前9時半。フェリーよなくにへ乗船

与那国島は別名「渡難(どなん)の島」と言われるほどに黒潮海流の影響を受ける外海で昔から渡航が難しかった島であり、石垣島からさらに西へ100キロ離れた本当の意味での「最果て」の島だ。
そしてフェリーは離島に向かうフェリーとしてはとても立派で大きなものにも関わらず、そんな荒波を乗り越えていくため今でも「ゲロ船」と呼ばれるほど揺れる船。
船内には

嘔吐専用の洗面台が設置されているほど「ガチ」で危ない船だ。ちなみに自転車旅で乗ったときは夏でまだ北風の影響を受けにくい時期だったにも関わらず洗濯機の中に入れられたみたいにグルングルンに揺れて立つことすらままならなかった。今日は冬で北風の影響も受けて前回より揺れるのだろうなぁ、、、目標は朝食べたカツカレーをリバースしないことにしよう

ちなみに船内はめちゃくちゃ綺麗。4時間の船旅にしてはもったいないほどだ

椅子席も綺麗に整備されているし

寝室も早い者勝ちで使うことができる
そして今日は乗客は10人もいないガラガラ状態なので寝室を占領だ
さすが与那国…昨日の西表島や波照間、竹富島行きのフェリーはめちゃくちゃ混んでたのに、与那国ともなればフェリーも週2で欠航も頻繁ということもあってオフシーズンの今の時期は他の離島とは一線を画す遠い場所なのだろう。行っても帰りのフェリーが欠航で1週間くらい帰れない可能性だってあるしね。
そして午前10時。大きな汽笛とともに最後の島へ向けて船が動き出す。
と同時に寝室に篭り、目を閉じる
本当はずっと海を眺めていたいが、本当に立っていられないほどの揺れになるし、船酔いをする前に眠るのが一番の船酔い対策だと5年間の旅で幾度もフェリーを使って学んでいるのだ(北は北海道礼文島、南は波照間まで数十回は日本中のフェリーに乗ってるからね)
今日も西表島を過ぎたあたりから外海に出て、それと同時に物凄い揺れが襲う。やはり夏よりもひどい揺れで転覆しないか少し心配になるレベルだ。
ひたすら眠ってただ耐え続ける
気づけば時刻は13時半を回り、定刻である14時も迫ってきた。
身体も好調で吐くことはなさそうなので、少し甲板に出るとそこはもう別世界だった
トビウオが飛び交い、それを狙って海鳥が船の周りを旋回する。後ろを見るともう島影は何も見えず、本当に日本の果てに放り出されてしまったかのような不思議な感覚だ。
広大すぎる北海道の大地を歩き始めた時も360度広がる地平線を前に日本の果てに放り出されてしまったかのような気持ちになったが、そこから4000キロを歩いて今、今度は360度広がる水平線を前に同じ気持ちを抱く。
与那国島は日本最西端の島なので、日本の太平洋を西から流れてくる黒潮海流が最初に日本と出会う島でもある。そんな海はまるで人を寄せ付けないかのようにいつも荒れていて、温暖な黒潮海流に360度囲まれる与那国島は多種多様で豊かな生態系を育んでいる。
13時50分。与那国島の島影を目の前に捉えた

大海原にポツンと浮かぶ切り立った崖に囲まれ「絶海の孤島」という言葉がこれほど似合う島は他に無い。
身体の芯から震える。武者震いだろうか。

今確かに、目の前に、目指し続けた日本の果てがあるのだ。ここを目指して4000キロを歩いてきた。そんな島が今そこに、確かに在る。
そして降り立つ

天気は優れないが、きっと明日のゴールには回復しているだろう。そんな気がする。
さて、一周約30キロの与那国島には大きく分けて3つの集落がある

フェリーが降り立ちカジキマグロでも有名な西の久部良
中心的な集落であり、自転車旅の時も泊まった東の祖納
Dr.コトー診療所の舞台となった診療所がそのまま残されている南の比川だ
そしてそんな集落の合間には牧草地帯や断崖の美しい海が広がり、ヨナグニウマという固有種の馬もほぼ野生の状態でそこら辺をうろうろしている。
ちなみにフェリーで降り立った久部良はゴールの日本最西端の地に一番近い集落だが、今日は着く時間も遅く、祖納にてゲストハウスを予約しているのでそのまま東の中心集落祖納へと向かう。
そして明日、いよいよゴールの日本最西端の地へ到達だ。
与那国の地を噛み締めながら、まずは祖納へ歩き始めたが、5キロほど進んでから祖納までの道の途中にある与那国空港にて旅の総仕上げをするため待ち人を待つ。
そいつは今日わざわざ有給を取って、成田空港の始発便に乗って石垣へ、そしてそのまま与那国へと飛行機を乗り継いで最終便の18時20分に与那国へと降り立った。
まぁもう言わなくても分かる人も多いと思うが、相方のタクマだ(一応説明しておくと、去年の徒歩日本縦断で北海道から新潟までの道のりを一緒に歩いてきた相方)
5年間の旅の最後ともなる今年の旅のゴールを見届けてもらうならこいつしかいないと思っていた存在だ。
それでも与那国は日本で一番遠い最果ての島。なんならそこらへんの海外に行くより遠い存在なので、もう社会人になってしまったタクマはちょっとキツイだろうなぁと思いつつ淡い期待も込めて
「もしタイミングが合えば与那国に是非来て欲しい。旅の最後を見届けてくれ」と打診したところ、二つ返事で「おう、行くわ」と返ってきた。
いや本当に「おう、行くわ」のノリで来れるほど近くないんだよ。
でもだからこそ心の底から嬉しかった。
この飾らない、だけど今まで出会った誰よりも溢れる男気が好きだ。
そして定刻通りの18時20分。最果ての地に奴が来た。有視界飛行の与那国空港は欠航も多く、今回も条件付き運航で来れない可能性もある中、そんな状況を跳ね飛ばして、奴が来た。

日本の最果てで、再び役者は揃う。
さぁ行こう、これが最後の冒険だ
歩行距離 7キロ
沖縄県石垣市→与那国町

今日もブログを読んでくださりありがとうございます!ブログランキングも参加しているので是非したの日本一周ボタンを押して応援してください!

最後は相方と。。。
旅の最後は最高の思い出ゴールになりますね
旅の終幕・・・
旅をしていない私まで嬉しいような、寂しいような
胸が締め付けられる思いです 笑
最後まで怪我なく楽しい思い出でありますように…
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