110日目!しれとこはやべぇとこ

110日目の今日もライダーハウスクリオネで起床!天気は曇ってたけど、4日ぶりに雨が降ってない。

雨で停滞していたみんながいよいよ出発しだした。

3日間共に過ごした、気の合うライダーさん達ともいよいよお別れだ

熱い握手をして

行ってらっしゃい!!

このライダーハウスでは凄くいい思い出がたくさん出来た。

みんなでバーベキューして、初めてバイクに乗らせてもらってツーリング連れてってもらって、お酒飲みながら語り合って…

日本全国に友達がまた出来た。

年齢なんて関係ないんだ

合言葉は「この道のどこかで」

旅を続けていればきっとどこかでまた会うだろう。

それまでお元気で。

この道のどこかでまた会いましょう

さぁそろそろ俺も行くか。

目指すは知床、秘境であり世界自然遺産だ。

走りだしてまず目指したのは

「天に続く道」

名前からしてやばいとこだけど

噂によるとまっすぐすぎる道がまるで天に続いてるように見えることから名付けられたらしい

たしかに続いてた

けど曇ってたから微妙だった

それでも綺麗だったから多分晴れてたらそれはもう天に召される綺麗さだったに違いない。

天に続く道を楽しんで

いよいよ知床の玄関口 ウトロに向かう

海はオホーツク海らしい荒れ模様。潮が目にしみて痛い。

途中には「オシンコシンの滝」なる美味しそうな名前の滝があった

すげぇ迫力だった

知床七景の一つらしい

知床の雄大さを感じた。

こんな感じな滝が至る所にあるから驚きだ

ウトロの市街地で昼飯を食って休憩したら、いよいよ世界遺産知床の横断に挑む。

知床を横断してウトロから羅臼側に抜けるためには「知床峠」という峠を越えなければいけない。

標高もかなり高い峠だが、それ以上に今日のコンディションは最悪らしい。濃霧に強風に雨に低温という情報が飛び込んで来た。

でも少しワクワクしてた

3日も停滞してた俺は走りたかったんだ、しかも世界遺産の峠越えときた

燃えないわけがない。

目の前に高い峠があるなら、越えてこそ男だ。

行くぜ知床峠

登り坂が始まってすぐ、国立公園に入った。ここから頂上まで15キロひたすら登り続けなければいけない。

そしてここ知床は世界で一番クマが密集している地域だ。

これが一番怖い。

生身の自転車で遭遇してしまえばなかなかにやばい状況になる。

登り始めて40分ほど。標高300mを越えて

可愛いやつと遭遇した

キタキツネくんだ。

この旅で初めて会った

しばらく一緒の方向に走ってた

ちなみにこの後、今日だけで6匹のキツネにあった。モフモフそうだった

さらに登り続けて、標高500mを越えたあたりで急激に霧が出てきた

あっという間に視界は20m先が見えなくなり、強風が吹き付けた

冷たい風だった。

峠自体の斜度は低く、本来なら登りやすい峠だろうが、今日に限っては地獄だった。

時に強烈な追い風にもなってくれたが、時に向かい風になって全く進まなかった。そして横風になった時は自転車もろとも倒れそうになった。

多分風速は20mに達していた。

気温も8度だった。

そんな中、海パンとノースリーブで男は進んだ、、(これで気合い入れてたけどただの馬鹿だった)

本気で何も見えなかった。

クマがいたって見えるわけない

出会った時には10mの近さじゃないと分からないって状況だ。

最も恐ろしい状況だった、

登れば登るほどさらに寒さと風は増していった。

そして登り始めて1時間24分

ここが頂上かもわからないくらい必死に風と寒さと戦っていたら頂上に辿り着いてた。

頂上の風は凄まじく、台風でも経験したことない風が吹き荒れていた

最大瞬間風速は30mを越えていた

体感温度は5度以下だ。1度って言われても不思議じゃない

足先と指の感覚はなくなっていて

霧で5m先を見るのがやっとだった

3年間の日本一周で初めて

「峠から生きて帰れるかな?」って気持ちが襲ってきた。

実際、あと5分頂上にいたら低体温症になっていただろう。

下山を始めると、さらに強い風が襲ってきた。本気で山を転げ落ちそうだった。本気で死を覚悟した。

自然の怖さを再確認した

自然の強さを再確認した

人間が勝てるわけないんだ

人間なんて本当にちっぽけなんだ

だからこそもっと旅をしたい

都会の恵まれた環境でデッカくなったような気分に浸って、人生を棒に振りたくない。

自然の強さと美しさと怖さに触れれば触れるほど、人間の小ささ、無力さを実感すればするほど、もっと旅をしたくなる。挑戦したくなる。

小さい、豆粒みたいな俺が自転車一つで己の足だけでどこまでいけるか、試してみたくなる。

その先にどんな景色が待ってるか、知りたくなるんだ。

峠越えは辛い。だけど今の連続だ。

辛くても、ペダルを踏む力が無くなっても、前に進むために走り続けなければいけない。誰よりも「今」と向き合って、自分に勝たなければいけない。この一瞬に懸けて誰よりも汗をかいて誰よりも苦しんで頂上を目指す。今が何よりも大切な瞬間だって分かる。心臓が飛び跳ねて、「俺は今生きてる」ってわかる。

そんな峠越えが好きだ

そんなことを改めて実感した知床峠

羅臼側に降り始めると、霧が晴れ始めた。

青空が見えた。嬉しい。ご褒美だ

すげぇ綺麗な緑だった。

ありがとう知床。

最後の最後にありがとう。

無事羅臼側に降りて知床峠を眺めると、厚い雲に覆われていた。

雲に覆われるかどうかでここまで天気が変わるのもやはり自然の偉大さだ。

羅臼側に降りてからは無心でひたすら走った。

というのも羅臼に降りた時点で午後四時に近かったのだが、今日はどうしてもその50キロ先の標津町まで進みたかったのだ。

てことできつい峠越えのあと、さらに無心で50キロ走り抜ける修行をした。

日が沈んできた。

久しぶりに空が焼けてきた。

そして日の入りギリギリに標津町に辿り着いた。今日はここでキャンプする。

明日は色んな旅人にオススメされた開陽台なる絶景スポットに行くために少し内陸に寄り道して、根室を目指したいと思ってる。

じゃあまた明日…

走行距離 120キロ

斜里町→標津町

総走行距離 9006キロ

今年もブログランキングに参加しています!是非下の日本一周自転車ボタンを押して応援してください!

にほんブログ村 旅行ブログ 日本一周(自転車)へ
にほんブログ村

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